Wilderness Archives - Traversing Tasmania

April 19, 2018

Strahan

Reflections © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a lovely town for many reasons. Firstly, the west coast wilderness creeps right up to the edges of the town, giving it a fairy-tale setting. Lovely walks, such as the hike to Hogarth Falls, fall within the town’s boundaries. Secondly, it’s a picturesque port. Boats are anchored against a backdrop of misty wilderness. What a wonderful place!

Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill — Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a town that has seen many a hard time. Originally a piners and miners town, it was formed by sheer grit. The collapse of mining in recent years has meant a new fight for the town’s survival, this time through tourism ventures like Gordon River Cruises. Several industries have stood the test of time: Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a living museum and The Ship that Never Was is Australia’s longest running (and arguably funniest) theatre show.

Gordon River Cruise © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You should visit Strahan for many reasons, the foremost being that there is nowhere else in the world like it. On our first morning in Strahan, we awoke to views of Macquarie Harbour, which is six times as large as Sydney Harbour and approximately one thousand times wilder. On our way to the Gordon River Cruise boat, we watched a historic steam train leave its station across the bay. While waiting for our boat to board, we photographed the still waters and ancient forests before purchasing a morning pick-me-up from The Coffee Shack, a cheerful cafe run by local sisters. I would head back in a heart beat.

Abt Railway, Regatta Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is also the gateway to many a grand adventure. From here, you can arrange an all-terrain vehicle tour of the Henty Dunes, drive on Ocean Beach, sail overnight on the Gordon River, purchase Huon Pine at mates rates, watch Australia’s longest running play, explore World Heritage Listed wilderness or steam up the mighty Abt railway. Alternatively, just stroll around the foreshore to Regatta Point. There is so much to do in Strahan that it is quite tricky to set aside time to just relax!

What to Bring

Customs Offices © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Don’t leave home without your wet-weather gear. Having sturdy walking boots, waterproof pants and a raincoat will allow you to enjoy Strahan no matter how much it rains. There is a well-stocked IGA in Strahan and a petrol station, as well as restaurants, cafes, a take-away shop and the like. However, I always bring some supplies from home too, to keep costs down and to make sure that I have everything I need. Reservations are recommended at restaurants and attractions as you may miss out otherwise. Lastly, bring your Strahan bucket-list (and a realisation that, unless you have a month, you won’t get through it).

Getting There

Fishing Wharf © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is about four and a half hours’ drive from Hobart or four hours’ drive from Launceston. Whichever way you go, the roads can be treacherous as the West Coast receives a lot of rain, which can lead to wet or icy roads, depending on the conditions. Driving from dusk to dawn is not recommended as the wildlife are large and they are at large! It is just not worth it to hit a wombat or a wallaby. Plan to arrive in Strahan at least an hour before dark (otherwise, enjoy a very slow drive…).

Enjoy your visit to Strahan! It truly is a wonderful town and I can’t wait to return. For more things to do on the west coast, read on!

March 24, 2018April 25, 2018

Gordon River Cruise

I’m not a gushy person but the Gordon River Cruise really is something special (that’s the first and last river pun, I promise!). The cruise’s title is something of a misnomer as there are many sights to be seen (Gordon River being the most spectacular though). Here are my highlights.

Macquarie Harbour and Hell’s Gates

As you leave Strahan, stand on the deck. It’s a picturesque town that is quickly subsumed by the vast wilderness surrounding it. As the boat picks up speed, you’ll want to be on the wind (top) deck. Hold onto your hats, folks! It is a wild ride but you’ll have the best views of Macquarie Harbour and it’s actually a lot of fun leaning back into the wind for a free, albeit unpredictable, massage!

Hell’s Gates has to be seen to be believed. You’ll be awed by two convict-built rock walls (very hard labour!), making the narrow channel deep enough for the cruise boat to sail through. Then you’ll see the two lighthouses and the fisherman’s cottages on the far side of Macquarie Heads. Ocean Beach stretches out before you. Again, make sure that you’re on deck for a photo and to drink in the scenery and history.

Petuna Salmon Farms

Petuna Salmon Farm © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There is a lot of controversy about salmon farms in Tasmania due to their environmental impact. I really appreciated seeing a salmon farm up close and hearing about how the farm is run. The backdrop of Macquarie Harbour is stunning. You might even see the resident salmon thieves (seals) raise their heads between the pens. It’s good to see Tasmanian business doing so well globally and hopefully we can soon find solutions to the issues currently faced.

Gordon River

The west coast always impresses on me just how small I am. Sailing through deep, tannin-stained waters, surround by untamed forests, mountain ranges and brooding clouds, I am passing through. Many generations of people have carved out a life in this vast, wild place, the Toogee kinship group (Tasmanian Aborigines) and piners among them. It is humbling.

To be honest, the stop at Heritage Landing was underwhelming. The boat disgorges its passengers who then shuffle around a board-walk circuit. There are some redeeming features of the stop though. For one, the plant life is stunning. Many species are endemic to the west coast of Tasmania. If you’re quick enough, you can make a second lap of the circuit on your own and really enjoy the forest’s delights. If you’d rather take things slowly, one of the crew tells a good yarn on a platform halfway around the boardwalk.

Lady Jane Franklin II © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Back on board, it’s time for lunch. Yummo! We have dietary requirements and were really pleased with the selection of food available for us (you’ll need to ask the crew for specialty items like gluten free bread though). Sit back, relax and enjoy a documentary about the Gordon River piners as you cruise back up the river. If I had my time again, I would spend more time on deck and watch the documentary another time as the opportunity to see the Gordon River is a rare one.

Sarah Island

The Gordon River Cruise is the cruise that just keeps on giving. Sarah Island was unexpectedly brilliant. Naively, I was not anticipating the penal settlement to have left such an imprint. Our guide pointed out the still-visible ship yards, tannery, bakery, penitentiary and so on. The flora is also quite European as the island was initially stripped of native vegetation, leaving it so exposed in the wilds of Macquarie Harbour that a wooden wall had to be built as a windbreak! This is the place that re-offending convicts were taken to. Our guide was one of the actors from ‘The Ship that Never Was’ (a local, famous play) and provided an insightful and entertaining commentary.

What to Bring

Huon Pine © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Tasmania’s west coast is not a place to be fashionable. Although it didn’t rain when we were on the Gordon River Cruise, it is highly likely to as the west coast has 3 to 4 metres of rain per year. Unless you want to be cooped up inside for the entire cruise, bring waterproof pants and a rain jacket. It’s not high fashion but being able to sit on deck while you glide through the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Tasmanian wilderness is something that you shouldn’t pass up, no matter what the weather. It goes without saying that you’ll need to bring your camera. You should also be aware that, although lunch is hearty, there is no morning tea. Bring your own food or bring cash to purchase items on board.

Getting There

Ruins on Sarah Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Gordon River Cruise departs from Strahan, an isolated town on Tasmania’s west coast. You can expect to take over four hours to drive there from Launceston and over four and half hours from Hobart. I highly recommend allowing extra time for stops at the towns on your way. You should also avoid driving between dusk and dawn due to the increased chance of hitting wildlife, which is costly.

Cost

Bonnet Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find two companies who offer the Gordon River Cruise experience. We didn’t know this until we arrived and had already pre-booked a cruise with RACT’s Gordon River Cruises. The other (family-owned) company is World Heritage Cruises. There are slight differences in the timing of the cruises and the experiences offered so do your research and choose the cruise that suits you. Prices for a full Gordon River Cruise currently range from $115 to $160 on World Heritage Cruises and $125 to $240 on Gordon River Cruises with family discounts available from both operators. Both companies also offer “highlights” cruises (varying seasonally). Being able to see a multitude of fabulous locations in Macquarie Harbour and then cruise into a World Heritage Listed area was a priceless experience. I highly recommend saving your pennies for your own place on a Gordon River Cruise.

Read more about my adventures on Tassie’s rugged west coast.

January 14, 2018April 25, 2018

Alum Cliffs

There are two Alum Cliffs in Tasmania: one in the south and one in the north. I visited the latter, which is located near Mole Creek and Chudleigh on the way from Launceston to Cradle Mountain. Listed as one of Tasmania’s “60 Great Short Walks”, the walk to tulampanga (Alum Cliffs) was indeed short and great!

Located in a farming region, the views from between the trees, out over nearby pastures, are rather lovely. I caught a glimpse of the mountains in the distance at one point too. Look around you: A friend saw a falcon in the sky and I spied two gorgeous pink orchids in the bush. There are several interpretive signs to help you better understand the history and significance of the area.

After 20 minutes, including stops for photos, you’ll find yourself at a small staircase. This leads to the Alum Cliffs Lookout. The view that awaits is at once understated and spectacular. It’s a humble view, of the river below and the cliffs opposite, but it’s impressive because of the sharp angles of the Alum Cliffs, especially in contrast with the surrounding bush. Sit a while and enjoy the view.

What to Bring

Alum Cliffs Track © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It really is a short walk to the Alum Cliffs Lookout so you won’t need to bring much with you. That said, weather in Tassie is unpredictable and we have some critters (snakes, ants, spiders) that can make life unpleasant at times so bringing basic first aid supplies and wearing appropriate clothing is a must on any walk in Tasmania.

Getting There

Take the Bass Highway north from Launceston (or south from Devonport), turning onto the B12. Head towards Mole Creek. Shortly after you have passed through the township of Chudleigh, turn right onto Mersey Hills Road. My husband thought that we were lost at this point as the road is narrow and winding. Don’t worry! You will eventually come across a well-signposted carpark on the right-hand side of the road as it takes a sharp bend. You can’t miss it.

Cost

Free, free, free! As this is a reserve, entry to the Alum Cliffs Track is completely free, that is, you don’t need a Parks Pass. Thank you, Parks and Wildlife Tasmania, for providing yet another well-made track, complete with interpretive signs.

While you’re in the area, make sure that you look at the truly gorgeous Mole Creek Caves. Staying a while? Read about my adventures in the surrounding north and north-west areas.

October 11, 2017October 11, 2017

Three Capes Track

Tasman Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Walking the Three Capes Track is a remarkable experience. All at once, you have stunning views, aching muscles, artfully crafted accommodation to look forward to and, in the middle of nowhere, a beautifully designed resting place that tells part of the story of the area. You journey from Port Arthur to Denman’s Cove. From here, you walk 46km over four days from Denman’s Cove to Fortescue Bay, via Cape Pillar, Mount Fortescue and Cape Hauy. It’s incredible. The third cape, Cape Raoul, isn’t yet part of the walk – I am told that, in the future, it will be part of the walk too.

View of Cape Hauy from Cape Pillar © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When you book your Three Capes Track experience, you have choices. You can choose to take the 11:30am boat or the 2pm (1:30pm from May – August) boat. Your ticket to the Three Capes Track includes a two-year pass to Port Arthur Historic Site. You could spend an entire day wandering through the site if you want to. Being locals, we’ve seen it before and were happy with a few hours then the earlier start to our journey. Rather than doing a very, very long post about the entire walk, I’ve written a full post about each day. Here are the links to the full posts, with highlights:

Day 1

Surveyors © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Enjoy complimentary access to Port Arthur Historic Site. Cruise around the bay to the start of the walk. Have a snack on the beach before walking for 1.5 – 2 hours to Surveyors. Incredible views of Cape Raoul and beautiful accommodation await you. Enjoy!

Day 2

View of Mount Brown and Cape Raoul © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Up we go… up Arthurs Peak and Crescent Mountain. You’ll be rewarded with views of Cape Pillar and Cape Raoul. It won’t be long until you’ve made it to your destination: Munro – accommodation on the cliffs! What a fantastic view of Cape Hauy and Hippolyte Rocks! Have a hot shower and read about the wreck of the Nord.

Day 3

Cape Pillar and The Blade. What a highlight! Stunning views of Cape Raoul and Cape Hauy. Directly in front of you stands Tasman Island. The lighthouse, the old tramway, the houses… a bygone era on display in such wild surroundings. Walk back to Munro, pick up your pack and head to Retakunna.

Day 4

The finish line is near. All that remains between you and it is a mountain, Cape Hauy and an aching body. The views, both up close in the rainforest and further afield of the capes, are worth it. Should you walk out to Cape Hauy and back? Yes, you should! Beautiful 360’ views plus the Totem Pole and Candlestick (famous to rock climbers) beneath you make standing at the end of this this cape particularly spectacular. A short walk later, you’re standing by the clear waters of Fortescue Bay, waiting for a bus back to Port Arthur. What an incredible journey!

What to Bring

Cape Raoul from Surveyors © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Pack (one of) each item on the packing list provided by Parks and Wildlife. Remember that, although it is very luxurious, this is a hike and you need to self-cater. Make sure that your rainwear is good quality and covers you from head to ankle and that your boots are worn in. Blisters, bruises and getting wet are annoyances that you just don’t need on a journey like this. For the first night (or two), pack fresh food to enjoy. After this, dehydrated will do. You’ll need some trail mix to keep you going during the day. As a Tasmanian, I’m always devastated when tourists who go bushwalking end up hurt (or worse). Always, always, always carry water, sun protection, a jacket/jumper, rainwear, sturdy footwear, food, a first aid kit and a phone with you, even on short day walks.

What Not to Bring

My aching back reminds me that this section is of particular importance! I would NOT bring any luxury items with me. My mistake was packing a spare change of clothes (you need one outfit plus one contingency for wet/cold weather), a spare towel and small containers of shampoo, conditioner and moisturiser. Despite having a lovely hot shower on Day 2, I didn’t use these items at all. Things I didn’t bring and would strongly advise others not to bring are luxuries like make-up, extra food (you can only eat so much!) and gadgets. Enjoy going bush, in every sense of the word!

Getting There

Pennicott Wilderness Journeys © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Your cruise leaves from Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula. This is 1 hour and 45 minutes’ drive east of Hobart. There are many fantastic spots to explore (or detour to) on the way, including Eaglehawk Neck, Dunalley and Richmond so take your time. Alternatively, arrive early and explore Port Arthur and the Tasman Peninsula like I did. It’s a fantastic area.

Cost

Crescent Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

At $495 per adult ($396 per concession/child), the Three Capes Track experience may seem expensive, but you’ll soon see where your money goes. Firstly, you’ll have a (short) Pennicott Wilderness Journeys Cruise and two-year access to Port Arthur Historic Site. The limit on walkers (48 per hut) means that you can have “alone in the wilderness” experiences. You are treated very gently, from the track underfoot to the thick mattress awaiting you of an evening. Once you’ve seen the rangers (and even the helicopters!) in action, as well as the story starters and some of the trickier sections of the track, you’ll appreciate that it’s a bargain!

For more information about my Three Capes Track experience, read my summaries of Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 or Day 4. Alternatively, read about places to visit on the Tasman Peninsula or in Tasmania’s south.

October 11, 2017October 11, 2017

Three Capes Track: Day 1

View of Cape Pillar © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We set off from Port Arthur: my husband, myself, and, of course, the Ancient Marnier. The first part of your Three Capes Track experience is a boat ride from Port Arthur to Denmans Cove. You’ll motor past Crescent Bay (with it’s amazing sand dunes) and Mount Brown, with views of two of the capes. This is a shortened version of the Pennicott Wilderness Journeys’ Tasman Island Cruise. Up close, we saw a seal, sea caves, and an eagle’s nest. Seeing Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Tasman Island from the water gave us a sense of their grandeur and a taste of what was to come.

Denmans Cove

Landing at Denmans Cove is tricky! The boat pulls up to an isolated cove, backs up to the beach, lowers a ramp and then it’s up to you. Time your descent with the receding wave and commit fully to stepping off the ramp and you won’t get your feet wet! Make sure that your bag is strapped to you before you disembark.

Rest on the beach for a while. This is the only beach you’ll stand on until the end of your journey so make the most of it! After a short stop for lunch, my husband was raring to go so off we went! The track start is just up the river a short way and is obvious. Tasmanian artist Alex Miles has designed stunning pieces that introduce you to the start and finish of the track and to each hut. After a snap with the art, move on to the boot-washing station (it’s straightforward and a vital step in stopping the spread of plant diseases). From here, it’s a climb upwards. Not sure why “15 minutes” is engraved on a bench? Read the book that you were given by staff at Port Arthur.

The Huts

When you reach Surveyors, you won’t believe it. It is superb accommodation. Finely-crafted cabins. A large deck with picture-perfect views of Cape Raoul. Deck chairs (Alex Miles’ designs appear on the fabric). Luxuriously thick mattresses. Drop loos that don’t smell (at least not in Spring-time!). A pellet fire. Bliss! Settle in and enjoy your time in paradise.

For more information about my Three Capes Track experience, read the overview or my summaries of Day 2, Day 3 or Day 4. Alternatively, read about places to visit on the Tasman Peninsula or in Tasmania’s south.

October 11, 2017October 11, 2017

Three Capes Track: Day 2

Each evening, your lovely host ranger (thanks Will, Ken and Joel!) will give you a weather update. This will help you to plan your day on the Three Capes Track. We decided to walk Days 2 and 3 in one go due to poor weather predicted for Day 3. This was a massive day and resulted in a minor injury for me but the views were amazing!

Story Starters

I really enjoyed the story starters on Day 2. You’ll come across wooden wombat poos, a love-nest in the woods and a beautifully sculpted resting place in Ellarwey Valley. Cloud Forest has an intriguing story and reading it on the spot would be a great idea. Your surroundings are very unique! It’s Spring and I really enjoyed the variety of native flowers on the walk between Surveyors and Munro.

Arthurs Peak and Crescent Mountain

View of Cape Raoul and Mount Brown © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I found Day 2 to be the hardest day of the Three Capes Track experience. Your pack is still laden with food and you have to walk up two steep sections: Arthurs Peak and Crescent Mountain. Going up generally means glorious views though and we were not disappointed! Cape Raoul, Mount Brown and the dunes at Crescent Bay were a lovely sight. The Ancient Mariner also spied our previous night’s accommodation, Surveyors, as well as an additional hut that has been built as part of an upcoming gourmet walking experience.

View towards Cape Pillar © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Words of warning for Day 2 and onwards are that you will pass across helicopter routes and near cliffs. These hazards are clearly signposted, with instructions on what to do if you hear a helicopter and the minimum distance between the track and the cliff’s edge. The good news is that the views (downwards, upwards and across!) are stunning and, when you are standing on the track, you feel quite safe.

View of Cape Hauy from Munroe © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When you reach “Four Ways”, as the rangers call it, turn right to Munro, Cape Pillar and The Blade. Have a rest at “High Life” but don’t forget to look up! You may spy an eagle’s nest. Within the hour, you should arrive at Munro, with excellent views from the deck (and helipad) and a welcome hot shower.

For more information about my Three Capes Track experience, read the overview or my summaries of Day 1, Day 3 or Day 4. Alternatively, read about places to visit on the Tasman Peninsula or in Tasmania’s south.