Parks and Wildlife Archives - Traversing Tasmania

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.

July 10, 2018July 10, 2018

Highfield House

Have you seen the film The Light Between Oceans? Some of it is filmed in the township of Stanley and in Highfield House, the historic homestead that overlooks the town. Originally built for the wealthy proprietors of Van Diemen’s Land (VDL) Company, the homestead was completed in 1834. VDL traded sheep so the property is surrounded by pastures. Unfortunately, VDL failed as the land isn’t suited to sheep grazing. Fortunately, this means that you can visit this beautifully preserved homestead.

Highfield House is extraordinarily picturesque. Don’t like reading information panels? Take your time admiring the wallpapers, carpets, stonework and furniture. Head outside and there’s even more to take in. The gardens are beautiful. We visited in winter and were surprised by just how colourful the gardens were. Look beyond the house and you’ll see gorgeous views of Stanley and The Nut. Make sure that you have a look at the outbuildings too – they are stunning.

There’s more to Highfield House than just external beauty. The property is of historical importance and is a reminder of a much harder time. You can read about the struggles of VDL and also the hardships caused by the company. The Tasmanian Tiger, which is now extinct, quite liked sheep so VDL participated in its eradication. The company also treated Aboriginal Tasmanians cruelly. Despite the ironic justice, you’ll find some of the company’s own losses confronting. Make sure that you have a look at the master bedroom upstairs and the small remembrance garden outside.

What to Bring

Courtyard © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The house can be a bit cold in winter so rug up. Wear sensible shoes and remember your camera. It really is a photogenic house! There is a gift shop on site but no café. Bring a picnic to eat on the lawns (in summer) or take a short drive to the township of Stanley for a meal.

Getting There

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. There are two ways of getting to Highfield House. Either drive up the hill from Godfreys Beach via Greenhills Road or take an earlier turn up Dovecote Road. I recommend doing the loop, in either direction. Make sure that you stop at all the lookouts on the way. There are three and you’ll love the different views of The Nut and Stanley. When you arrive, you’ll find plenty of parking at Highfield Historic House.

Cost

Outbuildings © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Highfield House is open from 10am – 4:45pm daily. Make sure that you check opening hours on public holidays. You’ll need to set aside about an hour to explore the house and grounds (more if you like to read every single interpretation panel!). You’ll pay $12 per adult with discounts for children and families. The property has EFTPOS facilities. The tours are self-guided, which is rather lovely as you can just pause and take in the views, both inside and outside the house. Enjoy!

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

June 10, 2018

The Nut

The Nut. An awe-inspiring volcanic plug. A stunning backdrop for photos of Stanley. A pleasant stroll? Listed as one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, the hike up to the top is no mean feat! With views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape, Table Cape and Highfield House, The Nut will quite literally take your breath away.

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Nut is a unique rock formation in the town of Stanley, north west Tasmania. It rises 143 metres and is a little bit like Uluru: a giant rock that appears seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Originally named Circular Head (which is now the name of the surrounding region), it was possibly called The Nut after its Tasmanian Aboriginal name, munatrik, or perhaps because not even explosives could make a dent in it.

What’s up there? You’ll find a circuit track, a Parks and Wildlife reading room, Stanley trig point and a surprising array of flora and fauna. My favourite way to do the 2.3 km circuit is to head left through the button grass first. I love to gaze out at Bass Strait and pinmatik/Rocky Cape National Park.

As you begin to go around the opposite side, you’ll have views of Smithton, Tatlows Beach, Stanley, and even directly down to the fisherman’s wharf. You’ll find fenced lookouts and plenty of benches to sit on. The most unexpected sight is a forested fairy-tale grove, replete with pademelon and even picnic tables to sit on and enjoy the serenity. You won’t want to leave!

What to Bring

Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes for climbing up and down The Nut. You’ll need a small bottle of water too. There are picnic tables at the top (turn right onto the circuit path if you want to reach them faster) so you could bring some food with you. We generally just walk the circuit, take in the views and then descend to Stanley.

Getting There

Views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Drive for two and a half hours from Launceston along the Bass Highway. Stanley is well-signposted. When in Stanley, you can drive to The Nut via Browns Road (accessed via Marshall Street or Harrison Terrace). There is ample parking at the base of The Nut. Alternatively, you can park in Church Street and walk to The Nut directly from town, via a pathway between 50 and 54 Alexander Terrace.

Cost

Tatlows Beach and beyond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is free and fabulous exercise to walk up The Nut. The chairlift runs in the warmer months. Prices are $16 return and $10 one way for adults. For children, you’ll pay $10 return and $5 one way. Note that the chairlift is closed over winter and can close at any time of the year due to poor weather. If you have health issues that affect your mobility, walking up and down The Nut might be a bit taxing. I would recommend waiting for a non-winter, calm day on which to take the chairlift instead. Whichever way you ascend The Nut, you’ll be glad you’ve made the effort. The Nut’s geology, flora, fauna and views are incredible. Enjoy!

Want more information? Do another of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. Visit, in person or vicariously, Tasmania’s north west, west coast or north. Travelling further afield? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands.

January 14, 2018April 25, 2018

Alum Cliffs

There are two Alum Cliffs in Tasmania: one in the south and one in the north. I visited the latter, which is located near Mole Creek and Chudleigh on the way from Launceston to Cradle Mountain. Listed as one of Tasmania’s “60 Great Short Walks”, the walk to tulampanga (Alum Cliffs) was indeed short and great!

Located in a farming region, the views from between the trees, out over nearby pastures, are rather lovely. I caught a glimpse of the mountains in the distance at one point too. Look around you: A friend saw a falcon in the sky and I spied two gorgeous pink orchids in the bush. There are several interpretive signs to help you better understand the history and significance of the area.

After 20 minutes, including stops for photos, you’ll find yourself at a small staircase. This leads to the Alum Cliffs Lookout. The view that awaits is at once understated and spectacular. It’s a humble view, of the river below and the cliffs opposite, but it’s impressive because of the sharp angles of the Alum Cliffs, especially in contrast with the surrounding bush. Sit a while and enjoy the view.

What to Bring

Alum Cliffs Track © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It really is a short walk to the Alum Cliffs Lookout so you won’t need to bring much with you. That said, weather in Tassie is unpredictable and we have some critters (snakes, ants, spiders) that can make life unpleasant at times so bringing basic first aid supplies and wearing appropriate clothing is a must on any walk in Tasmania.

Getting There

Take the Bass Highway north from Launceston (or south from Devonport), turning onto the B12. Head towards Mole Creek. Shortly after you have passed through the township of Chudleigh, turn right onto Mersey Hills Road. My husband thought that we were lost at this point as the road is narrow and winding. Don’t worry! You will eventually come across a well-signposted carpark on the right-hand side of the road as it takes a sharp bend. You can’t miss it.

Cost

Free, free, free! As this is a reserve, entry to the Alum Cliffs Track is completely free, that is, you don’t need a Parks Pass. Thank you, Parks and Wildlife Tasmania, for providing yet another well-made track, complete with interpretive signs.

While you’re in the area, make sure that you look at the truly gorgeous Mole Creek Caves. Staying a while? Read about my adventures in the surrounding north and north-west areas.

December 26, 2017December 27, 2017

Freycinet Adventures

The Hazards © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Recently, we celebrated our wedding anniversary by kayaking into Freycinet National Park with Freycinet Adventures. It was remarkable, bobbing around in the bay and staring up at the Hazards. A lunch stop at a hidden waterfall sealed the deal: I’d do this again!

Our guide was very friendly and knowledgeable. At the start of your journey, you’ll receive tips for paddling well as well as the usual safety drills. Traveling in a double-kayak, you’ll depart from Muirs Beach (Coles Bay) and paddle past Picnic Island to Freycinet National Park. In the right season, whales and seals may surface. Your guide will stop the group at several points to discuss the history of the area, including the pink granite quarry.

You’ll alight at a hidden cove for a cup of tea and a snack (provided by Freycinet Adventures). The cove houses a gorgeous waterfall. From here, you’ll paddle past Freycinet Lodge and Richardsons Beach. Here, your guide will take a photo of you with the marvellous Hazards in the background. Finally, you’ll sail through the boats moored off Coles Bay on your trip back to Muirs Beach.

What to Bring

View of Picnic Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We did the half-day kayak trip. Wear bathers. While Freycinet Adventures have a policy of “on the water, not in the water”, your bottom will get wet at some point and bathers are much more comfortable! On cooler days, wear polypro or merino thermals for warmth, remembering that it is colder on the water. You’ll be provided with a fleece jacket and a wetsuit skirt. Bring your camera as there’ll be lots of chances for taking photos! Dry bags are provided for storing your electronics. A cuppa and biscuit is also provided for morning tea.

Getting There

Your trip departs from Muirs Beach at the western end of Coles Bay. We booked online but you could also book via Freycinet Adventures’s office, which is located near Muirs Beach. There is no need to head to the office if you have already booked your trip. Just turn up at the beach! Coles Bay is just over two hours’ drive from Launceston via the Midlands and Lake Leake Highways. From Hobart, it’s about a two and a half hour drive via the Tasman Highway. Give yourself plenty of extra time for stops along the way.

Cost

Freycinet National Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

In 2017, you’ll pay $98 per adult and $88 per child for the half day tour, which last for approximately three hours. Two and three day tours are also available. Booking online is very straightforward. Payment is processed after your trip in case the trip needs to be cancelled due to poor weather conditions. I’m sure that many a local will scoff at paying for the privilege of kayaking but the staff at Freycinet Adventures make your trip memorable (and not too much hard work!). Included in the cost is your outer layer (fleece jacket and wetsuit skirt), morning or afternoon tea and entry into Freycinet National Park. Of course, use of the kayaks and paddles is included. We had a fabulous time!

For tips on what to do nearby, read my posts about Tasmania’s east coast. If you’re happy to take a longer journey to your destination, I’ve had many an adventure in Tasmania’s south, midlands and north. Happy travels!

October 11, 2017October 11, 2017

Three Capes Track

Tasman Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Walking the Three Capes Track is a remarkable experience. All at once, you have stunning views, aching muscles, artfully crafted accommodation to look forward to and, in the middle of nowhere, a beautifully designed resting place that tells part of the story of the area. You journey from Port Arthur to Denman’s Cove. From here, you walk 46km over four days from Denman’s Cove to Fortescue Bay, via Cape Pillar, Mount Fortescue and Cape Hauy. It’s incredible. The third cape, Cape Raoul, isn’t yet part of the walk – I am told that, in the future, it will be part of the walk too.

View of Cape Hauy from Cape Pillar © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When you book your Three Capes Track experience, you have choices. You can choose to take the 11:30am boat or the 2pm (1:30pm from May – August) boat. Your ticket to the Three Capes Track includes a two-year pass to Port Arthur Historic Site. You could spend an entire day wandering through the site if you want to. Being locals, we’ve seen it before and were happy with a few hours then the earlier start to our journey. Rather than doing a very, very long post about the entire walk, I’ve written a full post about each day. Here are the links to the full posts, with highlights:

Day 1

Surveyors © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Enjoy complimentary access to Port Arthur Historic Site. Cruise around the bay to the start of the walk. Have a snack on the beach before walking for 1.5 – 2 hours to Surveyors. Incredible views of Cape Raoul and beautiful accommodation await you. Enjoy!

Day 2

View of Mount Brown and Cape Raoul © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Up we go… up Arthurs Peak and Crescent Mountain. You’ll be rewarded with views of Cape Pillar and Cape Raoul. It won’t be long until you’ve made it to your destination: Munro – accommodation on the cliffs! What a fantastic view of Cape Hauy and Hippolyte Rocks! Have a hot shower and read about the wreck of the Nord.

Day 3

Cape Pillar and The Blade. What a highlight! Stunning views of Cape Raoul and Cape Hauy. Directly in front of you stands Tasman Island. The lighthouse, the old tramway, the houses… a bygone era on display in such wild surroundings. Walk back to Munro, pick up your pack and head to Retakunna.

Day 4

The finish line is near. All that remains between you and it is a mountain, Cape Hauy and an aching body. The views, both up close in the rainforest and further afield of the capes, are worth it. Should you walk out to Cape Hauy and back? Yes, you should! Beautiful 360’ views plus the Totem Pole and Candlestick (famous to rock climbers) beneath you make standing at the end of this this cape particularly spectacular. A short walk later, you’re standing by the clear waters of Fortescue Bay, waiting for a bus back to Port Arthur. What an incredible journey!

What to Bring

Cape Raoul from Surveyors © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Pack (one of) each item on the packing list provided by Parks and Wildlife. Remember that, although it is very luxurious, this is a hike and you need to self-cater. Make sure that your rainwear is good quality and covers you from head to ankle and that your boots are worn in. Blisters, bruises and getting wet are annoyances that you just don’t need on a journey like this. For the first night (or two), pack fresh food to enjoy. After this, dehydrated will do. You’ll need some trail mix to keep you going during the day. As a Tasmanian, I’m always devastated when tourists who go bushwalking end up hurt (or worse). Always, always, always carry water, sun protection, a jacket/jumper, rainwear, sturdy footwear, food, a first aid kit and a phone with you, even on short day walks.

What Not to Bring

My aching back reminds me that this section is of particular importance! I would NOT bring any luxury items with me. My mistake was packing a spare change of clothes (you need one outfit plus one contingency for wet/cold weather), a spare towel and small containers of shampoo, conditioner and moisturiser. Despite having a lovely hot shower on Day 2, I didn’t use these items at all. Things I didn’t bring and would strongly advise others not to bring are luxuries like make-up, extra food (you can only eat so much!) and gadgets. Enjoy going bush, in every sense of the word!

Getting There

Pennicott Wilderness Journeys © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Your cruise leaves from Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula. This is 1 hour and 45 minutes’ drive east of Hobart. There are many fantastic spots to explore (or detour to) on the way, including Eaglehawk Neck, Dunalley and Richmond so take your time. Alternatively, arrive early and explore Port Arthur and the Tasman Peninsula like I did. It’s a fantastic area.

Cost

Crescent Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

At $495 per adult ($396 per concession/child), the Three Capes Track experience may seem expensive, but you’ll soon see where your money goes. Firstly, you’ll have a (short) Pennicott Wilderness Journeys Cruise and two-year access to Port Arthur Historic Site. The limit on walkers (48 per hut) means that you can have “alone in the wilderness” experiences. You are treated very gently, from the track underfoot to the thick mattress awaiting you of an evening. Once you’ve seen the rangers (and even the helicopters!) in action, as well as the story starters and some of the trickier sections of the track, you’ll appreciate that it’s a bargain!

For more information about my Three Capes Track experience, read my summaries of Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 or Day 4. Alternatively, read about places to visit on the Tasman Peninsula or in Tasmania’s south.