Heritage Archives - Page 3 of 10 - Traversing Tasmania

March 24, 2018April 25, 2018

Gordon River Cruise

I’m not a gushy person but the Gordon River Cruise really is something special (that’s the first and last river pun, I promise!). The cruise’s title is something of a misnomer as there are many sights to be seen (Gordon River being the most spectacular though). Here are my highlights.

Macquarie Harbour and Hell’s Gates

As you leave Strahan, stand on the deck. It’s a picturesque town that is quickly subsumed by the vast wilderness surrounding it. As the boat picks up speed, you’ll want to be on the wind (top) deck. Hold onto your hats, folks! It is a wild ride but you’ll have the best views of Macquarie Harbour and it’s actually a lot of fun leaning back into the wind for a free, albeit unpredictable, massage!

Hell’s Gates has to be seen to be believed. You’ll be awed by two convict-built rock walls (very hard labour!), making the narrow channel deep enough for the cruise boat to sail through. Then you’ll see the two lighthouses and the fisherman’s cottages on the far side of Macquarie Heads. Ocean Beach stretches out before you. Again, make sure that you’re on deck for a photo and to drink in the scenery and history.

Petuna Salmon Farms

Petuna Salmon Farm © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There is a lot of controversy about salmon farms in Tasmania due to their environmental impact. I really appreciated seeing a salmon farm up close and hearing about how the farm is run. The backdrop of Macquarie Harbour is stunning. You might even see the resident salmon thieves (seals) raise their heads between the pens. It’s good to see Tasmanian business doing so well globally and hopefully we can soon find solutions to the issues currently faced.

Gordon River

The west coast always impresses on me just how small I am. Sailing through deep, tannin-stained waters, surround by untamed forests, mountain ranges and brooding clouds, I am passing through. Many generations of people have carved out a life in this vast, wild place, the Toogee kinship group (Tasmanian Aborigines) and piners among them. It is humbling.

To be honest, the stop at Heritage Landing was underwhelming. The boat disgorges its passengers who then shuffle around a board-walk circuit. There are some redeeming features of the stop though. For one, the plant life is stunning. Many species are endemic to the west coast of Tasmania. If you’re quick enough, you can make a second lap of the circuit on your own and really enjoy the forest’s delights. If you’d rather take things slowly, one of the crew tells a good yarn on a platform halfway around the boardwalk.

Lady Jane Franklin II © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Back on board, it’s time for lunch. Yummo! We have dietary requirements and were really pleased with the selection of food available for us (you’ll need to ask the crew for specialty items like gluten free bread though). Sit back, relax and enjoy a documentary about the Gordon River piners as you cruise back up the river. If I had my time again, I would spend more time on deck and watch the documentary another time as the opportunity to see the Gordon River is a rare one.

Sarah Island

The Gordon River Cruise is the cruise that just keeps on giving. Sarah Island was unexpectedly brilliant. Naively, I was not anticipating the penal settlement to have left such an imprint. Our guide pointed out the still-visible ship yards, tannery, bakery, penitentiary and so on. The flora is also quite European as the island was initially stripped of native vegetation, leaving it so exposed in the wilds of Macquarie Harbour that a wooden wall had to be built as a windbreak! This is the place that re-offending convicts were taken to. Our guide was one of the actors from ‘The Ship that Never Was’ (a local, famous play) and provided an insightful and entertaining commentary.

What to Bring

Huon Pine © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Tasmania’s west coast is not a place to be fashionable. Although it didn’t rain when we were on the Gordon River Cruise, it is highly likely to as the west coast has 3 to 4 metres of rain per year. Unless you want to be cooped up inside for the entire cruise, bring waterproof pants and a rain jacket. It’s not high fashion but being able to sit on deck while you glide through the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Tasmanian wilderness is something that you shouldn’t pass up, no matter what the weather. It goes without saying that you’ll need to bring your camera. You should also be aware that, although lunch is hearty, there is no morning tea. Bring your own food or bring cash to purchase items on board.

Getting There

Ruins on Sarah Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Gordon River Cruise departs from Strahan, an isolated town on Tasmania’s west coast. You can expect to take over four hours to drive there from Launceston and over four and half hours from Hobart. I highly recommend allowing extra time for stops at the towns on your way. You should also avoid driving between dusk and dawn due to the increased chance of hitting wildlife, which is costly.

Cost

Bonnet Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find two companies who offer the Gordon River Cruise experience. We didn’t know this until we arrived and had already pre-booked a cruise with RACT’s Gordon River Cruises. The other (family-owned) company is World Heritage Cruises. There are slight differences in the timing of the cruises and the experiences offered so do your research and choose the cruise that suits you. Prices for a full Gordon River Cruise currently range from $115 to $160 on World Heritage Cruises and $125 to $240 on Gordon River Cruises with family discounts available from both operators. Both companies also offer “highlights” cruises (varying seasonally). Being able to see a multitude of fabulous locations in Macquarie Harbour and then cruise into a World Heritage Listed area was a priceless experience. I highly recommend saving your pennies for your own place on a Gordon River Cruise.

Read more about my adventures on Tassie’s rugged west coast.

March 13, 2018April 25, 2018

Macquarie Heads

Macquarie Heads are the headlands that meet at Hell’s gates, the narrow, shallow entrance of Macquarie Harbour. There are loud quad bikes, dirt-bikes and 4WDs everywhere, combined with a crisscross of kids and fishing rods. If you’ve seen the classic Australian film The Castle, you’ll be saying, “Ah, the serenity!” with a smile on your face. Noisy neighbours aren’t your only problem either. As we were walking back from the beach, a tiger snake (that’s a bad one, folks!) silently slithered away from the path. So… don’t go to Macquarie Heads? Well, actually, it was fantastic.

Strangely for the west coast, which has an average of 2.4 metres of rain each year, it was a fabulously sunny day. Many took the opportunity to go fishing. A few keen people went for a swim. I was content to paddle and gaze at the view of the harbour, ringed by mountains, and the lighthouses.

There are two gorgeous white lighthouses at Macquarie Heads. These have helped sailors to navigate the narrow, shallow passage into the harbour for many years. You’ll also see three fisherman’s cottages (inaccessible by road but apparently available as holiday rentals, accessed via boat). If you know where to look, you can just make out the two rock walls that were created by convicts in the 1800s in an effort to keep the channel deep enough and safe enough to sail through. It’s a photographer’s delight!

What to Bring

It’s the west coast so you’ll need your sunscreen, sunhat, beanie, scarf, gloves and your wet-weather gear. If you’re planning on staying for a few hours or longer, I’d recommend bringing your rod and tackle and trying your hand at catching lunch. You’ll also need to bring your own food, water and firewood (if fires are permitted at the time of year that you visit).

Getting There

Ocean Beach "Road" — Ocean Beach “Road” © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Macquarie Heads is about a twenty-minute drive from Strahan on Macquarie Heads Road. You’ll see clear signs from Strahan. The road is partly sealed, partly dirt and is very picturesque with more views of Macquarie Harbour as well as pine forests. Once you reach the campsite, keep driving until you reach the final car park. You can also drive your 4WD onto the beach if the conditions are right (see my post on Ocean Beach for more on beach driving). Ask locals to show you the best entry to the beach (one is extremely sandy and best avoided).

Cost

Macquarie Heads is free to visit for the day. You’ll find the best smelling bench-seat dunny (toilet) and glorious views. To camp, you’ll pay a small fee but have the benefits of grassed sites, a caretaker, a boat ramp and those views. Next time you’re in Strahan, take the time to see a very historic, very picturesque part of Macquarie Harbour.

Read more about my adventures on Tasmania’s wild west coast.

March 4, 2018

Quamby Estate Golf Course

I’m not a golfer. I do have a hit from time to time, usually when I’m 100% certain that no one is watching! If you want to know about the golf course’s features (which include Scottish-sand bunkers) or tricks for conquering challenging holes, my apologies. However, if you are interested in Tasmania’s heritage and the splendid setting of Quamby Estate Golf Course or are thinking of perhaps visiting the course for the first time, read on!

I have been to a handful of Tasmania’s golf courses. I’ve toured glorified paddocks (which was a lot of fun!) and gorgeous courses that left me (internally) screaming “get me out of here!” due to the faux-genteel clientele. Quamby Estate Golf Course is quite different. For one, the people are friendly. The main drawcard for me, however, is the quiet stateliness of the course.

Views of the Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Quamby Estate Golf Course has views of rolling fields, the Great Western Tiers and Ben Lomond. On the property, the original Georgian estate house and outbuildings have been well maintained. You can stay in the estate house, making the golf course attractive for stay-and-play visitors. The original avenues of trees have been put to good use, regally lining the fairways. You’ll particularly enjoy the second hole, hidden behind a stand of trees, which includes teeing off over a lake! I didn’t mind being a non-playing partner in such a beautiful setting.

Quamby Estate is an integral part of Tasmania’s history. Once, it was the home of the family of Sir Richard Dry, Tasmania’s first locally born premier. You won’t find interpretive placards anywhere but I can promise you that you’ll enjoy strolling through what once was the family gardens.

What to Bring

It goes without saying that you’ll need to wear weather-appropriate clothing, from the feet up. The wrong shoes will see you slipping over or sliding when you’re teeing off. I was just walking the course so wore sports shoes. Mr. Traversing Tasmania’s shoes are pictured above – he recommends golf shoes for grip and warm, dry feet. You’ll find that the pro-shop staff are very friendly and will kindly welcome you onto the golf course no matter what you’re wearing (jeans for me, oops!). If you’d like to look the part, wear collared polo shirts and cotton trousers/shorts/skirts (or similar).

Getting There

Driveway © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find Quamby Estate Golf Course about 5 minutes’ drive from the rural town of Hagley. From Launceston, drive north on the Bass Highway for approximately 25 minutes. Turn left when you see signs for Hagley, then turn right onto Hagley Station Lane (and right again onto Meander Valley Road B54). From here, follow signs for Quamby Estate (the golf course is on the estate). If you’re travelling south from Devonport, follow signs for Hagley. Turn left onto B54, following signs for Quamby Estate.

Cost

You’ll pay $20 for 9 holes or $25 for 18 holes (twice around the course) which is very reasonable. There is a pro-shop onsite (housed in a shipping container!) from which you can hire clubs. You can buy a Quamby Estate Golf Course membership for $465 (full members) – a social membership is $395. For current prices, see Quamby Estate’s website. Enjoy a classy day of golf!

Staying a while? Nearby Hazelbrae Nut Farm is gorgeous (and delicious) and (seasonally) the Rupertswood Farm Crop Maze is not to be missed. Further afield, you’ll find lots to do in the midlands, north and north-west of Tasmania.

February 10, 2018February 10, 2018

The Penitentiary

Clock Tower © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The Penitentiary in Hobart is a time capsule. At one point during the tour, I found myself thinking, “Where am I?” The guide’s descriptions and the beautifully preserved location took me to another place, another time. If you haven’t visited The Penitentiary, put it on your list of things to do. It’s fantastic!

Hobart’s landscape once looked very different. In the early 1800s, shiploads of convicts arrived in the town and required sorting. The Penitentiary, affectionately known as The Tench, was built for this purpose. Later, it was used as a gaol, with a public chapel and gallows. You won’t find much of it left but what does remain will amaze you.

Broad Arrow © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On arriving at The Penitentiary, you’ll see the lovely clock tower. We even heard it chime – it was about a minute out but that’s pretty good for a clock that’s nearly 200 years old! You’ll also see the red brick of one of the original curved walls. It’s a lovely architectural feature but it’s even more fascinating when you run your hands over the broad arrows and thumbprints left by the convicts who made the bricks.

Inside the gates, you’ll see the shadowy outlines of the doors into the solitary confinement cells. Inside the building, stand inside a cell with the door shut. Our guide was very kind and kept it shut only for a few moments. You’ll then see the remains of the original chapel, which was converted to courtrooms when The Penitentiary became a prison.

Courtroom 2 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll journey to the courtrooms like a prisoner, through underground tunnels. What an experience! Popping up inside the historic dock really threw me! It felt like I could have been in England or perhaps back in the courtroom’s heyday. Your tour ends with a sobering visit to the gallows (and some grisly tales from your guide). The Penitentiary is not a pleasant place but it is strangely beautiful and exceedingly fascinating.

What to Bring

Courtroom 1 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bring your camera but leave everything else in the car or the museum office. Some of the tour is outside, so you’ll need to wear appropriate clothing for the season. I imagine that the guides whisk you inside the building quickly if the weather is too extreme.

Getting There

The Tench © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find The Penitentiary on the corner of Campbell and Brisbane Streets in Hobart. It’s a short drive or walk from the CBD. Make use of the limited visitor parking in a small carpark behind the building on Brisbane Street. If you miss out on this, you’ll have to pay for street parking (there are two-hour spots in Brisbane Street).

Cost

There is no cost to view the two museum rooms, the tour waiting room and the gift shop. You’ll learn a lot about The Penitentiary but you can’t see the historic site properly unless you do a guided tour. Tours cost $20 per adult, $15 concession, $12 per child or $40 for families. Make sure that you arrive in time to book a tour. Tours depart at 1pm and 2:30pm everyday and also at 10am and 11:30am on weekdays (it is closed on public holidays). Your tour will last for approximately 90 minutes but can go longer (we had booked tickets at the State Cinema and missed the last few minutes of our tour). Thank you to the National Trust for making yet another historic site come alive!

If you’re in the area for a while, there are many other fantastic places to visit in Tasmania’s south.

December 28, 2017

Bridestowe Lavender Estate

I have visited Bridestowe Lavender Estate before, in winter. Even then, it was impressive. In summer, the lavender is in bloom, making the farm a must-see. Fields of purple follow the contours of the land, pointing to the distant Mount Arthur. It is a spectacular sight!

You can wander through the fields for as long as you like. Once the hazy smell of the lavender, the beautiful view of Mount Arthur and the thrill of taking the perfect shot have worn off, there’s more to do. Walk down to the dam, picnic under the oak trees or stroll near the pines, admiring the intriguing statues. When you’re finished, head to the buildings.

You now have choices. Ice-cream first? A lavender blend is available from the very cute truck. What about Devonshire tea? Lavender scones and lavender tea with lavender jam on the side await you in the café. Prefer retail therapy? The Bridestowe Lavender Estate gift store is bursting at the seams with lavender produce, including the famous Bobbie the Bear. When you’re done eating and shopping, join a guided tour.

The Distillery © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As Bridestowe Lavender Estate is a historic property, the lavender distillery is well worth having a look at. The farm was founded in 1921 and relocated to Nabowla in the mid-1940s. The distillery is a quiet testament to times gone by. You’ll find antique bottles, signs, tins and equipment, as well as a brief explanation of the distilling process.

What to Bring

Lavender Fields © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It sounds obvious, given that you are visiting a farm, but do wear sturdy shoes. Even in summer, it will rain at times and the red earth turns to mud quite quickly! Wear weather-appropriate clothing and take your camera with you. Selfie-sticks are very popular (and useful) but I still can’t bring myself to use one!

Getting There

Mount Arthur © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bridestowe Lavender Estate is approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Launceston. It is located in Nabowla, which is north-east of Lilydale. Allow extra time for sight-seeing. We stopped at Lilydale Falls Reserve on the way for a short walk as the falls are very peaceful and picturesque. You could also visit one of the well-known wineries in the area, such as Pipers Brook Vineyard or Jansz Tasmania. There is ample parking at Bridestowe Lavender Estate. Instead of driving, you can take a bus (either as a tour or just as public transport) from Launceston to the estate.

Cost

Gift Shop © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll pay $10 per person to visit Bridestowe Lavender Estate when the flowers are in bloom. If you are a local or a Friend of Bridestowe (you can sign up for free on Bridestowe Lavender Estate’s website), you’ll get in for free! You can also visit the estate out of season free of charge. The shop and café both have EFTPOS facilities but I’m not sure about the ice-cream truck so take a little bit of cash with you. The estate is open from 9am to 5pm daily (except Christmas Day). Enjoy walking through the fields of lavender and soaking in a little bit more of Tasmania’s unique history.

Staying a while? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s north and east coast.

December 26, 2017December 27, 2017

Freycinet Adventures

The Hazards © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Recently, we celebrated our wedding anniversary by kayaking into Freycinet National Park with Freycinet Adventures. It was remarkable, bobbing around in the bay and staring up at the Hazards. A lunch stop at a hidden waterfall sealed the deal: I’d do this again!

Our guide was very friendly and knowledgeable. At the start of your journey, you’ll receive tips for paddling well as well as the usual safety drills. Traveling in a double-kayak, you’ll depart from Muirs Beach (Coles Bay) and paddle past Picnic Island to Freycinet National Park. In the right season, whales and seals may surface. Your guide will stop the group at several points to discuss the history of the area, including the pink granite quarry.

You’ll alight at a hidden cove for a cup of tea and a snack (provided by Freycinet Adventures). The cove houses a gorgeous waterfall. From here, you’ll paddle past Freycinet Lodge and Richardsons Beach. Here, your guide will take a photo of you with the marvellous Hazards in the background. Finally, you’ll sail through the boats moored off Coles Bay on your trip back to Muirs Beach.

What to Bring

View of Picnic Island © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We did the half-day kayak trip. Wear bathers. While Freycinet Adventures have a policy of “on the water, not in the water”, your bottom will get wet at some point and bathers are much more comfortable! On cooler days, wear polypro or merino thermals for warmth, remembering that it is colder on the water. You’ll be provided with a fleece jacket and a wetsuit skirt. Bring your camera as there’ll be lots of chances for taking photos! Dry bags are provided for storing your electronics. A cuppa and biscuit is also provided for morning tea.

Getting There

Your trip departs from Muirs Beach at the western end of Coles Bay. We booked online but you could also book via Freycinet Adventures’s office, which is located near Muirs Beach. There is no need to head to the office if you have already booked your trip. Just turn up at the beach! Coles Bay is just over two hours’ drive from Launceston via the Midlands and Lake Leake Highways. From Hobart, it’s about a two and a half hour drive via the Tasman Highway. Give yourself plenty of extra time for stops along the way.

Cost

Freycinet National Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

In 2017, you’ll pay $98 per adult and $88 per child for the half day tour, which last for approximately three hours. Two and three day tours are also available. Booking online is very straightforward. Payment is processed after your trip in case the trip needs to be cancelled due to poor weather conditions. I’m sure that many a local will scoff at paying for the privilege of kayaking but the staff at Freycinet Adventures make your trip memorable (and not too much hard work!). Included in the cost is your outer layer (fleece jacket and wetsuit skirt), morning or afternoon tea and entry into Freycinet National Park. Of course, use of the kayaks and paddles is included. We had a fabulous time!

For tips on what to do nearby, read my posts about Tasmania’s east coast. If you’re happy to take a longer journey to your destination, I’ve had many an adventure in Tasmania’s south, midlands and north. Happy travels!