Stanley

The Nut and Stanley
Little penguin colony
Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

The Angel's Share
The Angel’s Share © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat
Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

Highfield House
Highfield House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Tatlows Beach
Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach
Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

Bicheno

Traversing Bicheno
Diamond Island
Diamond Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bicheno is a beautiful little town on Tasmania’s East Coast. I spent many a summer holiday in the town as a child. Within the town boundaries, you can shop for Tasmanian goodies, eat fresh seafood, have a decent coffee, swim, surf, dive, fish, climb to several vantage points, see Little Penguins, stand on the edge of a blowhole, or walk over a sandbar to an island. And that’s not an exhaustive list by any means! Bicheno packs a punch!

Waubs Bay
Waubs Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

My favourite thing to do in Bicheno is to swim. Although I am a true Tasmanian, it is winter and I don’t have a wetsuit, so we did my second favourite thing: walk. There are several tracks around Bicheno, including a lovely, albeit uneven, foreshore track. From the centre of Bicheno, you can walk to many different places.

Waubs Beach
Waubs Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It is very short walk to Waubs Beach, a small but gorgeous place. In summer, this is where the surf lifesaving club operates. This weekend, we saw people on paddleboards, in kayaks and even going for a swim (in wetsuits, of course!). Bicheno is famous for its annual ocean swim. Australia’s famous Olympic swimmer, Shane Gould, heads up a swimming group and it may have been just this group that we spotted! The day before we arrived, whales were seen swimming nearby too. Whales are regularly seen offshore from July to November.

Wauba Debar's Grave
Wauba Debar’s Grave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On the shore, you’ll find a memorial to the Merchant Navy and the grave of the bay’s namesake. This is one of the most important graves in Tasmania as it once held the remains of Wauba Debar, a Tasmanian Aboriginal lady who won the hearts of locals at a time when racism and sexism were at their worst. Shamefully, her remains were removed for scientific study in the late 1800s but she is still remembered here with her original grave site and stone.

The Gulch
The Gulch © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Further south along the coast, you’ll find The Gulch. This is a small waterway and wharf protected from the elements by two Islands. On the other side of the islands lies the Governor Island Marine Reserve. This is one of the world’s best temperate dive locations, with over fifteen species inhabiting the small area. Seals can sometimes even be seen on nearby Alligator Rock. For a fantastic view of The Gulch, head to Whaler’s Lookout.

Bicheno
Bicheno © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The track to Whaler’s Lookout starts from Foster Street and is well signposted. We found a track winding up from the end of James Street but it is not for the faint hearted! At the top of the hill, you’ll find two lookouts. Whaler’s Lookout looks over the township and is so named because Bicheno was originally a whaling town. You can read about this awful yet fascinating history on the information board at the lookout. From Whaler’s Lookout, keep walking on the loop track and you’ll find another lookout, this time over The Gulch. It’s a lovely view!

A short walk south, either via the streets or the foreshore track, is the Blow Hole and Rice Pebble Beach, which you can read about here. A longer walk North along the foreshore track is the surf beach, Red Bill, and the town’s most famous attraction: Diamond Island. The island is famous for its penguin colony and its accessibility via a sandbar. You can read about my visit to Diamond Island here.

Getting There

Bicheno
Bicheno © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bicheno is on Tasmania’s East Coast. It is about ten minutes’ drive north of Freycinet and one hour’s drive south of St Helens. From Hobart, it will take you approximately two and a half hours via the Tasman Highway. Bicheno is just over two hours’ drive from Launceston via Campbell Town or St Mary’s. You can also take the longer route via St Helens and Bay of Fires. Wherever you’re driving from, add on an extra hour or two for stops. Its the East Coast. You see something you really want to stop for approximately every ten minutes.

Cost

Red Bill Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Understandably, the cost of accommodation is much less in the off-season (over winter). That said, there truly is something for everyone, ranging from tent sites to caravans to luxury B&Bs. As far as attractions go, you can spend the big bucks on scenic flights and cruises in nearby Freycinet or you can do what we did and just walk around Bicheno. It is such a fascinating and beautiful place!

Diamond Island
Diamond Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There is much more that I could write about Bicheno. We bought veggies from a local market, had a delicious piece of gluten and dairy free slice from The Farm Shed – East Coast Wine Centre and hope to return soon so that we can do the many things that we missed out on this time. Next time you head to the East Coast, don’t forget to visit the small but brilliant town of Bicheno.

You can read more about my adventures on Tasmania’s East Coast here.

Diamond Island

Traversing Diamond Island
Diamond Island
Diamond Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When I was a child visiting Bicheno, one of the most special things we did was walk out to Diamond Island. This was a real treat because walking over a sandbar is fun and because, back then, even when the tide was low you tended to get wet. After a recent storm, the sandbar is now much bigger (or at least, it seems so to me!). I was a little bit worried that we wouldn’t make it to the island as low tide occurred at 5am. We arrived at Red Bill Beach at about 8:30am and found a wide, dry strip of sand to walk on. What a treat!

Swift Parrots
Swift Parrots © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Diamond Island is a very special place because you can walk out to it. Also, it is basically a giant Little Penguin rookery. You can find the rare, small Swift Parrot here (we saw a pair!). The island has the fiery lichen-covered rocks that are unique to the East Coast and it has large, beautiful rock pools. You might even see a pair of pelicans like we did. As you can see, it would be shorter to make a list of reasons NOT to visit Diamond Island.

Sand Bar
Sand Bar © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

One reason not to visit Diamond Island is if you don’t think that you can make it back across. You do NOT want to be stuck on the island for 12 hours. It will get dark and cold and the penguins would rather be left alone. Another reason not to visit Diamond Island is if you have your dog with you. They are not allowed in the reserve.

Penguin Rookery
Penguin Rookery © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As the island is a penguin rookery, there are no paths (except those made by the penguins). Do not step on the greenery! You don’t want to be responsible for a penguin home invasion. To be sure that you’re not treading somewhere that you shouldn’t, stay on the rocks. Traversing the island will take a little bit of thinking and leaping this way. It’s quite fun!

Getting There

Pelicans
Pelicans © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For information on Bicheno and how to get there, read this post. Once you’re in Bicheno, walk or drive to Red Bill beach, the surf beach near Diamond Island. It’s about a ten-minute walk (at a reasonable pace) from the car park and along the beach to Diamond Island. When planning your visit, check the tide times and make sure that you leave plenty of time to get back off the island on the same tide.

Cost

View of Bicheno
View of Bicheno © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Unless you are fined for walking on the penguin rookery, there is no cost to visit Diamond Island. Remember to stay on the rocks and take any rubbish with you. The views of and from Diamond Island are beautiful. Take your camera and a sense of adventure and you’ll have a great time.

Read more of my adventures on Tasmania’s East Coast here.

The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground

Traversing Neck Beach

This week, we camped with a friend on Bruny Island at The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground. We had three days of unseasonably warm weather. The sky was gorgeous, bird-life was plentiful and the sound of the waves crashing against the shore lulled us to sleep.

Sunrise
Sunrise © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There’s something wonderful about waking up to bird-calls and sunlight shining through trees. There’s something even more wonderful about strolling down to the beach, watching the sun rise higher and joining the short-tailed shearwaters paddling in the shallows. The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground is right next to Neck Beach, with just the dunes separating the two areas. It is a spectacular piece of coastline.

View from The Neck Lookout to Cape Queen Elizabeth
View from The Neck Lookout to Cape Queen Elizabeth © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We arrived at the camp ground at about 2pm. After we had set up camp, we walked back to The Neck Lookout. We dawdled, taking photographs, admiring the birds, and even stopping for a rest, and it took us about an hour and a half to get there. The Neck Lookout is unique as it is a rookery for both mutton birds (short-tailed shearwaters) and penguins. We could hear the penguins but it became too dark to see them (and we had a long walk back to the campsite). Next time, I’ll take a red-light torch (or even just a piece of red cellophane to put over a standard torch) so that I can see them at night! Make sure that you take care of the penguins by staying on the paths, taking all rubbish with you and not shining bright lights (including camera flashes) in their eyes.

Facilities

The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground
The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground has about thirty unpowered sites. When we were there, we shared the camp ground with caravans, campervans, 4WDs with pods on top, and even a cyclist with a tiny tent who was cycling the 60kms to Hobart the next day. It was a nice atmosphere and everyone was very respectful (toilet lid down, quiet at night, sleep-in in the morning… marvellous!).

Day Use Area
Day Use Area © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Two pit toilets are available for use in two different locations. This means that the toilets are within easy reach of most sites. When we arrived, there was no running water but water was available the next day. To drink this untreated water, you’ll need to boil it for three minutes at a rolling boil. We brought our own drinking water and just used the water there for washing up. There are two picnic tables and a fireplace for day use. Camp fires are allowed at your site too, although you’ll need to bring your own firewood. I recommend also bringing your own fold up chairs, table and cooker to make cooking and eating at your site that bit more enjoyable.

Getting There

View of Neck Beach
View of Neck Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For instructions on getting to Bruny Island, read my post about the island here. Once you’re on Bruny, head south towards The Neck. Follow signs from the ferry for Alonnah and Adventure Bay. Once you’ve passed The Neck Lookout, you’re close! A few kilometres down the road, you’ll see blue signs to The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground on the left.

Cost

Paddling with Birds
Paddling with Birds © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Camping at The Neck Game Reserve Camp Ground costs $10 per site (for two adults) and $5 for each extra adult. We paid $30 for two nights which is an absolute bargain considering the scenery! For up to date prices, see Parks and Wildlife’s information here. Sites are not able to be booked in advance and you will need cash (and a pen) in order to pay the fees via the self-registration box at the camp ground.

To read more of my posts about Bruny Island, click here. For posts about southern Tasmania, click here.