The Ship That Never Was is Australia’s longest running theatre show. You can watch it every night at 5:30pm in Strahan. The play is performed by The Round Earth Company and was written by historian Richard Davey about the fate of The Frederick. This was the last ship that was built by convicts in the shipyards at nearby Sarah Island. Historic? Yes. Boring? No way! I haven’t laughed so hard in a long time! This play is a masterpiece.
I thought that a historic story would be a little dated, perhaps even snooze-inducing, but our convicts were entertaining rapscallions. In the hands of a gifted writer, their lives are a comedic tragedy. The Ship That Never Was is a poignant, laugh-out-loud tale that simultaneously allows you to experience part of Macquarie Harbour’s history. You’ll be on the edge of your seat, waiting to hear what happened to our intrepid crew.
I found the actors highly entertaining. A two-person troupe, they engage the audience at every step. You never know – you might even be one of the stars of The Ship That Never Was! One of the two actors was our guide the following day on our tour of Sarah Island (as part of the Gordon River Cruise) and showed us the shipyards where part of the play is set.
You’ll be amazed by the set of The Ship That Never Was. We walked past the Richard Davey Amphitheatre earlier in the day, peered in and couldn’t really make sense of it. I would tell you what happens but it’s rather lovely to watch it coming together (and breaking apart) for yourself.
The Ship That Never Was is performed in the Richard Davey Amphitheatre in summer (September to May) and runs as a film at the Risby Cove Theatrette in winter (June to August). Both venues are located on The Esplanade in Strahan and are a few minutes’ drive apart. There are coverings over the bleachers in the amphitheatre so you’ll be perfectly comfortable in the outdoor arena, even if the weather isn’t great. There is free parking at Risby Cove but paid parking only near the Richard Davey Amphitheatre (unless you’re happy to take a short walk uphill).
To see the summertime live performance, you’ll pay $25 per adult, $20 per concession, $12.50 per student and $2.50 per child (4 – 12 years old). Prices are much cheaper to see the film in winter. You can find up-to-date pricing here. You may think that this is expensive but it really isn’t. I would be VERY surprised if you didn’t want to go back the following night for a second viewing! I wanted to. Bring cash to purchase one of the interpretive booklets at the end of the play. It was wonderful to be a small part of Australia’s theatre history for an evening.
Staying a while? Read more about my adventures in Strahan and on the west coast.
Strahan is a lovely town for many reasons. Firstly, the west coast wilderness creeps right up to the edges of the town, giving it a fairy-tale setting. Lovely walks, such as the hike to Hogarth Falls, fall within the town’s boundaries. Secondly, it’s a picturesque port. Boats are anchored against a backdrop of misty wilderness. What a wonderful place!
Strahan is a town that has seen many a hard time. Originally a piners and miners town, it was formed by sheer grit. The collapse of mining in recent years has meant a new fight for the town’s survival, this time through tourism ventures like Gordon River Cruises. Several industries have stood the test of time: Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a living museum and The Ship that Never Was is Australia’s longest running (and arguably funniest) theatre show.
You should visit Strahan for many reasons, the foremost being that there is nowhere else in the world like it. On our first morning in Strahan, we awoke to views of Macquarie Harbour, which is six times as large as Sydney Harbour and approximately one thousand times wilder. On our way to the Gordon River Cruise boat, we watched a historic steam train leave its station across the bay. While waiting for our boat to board, we photographed the still waters and ancient forests before purchasing a morning pick-me-up from The Coffee Shack, a cheerful cafe run by local sisters. I would head back in a heart beat.
Strahan is also the gateway to many a grand adventure. From here, you can arrange an all-terrain vehicle tour of the Henty Dunes, drive on Ocean Beach, sail overnight on the Gordon River, purchase Huon Pine at mates rates, watch Australia’s longest running play, explore World Heritage Listed wilderness or steam up the mighty Abt railway. Alternatively, just stroll around the foreshore to Regatta Point. There is so much to do in Strahan that it is quite tricky to set aside time to just relax!
Don’t leave home without your wet-weather gear. Having sturdy walking boots, waterproof pants and a raincoat will allow you to enjoy Strahan no matter how much it rains. There is a well-stocked IGA in Strahan and a petrol station, as well as restaurants, cafes, a take-away shop and the like. However, I always bring some supplies from home too, to keep costs down and to make sure that I have everything I need. Reservations are recommended at restaurants and attractions as you may miss out otherwise. Lastly, bring your Strahan bucket-list (and a realisation that, unless you have a month, you won’t get through it).
Strahan is about four and a half hours’ drive from Hobart or four hours’ drive from Launceston. Whichever way you go, the roads can be treacherous as the West Coast receives a lot of rain, which can lead to wet or icy roads, depending on the conditions. Driving from dusk to dawn is not recommended as the wildlife are large and they are at large! It is just not worth it to hit a wombat or a wallaby. Plan to arrive in Strahan at least an hour before dark (otherwise, enjoy a very slow drive…).
Enjoy your visit to Strahan! It truly is a wonderful town and I can’t wait to return. For more things to do on the west coast, read on!
I’m not a gushy person but the Gordon River Cruise really is something special (that’s the first and last river pun, I promise!). The cruise’s title is something of a misnomer as there are many sights to be seen (Gordon River being the most spectacular though). Here are my highlights.
As you leave Strahan, stand on the deck. It’s a picturesque town that is quickly subsumed by the vast wilderness surrounding it. As the boat picks up speed, you’ll want to be on the wind (top) deck. Hold onto your hats, folks! It is a wild ride but you’ll have the best views of Macquarie Harbour and it’s actually a lot of fun leaning back into the wind for a free, albeit unpredictable, massage!
Hell’s Gates has to be seen to be believed. You’ll be awed by two convict-built rock walls (very hard labour!), making the narrow channel deep enough for the cruise boat to sail through. Then you’ll see the two lighthouses and the fisherman’s cottages on the far side of Macquarie Heads. Ocean Beach stretches out before you. Again, make sure that you’re on deck for a photo and to drink in the scenery and history.
There is a lot of controversy about salmon farms in Tasmania due to their environmental impact. I really appreciated seeing a salmon farm up close and hearing about how the farm is run. The backdrop of Macquarie Harbour is stunning. You might even see the resident salmon thieves (seals) raise their heads between the pens. It’s good to see Tasmanian business doing so well globally and hopefully we can soon find solutions to the issues currently faced.
The west coast always impresses on me just how small I am. Sailing through deep, tannin-stained waters, surround by untamed forests, mountain ranges and brooding clouds, I am passing through. Many generations of people have carved out a life in this vast, wild place, the Toogee kinship group (Tasmanian Aborigines) and piners among them. It is humbling.
To be honest, the stop at Heritage Landing was underwhelming. The boat disgorges its passengers who then shuffle around a board-walk circuit. There are some redeeming features of the stop though. For one, the plant life is stunning. Many species are endemic to the west coast of Tasmania. If you’re quick enough, you can make a second lap of the circuit on your own and really enjoy the forest’s delights. If you’d rather take things slowly, one of the crew tells a good yarn on a platform halfway around the boardwalk.
Back on board, it’s time for lunch. Yummo! We have dietary requirements and were really pleased with the selection of food available for us (you’ll need to ask the crew for specialty items like gluten free bread though). Sit back, relax and enjoy a documentary about the Gordon River piners as you cruise back up the river. If I had my time again, I would spend more time on deck and watch the documentary another time as the opportunity to see the Gordon River is a rare one.
The Gordon River Cruise is the cruise that just keeps on giving. Sarah Island was unexpectedly brilliant. Naively, I was not anticipating the penal settlement to have left such an imprint. Our guide pointed out the still-visible ship yards, tannery, bakery, penitentiary and so on. The flora is also quite European as the island was initially stripped of native vegetation, leaving it so exposed in the wilds of Macquarie Harbour that a wooden wall had to be built as a windbreak! This is the place that re-offending convicts were taken to. Our guide was one of the actors from ‘The Ship that Never Was’ (a local, famous play) and provided an insightful and entertaining commentary.
Tasmania’s west coast is not a place to be fashionable. Although it didn’t rain when we were on the Gordon River Cruise, it is highly likely to as the west coast has 3 to 4 metres of rain per year. Unless you want to be cooped up inside for the entire cruise, bring waterproof pants and a rain jacket. It’s not high fashion but being able to sit on deck while you glide through the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Tasmanian wilderness is something that you shouldn’t pass up, no matter what the weather. It goes without saying that you’ll need to bring your camera. You should also be aware that, although lunch is hearty, there is no morning tea. Bring your own food or bring cash to purchase items on board.
The Gordon River Cruise departs from Strahan, an isolated town on Tasmania’s west coast. You can expect to take over four hours to drive there from Launceston and over four and half hours from Hobart. I highly recommend allowing extra time for stops at the towns on your way. You should also avoid driving between dusk and dawn due to the increased chance of hitting wildlife, which is costly.
You’ll find two companies who offer the Gordon River Cruise experience. We didn’t know this until we arrived and had already pre-booked a cruise with RACT’s Gordon River Cruises. The other (family-owned) company is World Heritage Cruises. There are slight differences in the timing of the cruises and the experiences offered so do your research and choose the cruise that suits you. Prices for a full Gordon River Cruise currently range from $115 to $160 on World Heritage Cruises and $125 to $240 on Gordon River Cruises with family discounts available from both operators. Both companies also offer “highlights” cruises (varying seasonally). Being able to see a multitude of fabulous locations in Macquarie Harbour and then cruise into a World Heritage Listed area was a priceless experience. I highly recommend saving your pennies for your own place on a Gordon River Cruise.
Read more about my adventures on Tassie’s rugged west coast.
Macquarie Heads are the headlands that meet at Hell’s gates, the narrow, shallow entrance of Macquarie Harbour. There are loud quad bikes, dirt-bikes and 4WDs everywhere, combined with a crisscross of kids and fishing rods. If you’ve seen the classic Australian film The Castle, you’ll be saying, “Ah, the serenity!” with a smile on your face. Noisy neighbours aren’t your only problem either. As we were walking back from the beach, a tiger snake (that’s a bad one, folks!) silently slithered away from the path. So… don’t go to Macquarie Heads? Well, actually, it was fantastic.
Strangely for the west coast, which has an average of 2.4 metres of rain each year, it was a fabulously sunny day. Many took the opportunity to go fishing. A few keen people went for a swim. I was content to paddle and gaze at the view of the harbour, ringed by mountains, and the lighthouses.
There are two gorgeous white lighthouses at Macquarie Heads. These have helped sailors to navigate the narrow, shallow passage into the harbour for many years. You’ll also see three fisherman’s cottages (inaccessible by road but apparently available as holiday rentals, accessed via boat). If you know where to look, you can just make out the two rock walls that were created by convicts in the 1800s in an effort to keep the channel deep enough and safe enough to sail through. It’s a photographer’s delight!
It’s the west coast so you’ll need your sunscreen, sunhat, beanie, scarf, gloves and your wet-weather gear. If you’re planning on staying for a few hours or longer, I’d recommend bringing your rod and tackle and trying your hand at catching lunch. You’ll also need to bring your own food, water and firewood (if fires are permitted at the time of year that you visit).
Macquarie Heads is about a twenty-minute drive from Strahan on Macquarie Heads Road. You’ll see clear signs from Strahan. The road is partly sealed, partly dirt and is very picturesque with more views of Macquarie Harbour as well as pine forests. Once you reach the campsite, keep driving until you reach the final car park. You can also drive your 4WD onto the beach if the conditions are right (see my post on Ocean Beach for more on beach driving). Ask locals to show you the best entry to the beach (one is extremely sandy and best avoided).
Macquarie Heads is free to visit for the day. You’ll find the best smelling bench-seat dunny (toilet) and glorious views. To camp, you’ll pay a small fee but have the benefits of grassed sites, a caretaker, a boat ramp and those views. Next time you’re in Strahan, take the time to see a very historic, very picturesque part of Macquarie Harbour.
Read more about my adventures on Tasmania’s wild west coast.
