July 2018 - Traversing Tasmania

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.

July 10, 2018July 10, 2018

Highfield House

Have you seen the film The Light Between Oceans? Some of it is filmed in the township of Stanley and in Highfield House, the historic homestead that overlooks the town. Originally built for the wealthy proprietors of Van Diemen’s Land (VDL) Company, the homestead was completed in 1834. VDL traded sheep so the property is surrounded by pastures. Unfortunately, VDL failed as the land isn’t suited to sheep grazing. Fortunately, this means that you can visit this beautifully preserved homestead.

Highfield House is extraordinarily picturesque. Don’t like reading information panels? Take your time admiring the wallpapers, carpets, stonework and furniture. Head outside and there’s even more to take in. The gardens are beautiful. We visited in winter and were surprised by just how colourful the gardens were. Look beyond the house and you’ll see gorgeous views of Stanley and The Nut. Make sure that you have a look at the outbuildings too – they are stunning.

There’s more to Highfield House than just external beauty. The property is of historical importance and is a reminder of a much harder time. You can read about the struggles of VDL and also the hardships caused by the company. The Tasmanian Tiger, which is now extinct, quite liked sheep so VDL participated in its eradication. The company also treated Aboriginal Tasmanians cruelly. Despite the ironic justice, you’ll find some of the company’s own losses confronting. Make sure that you have a look at the master bedroom upstairs and the small remembrance garden outside.

What to Bring

Courtyard © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The house can be a bit cold in winter so rug up. Wear sensible shoes and remember your camera. It really is a photogenic house! There is a gift shop on site but no café. Bring a picnic to eat on the lawns (in summer) or take a short drive to the township of Stanley for a meal.

Getting There

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. There are two ways of getting to Highfield House. Either drive up the hill from Godfreys Beach via Greenhills Road or take an earlier turn up Dovecote Road. I recommend doing the loop, in either direction. Make sure that you stop at all the lookouts on the way. There are three and you’ll love the different views of The Nut and Stanley. When you arrive, you’ll find plenty of parking at Highfield Historic House.

Cost

Outbuildings © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Highfield House is open from 10am – 4:45pm daily. Make sure that you check opening hours on public holidays. You’ll need to set aside about an hour to explore the house and grounds (more if you like to read every single interpretation panel!). You’ll pay $12 per adult with discounts for children and families. The property has EFTPOS facilities. The tours are self-guided, which is rather lovely as you can just pause and take in the views, both inside and outside the house. Enjoy!

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.