Restaurant Archives - Traversing Tasmania

September 24, 2018

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

The Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I love Spring. Winter can drag on in Tasmania and Spring is a welcome relief. Yes, it can be cold or wet (or cold and wet!) but the sunshine and flowers cheer me up no end. So, what do you do on a sunny Saturday in Spring? You head to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, that’s what!

Lily Pond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If, like me, this is your first visit in too long, you’ll notice a few changes. You’ll notice the new “Hub” near the top gate, where you can find assistance, grab a map of the gardens or buy some plants. The lily pond also has a new viewing platform shaped like a series of lily pads. If, like me, the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens brings back a flood of childhood memories, you’ll be pleased to know that the main attractions are still there.

The Fernery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

My first stop is always the lily pond with its beautiful white bridge. There’s many a grand photo to be taken here, particularly in Spring. Next, I head up the hill to the Fernery. My mission as a child was to run up and down the steps around the waterfalls as fast as I could. Now, I just like the serenity.

From here, walk across and then down until you find the floral clock. Look up the hill to the gorgeous arch and then head down the hill to the Rotunda. From here, aim for the gorgeous brick wall. There are toilets to the left or you can head on through to my favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

The Japanese Gardens take serene to a whole new level. You’ll find a compact maze of beauty. This part of the garden is set up as a series of “rooms” joined by a series of cascades and ponds. A special treat for us on Saturday was that the resident kookaburra decided to pose in just about every photo I took of the Japanese Gardens!! As a kid, I absolutely loved walking over the wooden boards, watching the waterwheel turn, crossing the red bridge and clambering up Mount Fuji. You can’t do the latter nowadays but you can still view the mountain, if you can find it! On the way back to the main gardens, stop and admire my favourite fountain. Mr. Traversing Tasmania describes it as a plane wreck but I think that it’s fascinating.

From here, spy Government House through the trees and head back through the brick wall (further up this time). The Tasmanian Community Food Garden is always interesting to view and is a fabulous idea. Mind you, the garden beds stand where my second-favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens used to be: The Cactus House. The cacti have now been relegated to the back part of the community garden but they are still fascinating to look at.

Sub Antarctic Plant House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

On your right, you’ll eventually find the Conservatory. The building is beautiful and there is always a lovely display, no matter what the time of year. Before you enter though, head to a less balmy part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. The Sub-Antarctic Plant House is just up the hill from the Conservatory and it is a blast, literally! You’ll feel the climate and admire the fauna of Macquarie Island. Brace yourself!

2018 is the 200^th anniversary of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. If you haven’t visited the gardens yet, you should. The variety of plants and programs on offer is fabulous. Or, you can ignore all the scientific names and the events and instead do what any sane child would do: just get lost. Around each corner is something new to discover. It’s like finding the walled garden in The Secret Garden.

What to Bring

If you know your way around and have limited time, you can just about squeeze the best of the Gardens into an hour. If you’d like to take your time and explore everything thoroughly, you’ll need at least two hours. This means that you’ll need to ditch your heels and don your trusty walking shoes. You’ll also need weather-appropriate clothing, sun protection and food and water.

Getting There

You’ll find the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is next door to Government House on the Royal Domain. It’s about a five-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD towards the Tasman Bridge. Turn left onto Lower Domain Road once you have passed the Aquatic Centre. There’s plenty of parking on site. You’ll also find a small car park just off Domain Highway if you’re travelling to the Gardens from the eastern shore.

Cost

Through the brick wall © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is via donation. For a relatively cheap family day out, bring your own picnic gear. If you’re hungry and haven’t come prepared, there is a kiosk (Sprout) or the main restaurant (Succulent) to choose from. You can also purchase botanically themed items from the gift shop or a small range of plants from the new “Hub”. I highly recommend the picnic option if the weather is fine as there’s nothing quite like hunting down the perfect picnic spot in the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Nearby attractions include Government House, the Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.

August 13, 2017January 14, 2018

Cataract Gorge Reserve

Launceston’s Cataract Gorge Reserve (“The Gorge” to locals) is a unique place. Carved out by the mangana lienta (South Esk River), the gorge is a stunning, dolerite landscape. The south side of the river is a dry forest and is accessible via the Zig Zag Track (for hikers). The north side resembles a rainforest and has a sealed path. The Gorge is a popular area for walking, picnics, swimming (in summer) and spending time with family and friends.

We parked at Kings Bridge and walked on the sealed path to the Cliff Grounds. This walk is very picturesque. You first encounter the bridge, an entryway and then a house that seems to cling to the cliff. Artists in residence live here. Along the pathway, there are many sights to see, including native flora, rapids and a hut made by two local gentlemen in the mid-1900s. It is a peaceful walk. You can also take a short cruise up the river.

As we entered the Cliff Grounds, we saw three wallabies. They are beautiful creatures and were very tame. Please do not feed them processed food as doing this can cause lumpy jaw. I highly recommend that you read Parks and Wildlife’s information on interacting with wild animals. It is just as satisfying to take a photograph from a distance. These wallabies were very good posers!

The Cliff Grounds were “beautified” by locals in the late 1800s. They built pathways and the gorgeous Victorian structures that are dotted about The Gorge, including the rotunda. This now contains information about the history of the Gorge and Cliff Grounds. Near the rotunda, you’ll find the path to the Gorge Scenic Chairlift. This boasts the longest span in the world! I’ll have to ride it next time I visit but ran out of time today.

There are several species of trees to admire, including approximately seventy native species. There are also seventy species of native birds to admire. Although they are introduced species, there is something wonderful about walking beneath towering maples, oaks and elms. There are also plenty of peacocks to entertain you (I grew up with peacocks so I’m not so fond of them!). I spotted three peacocks on the roof of the restaurant when we left the Cliff Grounds. The Gorge Restaurant is open daily from 9am and a kiosk is also open during the day.

From the Cliff Grounds, head downhill, following signs for The Basin Walk. This will lead you across a small footbridge (with no rails) from which you can admire the rapids, the First Basin and the suspension bridge. It’s a short walk from here to the Basin Cafe, above which is the other end of the chairlift. The Cafe has an excellent view. It is situated above an amenities block, which is designed to cater for summer swimmers.

In summer, you’ll find lovely clean water in the pool and life guards to boot. Locals also swim in the First Basin, but this is not recommended due to the submerged rocks and the depth. It is about 20 metres deep, although I have been told that the bottom hasn’t yet been located… I was brave enough to get in on a hot day some years ago, albeit with a pool noddle for safety!

From the Basin Cafe, walk towards the suspension bridge, along an unsealed path. Built in 1940, the Alexandra Suspension Bridge is very elegant and the views up and down river from it are stunning. Some people (including me!) will swing the bridge from side to side as they walk across it. If you don’t like heights, wait until you’re the only one around before crossing. A short distance from the bridge, climb the set of stairs leading up to a viewing platform. Again, the view is wonderful.

Getting There

Cataract Gorge Reserve is about a 15 – 30 minute walk from Launceston’s CBD. Paid parking (or free street parking if you are prepared to walk a little further) is available just off Basin Road in West Launceston. Limited free parking is available near the Cliff Grounds (Trevallyn) and limited paid parking is available near Kings Bridge at Penny Royal Adventures or on the street.

Cost

It does not cost anything to explore Cataract Gorge Reserve or to swim in the pool (when it is open in summer). You can also use the public barbecues, picnic areas, amenities and playground equipment for free. We brought a picnic lunch with us. Alternatively, purchase lunch from the Basin Cafe or book a table in The Gorge Restaurant. Cataract Gorge Reserve is a very special place. Enjoy your visit!

Want more ideas about what else to do nearby? Read about my experience Cataract Gorge Cruises and my adventures in Tassie’s north and midlands.

August 6, 2017September 3, 2017

Mersey Bluff Reserve

Last week, I visited the lovely Mersey Bluff Reserve. Dubbed “The Bluff” by locals, it has a rugged beauty, excellent facilities and is a significant location in punnilerpunner country. In summer, Mersey Bluff Reserve is crowded with swimmers, diners, children playing on the playground and people walking or running by. In winter, I arrived to find a man wheeling a car tyre past the playground and saw approximately fifteen people across the entire reserve. Everyone who stayed away because of the rain missed out though.

When you arrive at Mersey Bluff Reserve, you’ll see a giant playground, a beach, and a fascinating building, which houses the amenities and eateries. I recommend having a bite to eat here as the view is superb. Walk north along the beach and you’ll see a cement track. This leads you around The Bluff. It is a short but stunning walk. On a sunny day, at the right time, you’ll even see The Julie Burgess about (this is how I first learnt that she existed!) or The Spirit of Tasmania sail past.

View of Bass Strait © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

One of my friends recently told me that she loves to go to the beach in winter. Now I understand why! I have never seen the water so wild before. Waves pushed up to the cement barrier on the beach. They pounded the cliffs and surged through the rocks. I stood at one lookout and watched the water pour in and out of a crevice for about five minutes. It was amazing!

Memorial © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I followed a father and his two sons around the track. One of the boys asked his father to read him a plaque. His father read out a poignant statement about a man who died in 1929 trying to save a little girl. Near the lighthouse, there is another plaque about a man who died more recently, again, trying to save someone else. For the sake of others, please swim only at the beach and not near the cliffs.

The lighthouse is testament to the perils of The Bluff and of Bass Strait. It is a rather gorgeous red and white striped lighthouse, perched on the cliffs overlooking Bass Strait. You first see it from a lookout just off the walkway. You cannot climb the lighthouse but admiring it from the outside is good enough.

As you walk back down the hill, you’ll see two things: a caravan park and Tiagarra. This is no accident, as a sign at Tiagarra, an Aboriginal Cultural Centre, points out: “Wherever there is a caravanpark or campsite on the ocean or rivers it is likely to be built on an Aboriginal living site, as they are in the best positions to stay in the seasons”. Tiagarra means “to keep” and is one of the oldest Aboriginal Keeping Places in Australia. Take time to read the poetry printed on the windows and to look for petroglyphs (carvings) on the rocks near the lighthouse. Tiagarra is open by appointment for groups of ten or more.

Getting There

Devonport is about one hour’s drive north of Launceston on the Bass Highway and about half an hour east of Burnie. When you arrive in Devonport, head to the city centre. From here, follow Victoria Parade. This then turns into Bluff Road. There is plenty of car parking at The Bluff. If you’re keen on exercise, there is a cycling and walking track that runs alongside the river from the city to The Bluff. It is rather picturesque!

Cost

There is no cost to visit Mersey Bluff Reserve or to walk around the base of the lighthouse. If you make an appointment to visit Tiagarra (with a group of ten or more), you can purchase craft and artworks. Alternatively, buy some food at one of The Bluff restaurants or have a picnic at one of the picnic tables. I’ve always enjoyed visiting The Bluff and, as my winter visit proved, the loop walk around the coast is worth doing at any time of year.

Staying in Devonport? Read about my visits to Home Hill, Bass Strait Maritime Centre or The Julie Burgess. Passing through? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s nearby north west or north.

July 23, 2017July 23, 2017

Spirit of Tasmania

The easiest way to travel to Tasmania is via aeroplane. On a clear day, you’ll see stunning aerial views of the state and of the stretch of water separating it from mainland Australia. This bird’s-eye-view of Bass Strait gives you no idea of its breadth . It is not. To fully experience Bass Strait, take a ride on the Spirit of Tasmania.

The two Spirit of Tasmania vessels sail between Port Melbourne and Devonport. They ferry people, pets, vehicles and freight containers. In winter, there are generally sailings every day except Sunday. In summer, day sailings are also available. Both Spirit of Tasmania I and II have restaurants, bars, a reading room, a tourism hub, a playground, a cinema, and so on.

I like the night sailings and my first priority is to be out on deck while the sun is still up. There are many ways to get to the outside decks and I recommend choosing one that isn’t too crowded and faces the sunset. After this, head to Tasmanian Market Kitchen for a meal (dietary requirements are catered for). On Deck 9, you’ll find live music from a talented Tasmanian act. I’m not one for a late night when I know that I’ll be woken up very early so I tend to head to bed after half a set.

Melbourne © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You have a choice about how you will spend your night on the Spirit of Tasmania. You can either sleep in a recliner or a cabin. My husband tells me that the recliners are awful but they are much cheaper and other people swear by them. I like space, my own bathroom and lying flat to sleep so it’s an inside cabin for me. For a slightly higher price, you can book a cabin with a porthole (not worth it on a winter night sailing though!). When you get out into Bass Strait, there are waves, very large waves. If you suffer from motion sickness, make sure that you take your medication! Let yourself be rocked to sleep.

Getting There

Devonport is about an hour’s drive north of Launceston on the Bass Highway. From Hobart, it will take you about three and a half hours (four hours including a stop) to get to the ferry terminal. Once your reach the outskirts of Devonport, follow blue signs for the ferry. The ship begins loading passengers two and a half hours prior to departure (boarding closes 45 minutes before the ship leaves). In Devonport, I recommend enjoying the view from the other side of the Mersey River and taking a bit of time before boarding.

Western Gate Bridge © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The easiest way to reach the ferry terminal in Melbourne is via the toll roads. You can pay for the toll in advance here. If you are averse to paying tolls, make sure that you leave plenty of time to find your way. I try to arrive at Port Melbourne at least two hours before boarding commences. Parking nearby is limited but you can generally find a two-hour spot and walk along the shore for a while before boarding.

What to Bring

Tasmanian Market Kitchen — TMK © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You cannot access the vehicle decks after the ship’s departure. Pack an overnight bag with warm clothes (for out on the deck), toiletries, snacks and medication. Food is available for purchase on board the ship. Due to Tasmania’s strict quarantine regulations, you cannot bring fresh fruit and vegetables, plants or meat/fish with you.

Cost

Prices vary according to seasons. There are two methods for booking. Method One: book well in advance so that you get the sailings that you want. Method Two: wait for a last-minute special (but risk missing out on a sailing altogether). Either way, I recommend signing up for the Spirit of Tasmania mailing list so that you’re aware of upcoming specials. If you are taking a ute or 4WD, make sure that you account for the height of your load when booking your tickets.

Enjoy your journey to Tasmania! While you’re in Devonport, why not visit Home Hill (a prime-ministerial home) or sail on The Julie Burgess? If you just need a good feed, go to Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory or Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm. For more ideas for your Tassie adventures, read my posts about what to do in Tassie’s north, north west, south, west coast, east coast and midlands.