Traversing Tasmania Archives - Page 13 of 18

April 29, 2017July 23, 2017

Mount Donaldson

This is Hobbit country. Cross a brook through a mossy rainforest. Pass through tunnels formed by overhanging branches. Climb over and under fallen trees. Watch the leaves stir. Emerge from the forest to see towering white gums. From here, rise above the buttongrass, over streams, through squelching mud, up to the top of the mountain. Now, survey middle earth (with the help of a fallen theodolite, if you please!). You have arrived at the top of Mount Donaldson!

takayna/Tarkine © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I thoroughly enjoyed climbing Mount Donaldson. It was the right mix of a unique environment, an adventurous trail and stunning scenery. I may have complained about my “uphill leg muscles” feeling sore at some stage, but the views were worth it. I say views, because each part of the walk was very beautiful. If your “uphill leg muscles” start complaining, have a rest and then soldier on because the view from the top is absolutely amazing! You can see the Pieman River winding through the trees, the takayna/Tarkine sprawling out below you (listen for a waterfall) and the waves pounding the rocks on the coast. You can also see a silica mine (still operational), the road into Corinna, and mountains to the north, east and south. It is breathtaking!

Emerging from the Clouds © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Be warned: weather on the West Coast of Tasmania is unpredictable. You can experience pouring rain, a hail storm, roaring winds and beautiful sunshine all within half an hour! (We experienced all of this on our cruise on the Arcadia II, which you can read about here). The walk is quite slippery as you near the summit because you are essentially following the path of a few streams. If you have limited mobility or there has been (or will be) a lot of rainfall, I recommend reconsidering doing the walk. Cloud cover can also limit visibility. That said, it was a misty morning when we set out but the sun was shining and the sky was clear by the time we reached the summit. For good measure, it rained as we neared the forest on the way back down! Four seasons in one day.

What to Bring

Pieman River © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It goes without saying that you’ll need waterproof clothes. I found that one layer of merino thermals topped by my raincoat and waterproof pants was all that I needed when I was moving. When you reach the summit, you’ll also want to have your scarf, beanie and gloves on hand. Wear good hiking shoes. We always carry a first aid kit, about a litre of water per person and a good dose of snacks (fruit, nuts, etc.). In summer, don’t forget your hat and sunscreen. You will definitely need your camera; the views are spectacular!

Theodolite © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Your phone won’t have reception on or near Mount Donaldson. If you are worried about not being able to call emergency services, you can hire personal locator beacons and satellite phones from various places in Tasmania before you head to the West Coast. Whatever the case, make sure that you register your walk with the staff at the Tarkine Hotel (Corinna) first.

View of the coast © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Getting There

Towering Gum Trees© emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You can access the walking track to Mount Donaldson either by foot from Corinna (ask for a brochure from the helpful staff at the Tarkine Hotel) or by car. If you’re driving, drive about three kilometres down the Western Explorer (from the Corinna/Savage River end). Take care when driving on the Western Explorer. It is unsealed, rocky and has unexpected turns. When you have crossed a bridge, you’ll see the walking track to the left and a small, circular space where you can park to the right. For information on how to reach Corinna, read my post here.

Cost

Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The walk up to the summit of Mount Donaldson is free of charge. Remember to take your rubbish out with you and keep to the paths. The grey mud is firm enough to step on; avoid the black mud though! It’s very slippery!! It takes about three hours to complete the Mount Donaldson walk if you are fit and don’t have too many stops. If the ground is a bit slippery, plan to take about four hours. Enjoy your time in Hobbit country! We even hummed the “Lord of the Rings” tune as we descended… you’ll see why when you do the walk for yourself!

You can read more about my time in Corinna here. You can also read about my adventures on Tasmania’s West Coast here or North West here.

April 29, 2017July 23, 2017

Arcadia II

The Arcadia II is a beautiful ship. Made from Huon pine with celery top pine decks, she has all the trimmings, including brass fittings and re-purposed seats from Hobart trams. It was a delight just to stand on her, let alone find ourselves motoring up the remote Pieman River, the southern boundary of the takayna/Tarkine.

Lovers Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On your journey upriver, you’ll get to see the sights. You’ll pass the mouths of the Savage and Donaldson Rivers. You’ll see the sedimentary rocks high upon the hills and hear how these were of particular interest to National Geographic. By the end of your journey, you’ll also be able to identify the multitude of species of flora lining the riverbanks. You’ll also pass a waterfall and a set of stairs (which you can climb via a journey on the Sweetwater; read about it here). You’ll see the tip of Mount Donaldson (we climbed it; you can read about that here). It’s a beautiful river journey.

When we disembarked at Pieman Heads, I was thrilled to explore a new place. Except, then I walked off the duckboards and into the area where the shacks are and I realised that I’d been there before. That’s growing up in Tasmania for you! As a child, you go along for the ride and don’t really comprehend just where you are. I had joined a friend’s family for a 4WD trip when I was much younger; it was sensational, to see the rugged West Coast in all her beauty, and we concluded our journey at Pieman Heads. Despite my happy memories, I think that I appreciated Pieman Heads more as an adult.

Wild Waves © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I appreciated the logs strewn across the sand, knowing the force it must have taken to push them there. I appreciated the hail storm, brief but fierce, leaving dents in the sand. I appreciated the sand whipping across the beach like a mist. I appreciated the sound of the waves, roaring at the mouth of the Heads, as I imaged ships of times gone by trying to navigate through the mountainous waves under sail or steam. It’s a wonder that they ever managed to sail through the Heads as they are only navigable for a few days each year. It is a truly wild place.

Go Fetch! © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

What to Bring

Food is provided but it’s a good idea to bring a bottle of water. You can shelter inside the wheelhouse with the captain, in the inside passenger areas or under the awning on the deck. It is cold on the water at any time of year so wear layers. For maximum comfort, remember to bring sun protection in summer and rain protection if wet weather is forecast. On the return journey, we sat on the bow with our legs dangling over the side. In our waterproof clothes, we enjoyed the spectacular scenery through the intermittent showers.

Getting There

To get to the Arcadia II’s dock, follow my directions to Corinna from my post about the town here. Once you’ve reached Corinna, stop at the Tarkine Hotel to pick up your tickets. The dock is straight ahead, next to the Fatman Barge. You can park in the car park to the right while you enjoy your cruise.

Cost

A spot on the Arcadia II costs $90. To book tickets, contact Corinna Wilderness Experience (booking in advance is a must). The cruise departs at 10am and you’ll arrive at the Heads before noon, then leave just after 1pm. The journey concludes back at Corinna by 2:30pm. Your ticket includes includes hot cuppas (which you will need!), cake, fruit and a lunch pack that you can eat at Pieman Heads. Best of all, you have the privilege of experiencing a journey aboard the oldest commercially operating Huon pine vessel and see an incredibly remote and beautiful part of Tasmania.

You can read more about my time in Corinna here. You can also read about my adventures on Tasmania’s West Coast here or North West here.

April 22, 2017September 3, 2017

Cape Queen Elizabeth

While camping on Bruny Island, which you can read about here, we went for a bushwalk. Our destination was Cape Queen Elizabeth and I wasn’t sure what to expect. By chance, we timed our walk at low tide which turned out to be a very good thing!

Big Lagoon © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The walk to Cape Queen Elizabeth begins with a car park and a 4WD track. Although it’s not the most scenic part of the walk, do take the time to admire the flora. It’s beautiful! The 4WD track takes you past the aptly named Big Lagoon which is, well, big! It’s also visible from the tip of Cape Queen Elizabeth so be sure to look out for it. After big lagoon, you’ll continue down the track for a few hundred metres before having a choice to make: beach or bluff? You can only make it across the beach during low tide. We had a quick look at this website to see if it was low tide in Adventure Bay and fortunately it was! We took the walk along the beach.

Rock Formations at Mars Bluff © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

If you can’t quite manage the whole 3 – 4 hour walk to the point of Cape Queen Elizabeth, a good second would be to at least make it to Mars Bluff via Neck Beach at low tide. The rock formations are exceptionally beautiful from the beach! You’ll also have views of Cape Queen Elizabeth from the beach, framed by towering cliffs. Round the first cliff and you’ll find a crevice to explore. This takes you through to another beach. There are caves to explore here, including one that is uniquely rectangular! The water reaches into these caves at high tide so please make sure that you’re well out of the way by then. Rock formations can collapse at any time and you do explore these areas at your own risk.

Mars Bluff Cave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Arch on Bruny Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Another highlight of Mars Bluff, which you’ll find around the next cliff, is the arch. I walked past it without even noticing it at first as it is so huge! It is an imposing natural structure. My husband climbed on top of it. I was content just to walk through it and photograph it! Make sure that you time your walk to coincide with low tide as the arch is unique and worth making the extra effort to see.

View from Cape Queen Elizabeth © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

From the arch, walk to Miles Beach. I didn’t know this at the time, but there is a fisherman’s shack to be seen in the dunes at the eastern end of the beach. While at the eastern end of Miles Beach, take note of the location of a white pole. This is where you’ll need to go if the tide is too high for you to return via the shore. When we walked across it, Miles Beach was littered with crab shells and the sand had been shaped into intriguing patterns by the wind and waves. At the end of Miles Beach, there is another white pole, signalling the start of the walking track to Cape Queen Elizabeth.

Mutton Bird Rookery © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The walking track again leads you through native flora. This time, you’ll see stunning white gums, stands of tea-tree and a mutton bird (short-tailed shearwater) rookery. Make sure that you stay on the track and take your rubbish with you to protect the birds. When you reach a fork in the path, take the left turn (an arrow made from rocks is on the ground to guide you). This takes you up to the tip of Cape Queen Elizabeth.

There are two main vantage points. The lower one affords stunning views of Adventure Bay and Fluted Cape. The higher vantage point gives you views of the rest of Cape Queen Elizabeth, down into a crevasse (take care), and on to the shadowy forms of what must be the Tasman Peninsula!

What to Bring

View of Tasman Peninsula © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As it’s a 3 – 4 Hour walk, you will need to carry at least a litre of water per person, food, sunscreen, a hat, a basic first-aid kit and good walking shoes. From experience, I recommend wearing thick socks and/or bandaging your feet to prevent blisters with newer shoes. I also recommend wearing layers for warmth and taking waterproof gear if rain is forecast. Finally, remember your camera to take some amazing photos! It’s also handy to have your phone with you. I used mine to check tide times and a map of the track on the go.

Getting There

Cape Queen Elizabeth © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For directions to Bruny Island, see my instructions at the bottom of my general post about Bruny Island here. Once you’re on Bruny, head south towards The Neck (follow signs from the ferry for Alonnah and Adventure Bay). Before you reach The Neck, you’ll see Bruny Island Honey on the right. Directly opposite this is the car park for the Cape Queen Elizabeth Walking Track. You know you’ve gone too far if you pass the airstrip.

Cost

There is no cost to walk the Cape Queen Elizabeth Walking Track. Make sure that you take care of the track by taking any rubbish that you see out with you.

To read more of my posts about Bruny Island, click here. For posts about southern Tasmania, click here.

April 22, 2017September 3, 2017

The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground

This week, we camped with a friend on Bruny Island at The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground. We had three days of unseasonably warm weather. The sky was gorgeous, bird-life was plentiful and the sound of the waves crashing against the shore lulled us to sleep.

There’s something wonderful about waking up to bird-calls and sunlight shining through trees. There’s something even more wonderful about strolling down to the beach, watching the sun rise higher and joining the short-tailed shearwaters paddling in the shallows. The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground is right next to Neck Beach, with just the dunes separating the two areas. It is a spectacular piece of coastline.

View from The Neck Lookout to Cape Queen Elizabeth © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We arrived at the camp ground at about 2pm. After we had set up camp, we walked back to The Neck Lookout. We dawdled, taking photographs, admiring the birds, and even stopping for a rest, and it took us about an hour and a half to get there. The Neck Lookout is unique as it is a rookery for both mutton birds (short-tailed shearwaters) and penguins. We could hear the penguins but it became too dark to see them (and we had a long walk back to the campsite). Next time, I’ll take a red-light torch (or even just a piece of red cellophane to put over a standard torch) so that I can see them at night! Make sure that you take care of the penguins by staying on the paths, taking all rubbish with you and not shining bright lights (including camera flashes) in their eyes.

Facilities

The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground has about thirty unpowered sites. When we were there, we shared the camp ground with caravans, campervans, 4WDs with pods on top, and even a cyclist with a tiny tent who was cycling the 60kms to Hobart the next day. It was a nice atmosphere and everyone was very respectful (toilet lid down, quiet at night, sleep-in in the morning… marvellous!).

Day Use Area © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Two pit toilets are available for use in two different locations. This means that the toilets are within easy reach of most sites. When we arrived, there was no running water but water was available the next day. To drink this untreated water, you’ll need to boil it for three minutes at a rolling boil. We brought our own drinking water and just used the water there for washing up. There are two picnic tables and a fireplace for day use. Camp fires are allowed at your site too, although you’ll need to bring your own firewood. I recommend also bringing your own fold up chairs, table and cooker to make cooking and eating at your site that bit more enjoyable.

Getting There

View of Neck Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For instructions on getting to Bruny Island, read my post about the island here. Once you’re on Bruny, head south towards The Neck. Follow signs from the ferry for Alonnah and Adventure Bay. Once you’ve passed The Neck Lookout, you’re close! A few kilometres down the road, you’ll see blue signs to The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground on the left.

Cost

Paddling with Birds © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Camping at The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground costs $10 per site (for two adults) and $5 for each extra adult. We paid $30 for two nights which is an absolute bargain considering the scenery! For up to date prices, see Parks and Wildlife’s information here. Sites are not able to be booked in advance and you will need cash (and a pen) in order to pay the fees via the self-registration box at the camp ground.

To read more of my posts about Bruny Island, click here. For posts about southern Tasmania, click here.

April 16, 2017July 23, 2017

Claredon

Claredon is, as our guide so accurately said, a “happy house”. The gardens are beautiful, the house is grand and the sun was shining brightly today through the leaves of the elm trees.

So much love has gone into Claredon. The house was originally built in 1838 to celebrate the love of James Cox and his second wife, Eliza. They established a merino stud at Claredon. After land grants were split up and the property dwindled in size, the estate became harder to run as a farm. It was sold, first to the Boyes family and then to the Menzies family. The Menzies bred race horses, two of which won the Melbourne Cup. In 1962, Mrs. Menzies gave the property to the National Trust.

Sitting Room © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Claredon has been lovingly restored from a derelict house by the National Trust. The house is currently in good hands. If you visit in the next month, you’ll have the privilege of seeing a private exhibition of paintings, including a painting by John Glover. You’ll also see antiques seated next to modern timber furniture from Launceston’s Design Centre. You’ll even get to sit on some of the precious furniture! Your guide will tell you of Dulux’s upcoming Claredon paint range, which will see the house’s walls restored and repainted. There are many stories of benefactors, such as the Sydney interior designer who refurbished the front two rooms for a private function. All this attention has resulted in a wonderful face-lift for a stately home.

Eliza's Piano — Eliza’s Piano © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

What I like about Claredon is that it is a mix of the old and the new. Eliza’s stunning upright piano sits in back room. The cellar, which was previously filled with sand to counteract poor foundations, smells as musty and old as a convict prison. The upstairs rooms, with their peeling paint and hole-riddled walls, display gorgeous bedroom linens. An upstairs room is also dedicated to ladies’ fashion from the 1830s through to the 1960s. New things grace the house too, such as Michael McWilliams’ painted table, depicting the history of the house and of Tasmania in a stunning and thought-provoking way. Pictures don’t do the intricacy of his work justice. Go and see if for yourself!

Claredon’s gardens are stunning. The walled garden is very peaceful and colourful. There is even a “Secret Garden”-like doorway to the back of the house and outbuildings. Have a look at the original items in the coach house and wool shed. The stone barn is also lovely, albeit dark. Between the stone barn and the wool shed is the Australian Fly Fishing Museum. It was closed when we visited (due to Easter).

Getting There

Michael McWilliams' Table — Michael McWilliams’ Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Claredon is ten minutes’ drive south of Launceston. Follow signs for Launceston Airport, Evandale and then Claredon. If you are heading to Hobart after visiting Claredon, drive to Nile and then on to the Midlands Highway. Evandale is a unique town and you should plan to spend a few hours here too, viewing the buildings, the stores and the art exhibitions. You can read about my day at the Evandale Village Fair and Penny Farthing National Championships here.

Cost

Fashion Collection (Clothes Rack by John Smith) © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Admission to view Claredon is $15 per adult, $10 per concession and free for children under 16. Admission costs include access to the house (with an introduction by a lovely guide), exhibitions, gardens, outbuildings and grounds. Ticket holders also have complimentary access to the Australian Fly Fishing Museum and the Norfolk Plains Heritage Centre. The property is open from 10am – 4pm on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. It is also open on Fridays during summer. For up-to-date opening hours, see the National Trust’s website. There is a tearoom onsite and the house is surrounded by the river (on two sides) and is, reportedly, a good spot for a fish. Bring a picnic lunch or your fishing rod and enjoy an afternoon at Claredon.

To read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s gorgeous Midlands, click here.

April 9, 2017July 23, 2017

Entally House

Sometimes, we forget the treasures that lie in our own backyard. Today, I visited Entally House in Hadspen for the first time. There was only one other couple there while we were visiting the homestead. It was nice to have the place to ourselves but it was also astonishing to hear the other couple say that they, visitors from mainland Australia, had been trying to visit Entally House for five years. Tasmania is a treasure trove.

Verandah — Entally House © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Entally House is a museum and function venue. I attended a wedding at Entally many years ago and was excited to finally view the interior of the homestead for the first time. Inside the house, you’ll find a tasteful array of Victorian furniture. A few pieces of furniture are associated with Entally’s original occupants and many pieces have a connection with the local area. The volunteers have gone to a lot of trouble to produce information sheets for each room. Read the fact sheet on women’s clothing in Victorian times (in the upstairs Governor’s Wing). It’s fascinating!

Victorian Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Entally House has many claims to fame. Its cricket pitch is perhaps the oldest in Australia. Entally also hosted the first known match between an English team and a team of convicts. Unsurprisingly, the convicts won. Further, the homestead also has what is perhaps the oldest surviving Victorian conservatory in Australia. It is a beautiful spot for a photo!

Upstairs — Nursery © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When the volunteer offers you an introductory speech about the family who built Entally, say yes. You’ll hear many interesting stories! Three generations of the Reibey family lived at Entally. First of all, Thomas Haydock Reibey II built Entally House in 1819 and named it after Entally in India. Thomas II was the son of shipping magnets Thomas and Mary Reibey. Mary Reibey is the only convicted felon featured on a country’s currency (our $20 note). The family disgraced themselves in many ways. This said, Thomas II’s son became a respected member of parliament. He even became premier of Tasmania for a year (1876 – 1877) and Entally House therefore had its share of famous visitors.

Entally also had its share of infamous visitors. Convicts lived and worked at the homestead. Have a look at the convict bricks in the kitchen, noting the marks on them. In one of the back sitting rooms, you can view the cellar, visible through a glass panel in the floor. The convicts were locked up here overnight.

Currently, the only occupant of Entally House is Ginge the cat. We were shocked when he bounded up the stairs to join us in the nursery! He’s a friendly cat. Unlike our cat, he doesn’t scratch the furniture. You can see the tide mark (of orange cat fur!) on the library door though.

Getting There

Entry — Entrance © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

To reach Entally House, drive 15 minutes from Launceston towards Devonport. On the Bass Highway, follow signs for Hadspen and then for Entally House. You can visit the homestead from 10am – 4pm everyday except Tuesday and Wednesday and some public holidays. For up to date opening hours, check out Entally’s website. Please be aware that the property can be closed during the winter months for restorations.

Cost

The Tearoom © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll pay $15 per adult, $12 per concession and $35 per family (unlimited children!!) to view Entally House. To see where your money goes, head upstairs to the nursery. On display are several chairs in desperate need of restoration, which is an example of one of 25 restoration projects currently underway. If you’d like to give more towards these, make a donation or buy a cup of tea, biscuit or cold drink from the humble tea room. It has a beautiful view of the conservatory!

A walk through the gorgeous gardens (without viewing the homestead) will cost you $7. If you’re pressed for time, or the homestead is closed for renovations, do the garden tour. You’ll get to see the famous cricket pitch and Victorian conservatory, as well as being able to admire the exteriors of the buildings and the carefully manicured gardens.

View from the Conservatory — The view from the Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

To read more of my journeys in northern Tasmania, click here.