Heritage Archives - Page 2 of 10 - Traversing Tasmania

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.

June 16, 2018

Stanley

Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach — Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

June 10, 2018

The Nut

The Nut. An awe-inspiring volcanic plug. A stunning backdrop for photos of Stanley. A pleasant stroll? Listed as one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, the hike up to the top is no mean feat! With views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape, Table Cape and Highfield House, The Nut will quite literally take your breath away.

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Nut is a unique rock formation in the town of Stanley, north west Tasmania. It rises 143 metres and is a little bit like Uluru: a giant rock that appears seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Originally named Circular Head (which is now the name of the surrounding region), it was possibly called The Nut after its Tasmanian Aboriginal name, munatrik, or perhaps because not even explosives could make a dent in it.

What’s up there? You’ll find a circuit track, a Parks and Wildlife reading room, Stanley trig point and a surprising array of flora and fauna. My favourite way to do the 2.3 km circuit is to head left through the button grass first. I love to gaze out at Bass Strait and pinmatik/Rocky Cape National Park.

As you begin to go around the opposite side, you’ll have views of Smithton, Tatlows Beach, Stanley, and even directly down to the fisherman’s wharf. You’ll find fenced lookouts and plenty of benches to sit on. The most unexpected sight is a forested fairy-tale grove, replete with pademelon and even picnic tables to sit on and enjoy the serenity. You won’t want to leave!

What to Bring

Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes for climbing up and down The Nut. You’ll need a small bottle of water too. There are picnic tables at the top (turn right onto the circuit path if you want to reach them faster) so you could bring some food with you. We generally just walk the circuit, take in the views and then descend to Stanley.

Getting There

Views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Drive for two and a half hours from Launceston along the Bass Highway. Stanley is well-signposted. When in Stanley, you can drive to The Nut via Browns Road (accessed via Marshall Street or Harrison Terrace). There is ample parking at the base of The Nut. Alternatively, you can park in Church Street and walk to The Nut directly from town, via a pathway between 50 and 54 Alexander Terrace.

Cost

Tatlows Beach and beyond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is free and fabulous exercise to walk up The Nut. The chairlift runs in the warmer months. Prices are $16 return and $10 one way for adults. For children, you’ll pay $10 return and $5 one way. Note that the chairlift is closed over winter and can close at any time of the year due to poor weather. If you have health issues that affect your mobility, walking up and down The Nut might be a bit taxing. I would recommend waiting for a non-winter, calm day on which to take the chairlift instead. Whichever way you ascend The Nut, you’ll be glad you’ve made the effort. The Nut’s geology, flora, fauna and views are incredible. Enjoy!

Want more information? Do another of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. Visit, in person or vicariously, Tasmania’s north west, west coast or north. Travelling further afield? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands.

May 6, 2018May 20, 2018

The Ship That Never Was

The Ship That Never Was is Australia’s longest running theatre show. You can watch it every night at 5:30pm in Strahan. The play is performed by The Round Earth Company and was written by historian Richard Davey about the fate of The Frederick. This was the last ship that was built by convicts in the shipyards at nearby Sarah Island. Historic? Yes. Boring? No way! I haven’t laughed so hard in a long time! This play is a masterpiece.

Ship Building © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I thought that a historic story would be a little dated, perhaps even snooze-inducing, but our convicts were entertaining rapscallions. In the hands of a gifted writer, their lives are a comedic tragedy. The Ship That Never Was is a poignant, laugh-out-loud tale that simultaneously allows you to experience part of Macquarie Harbour’s history. You’ll be on the edge of your seat, waiting to hear what happened to our intrepid crew.

The Round Earth Company © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I found the actors highly entertaining. A two-person troupe, they engage the audience at every step. You never know – you might even be one of the stars of The Ship That Never Was! One of the two actors was our guide the following day on our tour of Sarah Island (as part of the Gordon River Cruise) and showed us the shipyards where part of the play is set.

You’ll be amazed by the set of The Ship That Never Was. We walked past the Richard Davey Amphitheatre earlier in the day, peered in and couldn’t really make sense of it. I would tell you what happens but it’s rather lovely to watch it coming together (and breaking apart) for yourself.

Getting There

The Ship That Never Was is performed in the Richard Davey Amphitheatre in summer (September to May) and runs as a film at the Risby Cove Theatrette in winter (June to August). Both venues are located on The Esplanade in Strahan and are a few minutes’ drive apart. There are coverings over the bleachers in the amphitheatre so you’ll be perfectly comfortable in the outdoor arena, even if the weather isn’t great. There is free parking at Risby Cove but paid parking only near the Richard Davey Amphitheatre (unless you’re happy to take a short walk uphill).

Cost

To see the summertime live performance, you’ll pay $25 per adult, $20 per concession, $12.50 per student and $2.50 per child (4 – 12 years old). Prices are much cheaper to see the film in winter. You can find up-to-date pricing here. You may think that this is expensive but it really isn’t. I would be VERY surprised if you didn’t want to go back the following night for a second viewing! I wanted to. Bring cash to purchase one of the interpretive booklets at the end of the play. It was wonderful to be a small part of Australia’s theatre history for an evening.

Staying a while? Read more about my adventures in Strahan and on the west coast.

April 19, 2018

Strahan

Reflections © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a lovely town for many reasons. Firstly, the west coast wilderness creeps right up to the edges of the town, giving it a fairy-tale setting. Lovely walks, such as the hike to Hogarth Falls, fall within the town’s boundaries. Secondly, it’s a picturesque port. Boats are anchored against a backdrop of misty wilderness. What a wonderful place!

Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill — Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a town that has seen many a hard time. Originally a piners and miners town, it was formed by sheer grit. The collapse of mining in recent years has meant a new fight for the town’s survival, this time through tourism ventures like Gordon River Cruises. Several industries have stood the test of time: Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a living museum and The Ship that Never Was is Australia’s longest running (and arguably funniest) theatre show.

Gordon River Cruise © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You should visit Strahan for many reasons, the foremost being that there is nowhere else in the world like it. On our first morning in Strahan, we awoke to views of Macquarie Harbour, which is six times as large as Sydney Harbour and approximately one thousand times wilder. On our way to the Gordon River Cruise boat, we watched a historic steam train leave its station across the bay. While waiting for our boat to board, we photographed the still waters and ancient forests before purchasing a morning pick-me-up from The Coffee Shack, a cheerful cafe run by local sisters. I would head back in a heart beat.

Abt Railway, Regatta Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is also the gateway to many a grand adventure. From here, you can arrange an all-terrain vehicle tour of the Henty Dunes, drive on Ocean Beach, sail overnight on the Gordon River, purchase Huon Pine at mates rates, watch Australia’s longest running play, explore World Heritage Listed wilderness or steam up the mighty Abt railway. Alternatively, just stroll around the foreshore to Regatta Point. There is so much to do in Strahan that it is quite tricky to set aside time to just relax!

What to Bring

Customs Offices © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Don’t leave home without your wet-weather gear. Having sturdy walking boots, waterproof pants and a raincoat will allow you to enjoy Strahan no matter how much it rains. There is a well-stocked IGA in Strahan and a petrol station, as well as restaurants, cafes, a take-away shop and the like. However, I always bring some supplies from home too, to keep costs down and to make sure that I have everything I need. Reservations are recommended at restaurants and attractions as you may miss out otherwise. Lastly, bring your Strahan bucket-list (and a realisation that, unless you have a month, you won’t get through it).

Getting There

Fishing Wharf © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is about four and a half hours’ drive from Hobart or four hours’ drive from Launceston. Whichever way you go, the roads can be treacherous as the West Coast receives a lot of rain, which can lead to wet or icy roads, depending on the conditions. Driving from dusk to dawn is not recommended as the wildlife are large and they are at large! It is just not worth it to hit a wombat or a wallaby. Plan to arrive in Strahan at least an hour before dark (otherwise, enjoy a very slow drive…).

Enjoy your visit to Strahan! It truly is a wonderful town and I can’t wait to return. For more things to do on the west coast, read on!

April 9, 2018April 25, 2018

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill

Workshop © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a fourth generation, family-run sawmill in Strahan. Reasons to visit include experiencing a sawmill in action, seeing vintage equipment, enjoying the waterfront view and watching a saw demonstration at approximately 3pm each day. The very best reason to visit is that you get to breathe in the glorious Huon pine scent. There’s nothing quite like it!

Vintage Saw © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

We arrived at Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill at 3:15pm. This was a fabulous time to arrive as Snowy Morrison was just about to start his museum-piece saw, bringing the mill to roaring life. It was also a dreadful time to arrive as a boatload of tourists arrived just after the saw had started, swamping the shop. If you feel panicky, close your eyes and smell the Huon Pine. It’ll all be over soon, folks!

Being a Tasmanian has several advantages. For one, I happened to know one of the Morrison family members. This then led to me having a cuppa in Snowy Morrison’s house, admiring his gorgeous wooden furniture. If you’re not a local, you can at least have a yarn with the Morrison family at the sawmill and can admire the craftsmanship of the items in the gift shop.

Getting There

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is located on the Esplanade in Strahan, just up from the Gordon River Cruise departure points. Daily saw demonstrations start as passengers leave the cruise boats (approximately 3pm). While it’s a four-hour drive from Hobart (or a four-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston), what you spend in petrol will be saved on Huon pine goodies!

Cost

World Heritage Cruises © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wonderfully, Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is free to visit! You can wander through the workshop, admire antique equipment and make a purchase from the gift shop. I would tell you how cheap my gorgeous Huon pine chopping board was except that then there won’t be any left next time I visit. Suffice to say, if you’re in Strahan and you don’t visit Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill, you’ll regret it!

Staying a while? Read about more of my adventures on Tasmania’s wild west coast.