Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

Traversing Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens
The Conservatory
The Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I love Spring. Winter can drag on in Tasmania and Spring is a welcome relief. Yes, it can be cold or wet (or cold and wet!) but the sunshine and flowers cheer me up no end. So, what do you do on a sunny Saturday in Spring? You head to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, that’s what!

Lily Pond
Lily Pond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If, like me, this is your first visit in too long, you’ll notice a few changes. You’ll notice the new “Hub” near the top gate, where you can find assistance, grab a map of the gardens or buy some plants. The lily pond also has a new viewing platform shaped like a series of lily pads. If, like me, the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens brings back a flood of childhood memories, you’ll be pleased to know that the main attractions are still there.

The Fernery
The Fernery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

My first stop is always the lily pond with its beautiful white bridge. There’s many a grand photo to be taken here, particularly in Spring. Next, I head up the hill to the Fernery. My mission as a child was to run up and down the steps around the waterfalls as fast as I could. Now, I just like the serenity.

Floral Clock
Floral Clock © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From here, walk across and then down until you find the floral clock. Look up the hill to the gorgeous arch and then head down the hill to the Rotunda. From here, aim for the gorgeous brick wall. There are toilets to the left or you can head on through to my favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Japanese Gardens
Japanese Gardens © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Japanese Gardens take serene to a whole new level. You’ll find a compact maze of beauty. This part of the garden is set up as a series of “rooms” joined by a series of cascades and ponds. A special treat for us on Saturday was that the resident kookaburra decided to pose in just about every photo I took of the Japanese Gardens!! As a kid, I absolutely loved walking over the wooden boards, watching the waterwheel turn, crossing the red bridge and clambering up Mount Fuji. You can’t do the latter nowadays but you can still view the mountain, if you can find it! On the way back to the main gardens, stop and admire my favourite fountain. Mr. Traversing Tasmania describes it as a plane wreck but I think that it’s fascinating.

Tasmanian Community Food Garden
Tasmanian Community Food Garden © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From here, spy Government House through the trees and head back through the brick wall (further up this time). The Tasmanian Community Food Garden is always interesting to view and is a fabulous idea. Mind you, the garden beds stand where my second-favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens used to be: The Cactus House. The cacti have now been relegated to the back part of the community garden but they are still fascinating to look at.

Sub Antarctic Plant House
Sub Antarctic Plant House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

On your right, you’ll eventually find the Conservatory. The building is beautiful and there is always a lovely display, no matter what the time of year. Before you enter though, head to a less balmy part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. The Sub-Antarctic Plant House is just up the hill from the Conservatory and it is a blast, literally! You’ll feel the climate and admire the fauna of Macquarie Island. Brace yourself!

Archway
Archway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

2018 is the 200th anniversary of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. If you haven’t visited the gardens yet, you should. The variety of plants and programs on offer is fabulous. Or, you can ignore all the scientific names and the events and instead do what any sane child would do: just get lost. Around each corner is something new to discover. It’s like finding the walled garden in The Secret Garden.

What to Bring

Japanese Gardens
Japanese Gardens © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you know your way around and have limited time, you can just about squeeze the best of the Gardens into an hour. If you’d like to take your time and explore everything thoroughly, you’ll need at least two hours. This means that you’ll need to ditch your heels and don your trusty walking shoes. You’ll also need weather-appropriate clothing, sun protection and food and water.

Getting There

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens
Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is next door to Government House on the Royal Domain. It’s about a five-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD towards the Tasman Bridge. Turn left onto Lower Domain Road once you have passed the Aquatic Centre. There’s plenty of parking on site. You’ll also find a small car park just off Domain Highway if you’re travelling to the Gardens from the eastern shore.

Cost

Through the brick wall
Through the brick wall © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is via donation. For a relatively cheap family day out, bring your own picnic gear. If you’re hungry and haven’t come prepared, there is a kiosk (Sprout) or the main restaurant (Succulent) to choose from. You can also purchase botanically themed items from the gift shop or a small range of plants from the new “Hub”. I highly recommend the picnic option if the weather is fine as there’s nothing quite like hunting down the perfect picnic spot in the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Nearby attractions include Government House, the Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s southeast coastmidlands or central highlands or, further afield, northnorth west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

Fossil Cove

Traversing Fossil Cove
Track start
Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of a quiet street in the peaceful bushland south of Kingston is a secluded cove: Fossil Cove. There is no designated car park. A simple wooden sign post marks the start of the track. When we arrived, there was only one other car there. Don’t be fooled by the humble beginnings of your journey: Your destination is spectacular.

Fossil Cove
Fossil Cove © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The track to Fossil Cove is easy to traverse, downhill. You’ll do the hard work on the way back up! There are well-defined stairs. Enjoy strolling through the bush and take time to explore the rock formations beside the track as you descend. I must admit that I rather like seeing the neighbouring properties too. What a place to live! In about fifteen minutes’ time, you’ll find yourself at the top of a staircase, staring out to sea.

Archway
Archway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Many delights await you. There are rock shelves and pools to explore, shells to find and an archway to walk through at low tide to a neighbouring cove. If you enjoy a spot of fishing, there are fish to be caught. When you sit down on one of the rock shelves, don’t be surprised by what lies beneath you.

Fossils

Fossils
Fossils © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It’s easy to understand how Fossil Cove got its name. You’ll see for yourself the varied, intricate, multitude of fossils imprinted on the rock shelves. I could spend a long time admiring them. Fish, shells, from eons ago. Look up at your surroundings too. You’ll see a tree, clinging to the clifftop. There are views of the River Derwent, the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island.

What to Bring

Fossil Cove
Fossil Cove © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Fossil Cove is a short one (approximately 45 minutes return) but do wear sturdy shoes as the track can be muddy. You never know how long you’ll stay exploring so bring some water and a snack. Check the tide times too. Unless you’re prepared to get very wet and walk on slippery rocks, access through the arch is limited to (very) low tide. Leave your usual beach paraphernalia behind and enjoy a different kind of waterside experience!

Getting There

Views
Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Blackmans Bay is a 15-minute drive south of Hobart’s CBD via either Taroona (the scenic route) or the Southern Outlet. Once you’re in Blackmans Bay, head south on Tinderbox Road until you reach Fossil Cove Drive. When you reach the end of the cul-de-sac, park your car beside the road and begin your descent to the majestic Fossil Cove.

Cost

Fossil Cove
Fossil Cove © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Fossil Cove is one of Tassie’s delightful freebies. Pay in kind by staying on the track, taking your litter away with you and leaving the cove’s contents behind for future visitors. Remember to take lots of photos! It is a truly remarkable place.

 

Nearby attractions include Taroona’s Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s southeast coastmidlands or central highlands or, further afield, northnorth west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

Waterworks Reserve

Traversing Waterworks Reserve
Upper Reservoir
Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

kunanyi/Mount Wellington
kunanyi/Mount Wellington © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls
Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

Museum
Museum © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table
Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees
Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

Upper Reservoir
Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9
Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the westnorth, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.