Launceston Archives - Traversing Tasmania

June 5, 2018

Tasmania Zoo

Pygmy Marmoset © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There’s something lovely about Tasmania Zoo. Primarily, it’s the location, on a gorgeous bush block. I also enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and the ingenuity of the play equipment and fences. With one set of my grandparents being animal activists, animals in cages can make me uneasy but I’d visit Tasmania Zoo again – they’re doing good work there.

Nestled in the rolling hills that ring the Meander Valley, Tasmania Zoo has stellar views of the Great Western Tiers. You might want to just stand in the carpark and look west for a while. It’s beautiful. When you finally do enter the zoo, it’s surrounded by native bushland. All of this makes for a tranquil setting.

Wildlife © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you enter Tasmania Zoo, you’ll be greeted by friendly staff. I highly recommend booking an animal encounter along with your entry ticket. The extra dollars paid just to hold a wombat, for example, might seem pricey but you won’t regret it when you have that bundle of furry goodness in your arms! The friendliness continues with a welcome “Hello!” from a resident cockatoo. You might even find yourself standing next to a wallaby, like we did! It’s a very welcoming environment.

Playground © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Sustainability is clearly a focus for the staff at Tasmania Zoo. Barriers have been made from recycled gas bottles and tyres. Our friends’ kids loved the tractor tyre cum roundabout in the playground! I found myself simultaneously admiring the animals and inventiveness of some of the enclosures.

Sentry Duty © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Animals. That’s why we go to zoos. Standouts for me were the meerkats, the pygmy marmosets and the Tasmanian devils. Time your visit right and you’ll get to see the meerkats fed as you enter and the devils fed as you leave (or vice versa). As always with a good zoo, you’ll come away understanding more about the animals. As an eagle circled overhead and the guide explained meerkat behaviour, I understood why these cute critters stand to attention in high places – they’re on sentry duty.

Jurassic Swamp Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few other features of Tasmania Zoo that it would be remiss of me not to mention. They have a lovely array of farm animals, for instance. They also have dinosaurs… large, plastic dinosaurs! The Jurassic Swamp walk is a bit weird, to be honest, with screeching reptilian noises blasting at you from hidden speakers, but I enjoyed the walk nonetheless! Tasmania Zoo also play an active role in conserving several species that are endangered or threatened, including the Tasmanian devils.

What to Bring

Flat out with the Tassie devils! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather appropriate clothing: hats in summer; raincoats in the wet; woollies in the winter. You’ll also need sturdy shoes because you’ll be on your feet all day and you’re out and about in dusty or muddy areas too. Bring your own water bottle and snacks so that you can enjoy a cheaper day and not have to rush back to the cafe every time you get the munchies.

Getting There

Meerkats © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tasmanian Zoo just outside of Riverside in northern Tasmania. From Launceston, head to the West Tamar Road/Highway then take a left onto Ecclestone Road, continuing until you reach the zoo. It’ll take you about 25 minutes to drive from Launceston’s CBD to Tasmania Zoo. Alternatively, there are back-roads from the Bass Highway that you can take if you are travelling from Devonport.

Cost

Tassie Devil © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For your $28 per adult (16+), $15 per child and $25 per concession, you’ll receive access to the zoo including its free barbeque facilities, playground and jumping pillow. You could also opt to pay $17.50 per child for a lovely catered birthday party (minimum group sizes apply). I highly recommend paying the $20 extra for an animal encounter! There’s also a café and a gift shop or you can bring your own food and fun. It’s not a cheap day out for a family but it is one that you’ll remember for a long time. I have not yet forgotten the sound of a Tassie devil eating a chook!!! I have many pleasant memories too and I look forward to returning to Tasmania Zoo in the future.

Enjoyed the read? Read more about my travels in Tassie’s north, north west, midlands or central highlands. Travelling further afield? I’ve also traversed Tasmania’s east coast, south and west coast.

May 20, 2018December 11, 2018

Tailrace Park

River Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is such a delight to find one of Tasmania’s hidden gems. This is, admittedly, a very small gem but it is beautiful nonetheless. And it is hidden. Even Google maps haven’t discovered it yet, or at least not the boardwalk part of it! I’ve been out to Tamar Island several times but what I didn’t realise is that there is another boardwalk that leads you out onto the Tamar River. The Tailrace Park has its own version, allowing you to emerge from the dense tree-line onto the river proper.

As the name suggests, Tailrace Park is located next to a tailrace, this one from the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. I find the tailrace itself fascinating and beautiful. First, you’ll see a recently constructed embankment beneath the road. The turbulence of the tailrace eroded the previous embankment away, such is the force of moving water. Next, you’ll spy a yacht or two as well as pelicans. We talked to someone who spotted a seal in the water just after we had visited. I guess it’s a great place for a seal spa bath!

When you reach Tailrace Park proper, keep left (you’ll need to head around the boatshed though) and you’ll find the boardwalk. This leads through the scrub and trees to a picnic table with more views of the tailrace. Walk on and you’ll find yourself on the river’s edge. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the place where the bush meets the water. This part of the river reminds me of the west coast.

Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also spot some lovely sights such as the new Silos Hotel (if you look hard!) and the old shipyards. Both speak of Launceston’s past as a port. You’ll understand, when you look down at the deep mud beneath your feet, that the port’s heyday was always going to end at some point.

At the end of the boardwalk, you’ll emerge back into Tailrace Park. I must admit that I was tempted to have a go on the very tall slide. If you’ve brought some snags, you can cook them on one of the Rotary sponsored public barbecues.

Getting There

You’ll find Tailrace Park on West Tamar Road, opposite the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. It is about 5 – 10 minutes’ drive from Launceston’s CBD or a leisurely one hour walk. There is ample on-site free parking.

Cost

Free parking, barbeques, picnic tables, a park, slides, a boardwalk, wildlife, river views… You’ll have a lot of fun for zero cost at Tailrace Park. My only regret was that I had to leave! Enjoy one Tasmania’s lovely free parks.

Read on for more adventures in Tassie’s north, midlands or north-west or take your journey one step further and cruise the Tamar River. Looking for another free, short walk? Try nearby Cataract Gorge Reserve or Tamar Island.

September 3, 2017September 3, 2017

Corra Linn

Blessington Road © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

This is my 50th post about a Tasmanian experience or place. I spent a long time contemplating where to go, what to do, but all these plans were laid to waste when, unexpectedly, a friend introduced me to his favourite place in Launceston.

The best thing about living in Tasmania is when you find gems: a person you’ve never met, food you’ve never tasted, a place you’ve never seen. This week, I visited Corra Linn for the first time. Although I’d heard plenty about it (as a favourite spot with locals for a summer swim), I had no idea how spectacular it would be.

The entry to Corra Linn is unobtrusive. Park in a gravel area to the side of the road. Climb over the roadside barrier. Find the part of the fence where the barbed wire is rolled over and climb over the fence. Mind the broken bottles and the cow pats. Now comes the best part: look up.

Corra Linn is a gorge on the North Esk River. Towering cliffs guard a waterhole, patches of sand, rapids and rock falls. My friend tells me that one of the rock falls had occurred very recently due to ice expanding inside the rock. The area would certainly be a geologist’s paradise! I’m sure that rock climbers enjoy it too. The gorge is a magnificent contrast to the surrounding paddocks.

Water hole's edge — Water’s edge © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

In winter, Corra Linn is a beautiful spot to sit and contemplate. I’m told that it’s a great place for swimming in summer, however, take care as there are submerged and falling rocks. Ownership of Corra Linn has been unclear in the past and therefore the area is not well maintained. There are no safety barriers or signs and the gorge has not been developed. It is a wild place, worth the visit just for its natural beauty.

Getting There

The gorge is about 15 minutes’ drive from Launceston or Evandale. Your navigation system may have alternate spelling (Corra Lynn). Note that Corra Linn Distillery is actually a good 15 minutes’ drive away so don’t use this as a reference point! Instead, search for 292 Blessington Road, St Leonards.

Cost

Entry to Corra Linn is free but at your own risk. Enjoy the beauty of wild Tasmania!

Staying in the area for a while? Read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s north and midlands.

August 27, 2017

National Automobile Museum of Tasmania

The National Automobile Museum of Tasmania is an unexpected gem. Filled with an ever-changing display of privately owned special interest vehicles, there is sure to be something to catch your eye. This weekend, entry is free and there is a display of vehicles outside. Yesterday, this included a vintage firetruck. Today, bike rides are on offer! Inside the museum, the delights continued.

1968 Aston Martin DBS Vantage © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Have you ever seen a Bond car in person? I have! Although it may not have been the best Bond movie, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service did feature a stunning car. Until October 2017, you can see this car, complete with guns in the glove-box, at the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania. The display also features other “movie stars”, including Herbie, a yellow Superbug and a Sunbeam Alpine Drophead identical to the one driven by Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief.

Tasman Bridge Disaster © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The museum’s penultimate exhibit is a rather humble 1974 Holden Monaro GTS. As you look into the car, imagine sitting there, the front dangling approximately 60 metres above the River Derwent. Why? Because that’s exactly what happened to the owner, Frank Manley, and his wife on the night of 5 January 1975. After the Lake Illawarra hit the Tasman Bridge, theirs was one of two cars left hanging over the edge of the broken bridge. Being able to see this car in person is a privilege.

British Bikes © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The mezzanine floor of the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania was a treat for me. On this floor, you’ll find vintage motorbikes. I grew up visiting my Pop’s garage, which contained a Norton, a Douglas, a Triumph and a Scott with a manually operated horn (my favourite!). There are plenty of other bikes on display, including a rather stunning Scout. Downstairs, there’s also a 1915 Douglas and a mini Honda.

Other exhibits include a sky-blue Thunderbird, several Jaguars, a Locomobile and a 1928 A Model Ford “Lizzie”. The Ford belonged to Tasmanian pioneer Fred Smithies O. B. E. Famous for his adventuring and photography, this car has seen some of the best of Tasmania. It is fantastic to have Tasmanian treasures on display alongside other vintage vehicles.

Getting There

Fire Engine © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The National Automobile Museum of Tasmania is a ten-minute walk from Launceston’s CBD, directly opposite Launceston’s City Park on Cimitiere Street. Parking is available on the street or in the adjacent car-park (fees apply). The museum is open from 9am – 5pm (10am – 4pm in winter) everyday except Christmas Day.

Cost

Herbie and Superbug © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Visit on the annual Community Awareness Weekend (the last weekend in August) for free entry and an additional display of special interest vehicles. Usually, prices are $14 per adult, $11 per senior and $7.50 per child (under 16). For $35, you can purchase an annual pass. This is a good deal for those who would like to return to see the new exhibits every three months. Although small, the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania is well-curated, showcasing important pieces of our motor-vehicle history.

Traverse Tasmania with me! Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s north, northwest and midlands.

August 20, 2017September 3, 2017

Cataract Gorge Cruises

After visiting Cataract Gorge last week and seeing the Lady Launceston cruising between the towering rock formations, I knew what I wanted to do this week! Fifty-minute Cataract Gorge Cruises depart Home Point several times each day and I highly recommend doing a cruise if you haven’t already. You’ll visit a small portion of kanamaluka (Tamar River), North Esk River and mangana lienta (South Esk River).

Your first sight is the picturesque Seaport. Did you know that the marina at Seaport was built for the Sydney Olympics in 2000 and was originally located in Rushcutter’s Bay before retiring to Launceston? I didn’t! The yachts make for some great photos; our captain was also full of information about the surrounding buildings.

Silo Hotel under construction © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As a local, I was thrilled to be able to see up close the new hotel being built inside the old grain silos. This imposing structure has been part of Launceston’s cityscape from 1960 and stands at 35 metres high. Hobart refurbished their grain silos some 15 year ago and I have been hanging out for someone in Launceston to do the same. Our captain says that the hotel will be ready for visitors in 18 months. Start saving for a trip to Launceston!

Ponrabbel II, Kings Wharf © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Near the silos, Kings Wharf is an intriguing place. What at first appears to be a depository of utterly unloved ships and vehicles is in fact rich in history. The rusted shell of the Ponrabbel II, which dredged the Tamar River for about 40 years, is berthed here. The shiplift has had some rather famous boats built or repaired on it, including some of Victoria’s ferries.

Royal Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

After Kings Wharf, it’s time for the best part of your Cataract Gorge Cruises journey: sailing through The Gorge! On your way, you’ll have stunning views of Trevallyn’s stately Georgian and Victorian homes. You’ll also sail past local vessels as well as local landmarks: Royal Park, Ritchie’s Mill and the Penny Royal Complex with its distinctive blue stone quarry. Finally, you’ll sail underneath the West Tamar Highway and Kings Bridge. From here, you see the two bridges that form Kings Bridge more distinctly, as well as catching glimpses of the gatekeeper’s cottage (now leased to artists and musicians).

Sailing up the South Esk River was stunning. Above us, the rock formations towered. An abseiler descended one of the many registered routes. Metal spikes projected from the rock, showing the path of the wooden aqueduct that used to carry Launceston’s water supply. Beside us, lines of foam ringed the rocks, signalling a recent rush of water. The Gorge floods regularly; the 2016 floods in Northern Tasmania were particularly momentous. You’ll also learn about the history of The Gorge, including the one penny fare that visitors paid to the family who gentrified the area (so that they could recoup some of the cost). The area is also very significant for Tasmanian Aborigines as a source of food, culture and spirituality.

Getting There

Cataract Gorge Cruises depart from Home Point, which is at the western end of Launceston’s Seaport. Paid parking is available at the Seaport or at Royal Park. Alternatively, walk approximately 15-minutes from the CBD. In winter, cruises depart at 11:30am, 12:30pm and 1:30pm. In the other three seasons, cruises operate on the hour from 9:30am, with the last cruise departing at 4:30pm.

Cost

Cataract Gorge and Kings Bridge © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

At $29 per adult, this cruise was a good deal! You’ll pay $12 per child, $25 per concession and $70 per family. In summer, I recommend booking in advance with Cataract Gorge Cruises if you have a preferred departure time. The rivers are generally very calm (except when in flood, in which case you won’t be out there!) but you are exposed to the elements. Wear warm clothes and make sure that you have sun protection (sunscreen and hats are available for purchase from the booking office). I enjoyed learning a little bit more about Launceston’s history and seeing a different view of Launceston’s riverside sights.

Staying in Launceston for a while? Read about my visit to the Cataract Gorge Reserve (on foot) and my journeys in Tasmania’s nearby north and midlands.

August 13, 2017January 14, 2018

Cataract Gorge Reserve

Launceston’s Cataract Gorge Reserve (“The Gorge” to locals) is a unique place. Carved out by the mangana lienta (South Esk River), the gorge is a stunning, dolerite landscape. The south side of the river is a dry forest and is accessible via the Zig Zag Track (for hikers). The north side resembles a rainforest and has a sealed path. The Gorge is a popular area for walking, picnics, swimming (in summer) and spending time with family and friends.

We parked at Kings Bridge and walked on the sealed path to the Cliff Grounds. This walk is very picturesque. You first encounter the bridge, an entryway and then a house that seems to cling to the cliff. Artists in residence live here. Along the pathway, there are many sights to see, including native flora, rapids and a hut made by two local gentlemen in the mid-1900s. It is a peaceful walk. You can also take a short cruise up the river.

As we entered the Cliff Grounds, we saw three wallabies. They are beautiful creatures and were very tame. Please do not feed them processed food as doing this can cause lumpy jaw. I highly recommend that you read Parks and Wildlife’s information on interacting with wild animals. It is just as satisfying to take a photograph from a distance. These wallabies were very good posers!

The Cliff Grounds were “beautified” by locals in the late 1800s. They built pathways and the gorgeous Victorian structures that are dotted about The Gorge, including the rotunda. This now contains information about the history of the Gorge and Cliff Grounds. Near the rotunda, you’ll find the path to the Gorge Scenic Chairlift. This boasts the longest span in the world! I’ll have to ride it next time I visit but ran out of time today.

There are several species of trees to admire, including approximately seventy native species. There are also seventy species of native birds to admire. Although they are introduced species, there is something wonderful about walking beneath towering maples, oaks and elms. There are also plenty of peacocks to entertain you (I grew up with peacocks so I’m not so fond of them!). I spotted three peacocks on the roof of the restaurant when we left the Cliff Grounds. The Gorge Restaurant is open daily from 9am and a kiosk is also open during the day.

From the Cliff Grounds, head downhill, following signs for The Basin Walk. This will lead you across a small footbridge (with no rails) from which you can admire the rapids, the First Basin and the suspension bridge. It’s a short walk from here to the Basin Cafe, above which is the other end of the chairlift. The Cafe has an excellent view. It is situated above an amenities block, which is designed to cater for summer swimmers.

In summer, you’ll find lovely clean water in the pool and life guards to boot. Locals also swim in the First Basin, but this is not recommended due to the submerged rocks and the depth. It is about 20 metres deep, although I have been told that the bottom hasn’t yet been located… I was brave enough to get in on a hot day some years ago, albeit with a pool noddle for safety!

From the Basin Cafe, walk towards the suspension bridge, along an unsealed path. Built in 1940, the Alexandra Suspension Bridge is very elegant and the views up and down river from it are stunning. Some people (including me!) will swing the bridge from side to side as they walk across it. If you don’t like heights, wait until you’re the only one around before crossing. A short distance from the bridge, climb the set of stairs leading up to a viewing platform. Again, the view is wonderful.

Getting There

Cataract Gorge Reserve is about a 15 – 30 minute walk from Launceston’s CBD. Paid parking (or free street parking if you are prepared to walk a little further) is available just off Basin Road in West Launceston. Limited free parking is available near the Cliff Grounds (Trevallyn) and limited paid parking is available near Kings Bridge at Penny Royal Adventures or on the street.

Cost

It does not cost anything to explore Cataract Gorge Reserve or to swim in the pool (when it is open in summer). You can also use the public barbecues, picnic areas, amenities and playground equipment for free. We brought a picnic lunch with us. Alternatively, purchase lunch from the Basin Cafe or book a table in The Gorge Restaurant. Cataract Gorge Reserve is a very special place. Enjoy your visit!

Want more ideas about what else to do nearby? Read about my experience Cataract Gorge Cruises and my adventures in Tassie’s north and midlands.