Heritage Archives - Traversing Tasmania

January 8, 2019January 8, 2019

Waddamana Power Station

Entrance © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The central highlands is an excellent yet underrated part of Tasmania. Boasting dramatic landscapes, world heritage wilderness, freshwater fishing, pencil pines, engineering feats of yesteryear, Australia’s oldest golf course and luxury accommodation, it is a good idea to add the area to your “must see” list. One of the fascinating things to explore in the central highlands is the power scheme. I’ve visited Pumphouse Point and Poatina Power Station (open to the public only occasionally) and can now add Waddamana Power Station to the list. Although very different to the other two sites, it is equally as impressive.

Waddamana B Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is difficult to imagine how on earth the power stations, pumphouses, watercourses and so on that criss-cross the central highlands were built in the early 1900s. When you see the terrain for yourself, you’ll understand what I mean! Many of the workers arrived on foot from Launceston, something that I don’t recommend trying out yourself! Waddamana A Power Station is the station that has been restored and is now open to the public. You can catch glimpses of Waddamana B Power Station but it is not open for inspection.

Why visit?

Exposed turbine © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find the building itself impressive. It a tribute to a bygone era where industrial buildings were both functional and beautiful. The fall of the pipes to the power station down the hillside also makes for a spectacular backdrop. Inside, visit the original offices, see the logbooks, explore a store of tools. If you’re feeling cold, sit in the heated history room and view footage of some the station’s key events. My favourite thing to do is to walk between the turbines. There is a large array of them, all restored and one stripped so that you can see the inner workings.

Turbines and alternators © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Walk to the end of the hall and have a look at the smaller exhibits too. I learnt that ceramic insulators were used originally (before the invention of polymer and plastic insulators). They are rather beautiful works of art! Upstairs, you’ll find another exhibit, this time showcasing life in Waddamana and the central highlands in the early- to mid-1900s. On your way out, make sure that you say hello to Joe the dachshund (sausage dog) and his lovely owner.

What to Bring

Traversing Waddamana Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll want to bring food and water with you. Between the drive in and out of the power station and the hour or so that you spend exploring it, you’ll have worked up an appetite and there are no cafes nearby. I also recommend dressing appropriately for the weather forecast as it can be very cold in the central highlands. The history room is the only heated part of the station, so you can shelter there if needed!

Getting There

The yard © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Waddamana Power Station is located between the towns of Miena and Bothwell. Take the A5 and then detour via the C178. Check for road closures before you start out. Even though it wasn’t snowing, we were caught out by unexpected roadworks. We had to double-back towards Bothwell, making the trip longer than anticipated. It will take you approximately one hour and forty-five minutes to drive from either Launceston or Hobart to Waddamana, if all of the roads are open. Hydro Tasmania currently advise that the roadworks are ongoing (check their website here), although you can time your trip to coincide with a break in the roadworks. Give yourself more time and enjoy the scenery!

Cost

You’ll visit Waddamana Power Station for FREE!!!! Even better, the museum is open daily from 10am – 4pm, except for major public holidays (Christmas Day, Boxing Day and Good Friday). You will shell out quite a bit in petrol to get there. That said, the central highlands region is well worth the visit.

Want to visit more of the central highlands’ power scheme? Pumphouse Point is magnificent and, although rarely open, I highly recommend exploring Poatina Power Station. Other nearby attractions include Ratho Farm (housing Australia’s oldest golf course) or you can head further afield to the west, south, north or to the midlands.

December 1, 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum

Founders Lake © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Way back in mid-October, we visited The Tasmanian Arboretum. My only regret is that we didn’t spend more time there! What will you find? You’ll cross lakes and streams, watch for platypus, explore quarries, wander through groves of trees from different parts of the world and learn something of the history of the area. Make sure that, at some point, you climb up a hillside. The views are lovely!

You enter The Tasmanian Arboretum via the Japanese Gardens. This part of the garden is small but worthy of some attention. The bridges are beautiful, taking you over streams and between gorgeous plants. From here, walk to the café. You might not be hungry yet but it’s worth purchasing a few snacks to take with you as you will be walking a good distance! The café is also the place where you’ll be able to grab a map and pay your entry fee (if you didn’t have cash to put in one of the boxes in the car park).

Views from the Arbor © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From here, head wherever you want to! The Tasmanian Arboretum is a sprawling park with themed areas to explore. Click here to view a map of the arboretum and its walking trails. We enjoyed walking the Lake Circuit and admiring the views back towards the lake from the Arbor in the Tasmanian plant section. Do take the time to climb up Lime Hill Lookout, again, for the views! You can even cross Founders Lake onto a small island.

Platypus and Bird Hide © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

A real highlight of The Tasmanian Arboretum is the chance to see a platypus. The volunteers in the café will be able to tell you where the platypus currently are most likely to be spotted or you can take a chance (and find shelter!) in the Platypus and Bird Hide at the edge of the main lake. You’re more likely to see platypus in the early morning or at dusk so plan your visit accordingly.

History

Views from Lime Hill Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I wasn’t expecting local history to be such a feature of The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are two quarries to look at (or not, if, like Mr. Traversing Tasmania, you find disused quarries uninteresting!). The garden also boasts limestone formations (including small caves). If you have time, you can walk out to the Don River and an old railway track. We saw a family walking along the hand-dug tramway that runs parallel to part of the Lake Circuit and it looked to be a fantastic walk. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to follow them. Another reason for a return visit!

What to Bring

Traversing The Tasmanian Arboretum © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring your pram, your walker, your bike or your wheel chair because the main circuit around The Tasmanian Arboretum is a level gravel path. Fantastic! Note that, although it would be possible to take a bike off the main circuit and onto the smaller paths, bikes are restricted to the main circuit. If you are a person with a disability, you can even drive around the main circuit.

Public Barbecues © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re walking and want to explore the smaller pathways up the sides of the hill, comfortable shoes are a good idea. Always where weather appropriate clothing. You will want to bring (or buy from the café) some food and water too you’ll be visiting for a few hours at least, particularly if you’re pausing to watch for platypus. There are plenty of places to sit at a bench or table or you can bring a picnic rug. Public barbecues are available. You’ll find an amenity block near the entrance and a composting toilet a few hundred metres up the main path from the Platypus Observatory. If you wish, you can even bring your pooch (on leash) with you!

Getting There

Blossoms © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum is about 15 minutes’ drive south-east of Devonport. Head south on Middle Road (stop for a tour of Home Hill). Turn right in Spreyton onto Kelcey Tier Road. If you’re travelling from Ulverstone, follow the Bass Highway to Turner’s Beach and then follow the B15 and the C145 to The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are many twists and turns this way so drive carefully.

Cost

Look up! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to The Tasmanian Arboretum is for the bargain price of $5 per adult (children free). If you think that you’ll be visiting often, you can pay for a membership, which gives you free entry. The Tasmanian Arboretum is open from 9am to sunset each day. Enjoy your walk through one of Tasmania’s most interesting gardens!

There’s more to do in and around Devonport! Visit Home Hill, sail on the Julie Burgess, catch the Spirit of Tasmania to Melbourne or head further afield in Tasmania’s north west or north.

October 14, 2018October 14, 2018

Ratho Farm

I love Tasmania’s central highlands. You’ll find snow in winter and clear blue skies in summer, with the lakes and mountains giving a stunning backdrop to rural pastures year-round. Some of Tasmania’s best country is here. The early Scottish settlers obviously shared my sentiments. Ratho Farm was established in the early 1800s, along with Australia’s oldest golf course (Rath Farm Golf Course), which winds its way around the homestead. The homestead looks rather grand but is quirky! You’ll enjoy exploring the homestead, golf course and the grounds of Ratho Farm.

Accommodation

The Stables © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You can choose to stay in convict-built cottages that have been tastefully renovated. These converted farm outbuildings are grouped quite closely together, closer than I expected. If you want more privacy, the Bakery is a separate building but it is still close to other cottages. If you travel with family and friends, you can book out an entire building (or the entire site!). Ratho Farm staff suggested paying a little extra for a premium suite with views of the Clyde River and I’m glad that the Scottish penny-pinching side of me didn’t win out. Waking up to views of a spectacular purple sunset over the river on our first day there was AMAZING!

Food

Homestead © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bothwell is in rural Tasmania and is a long way from the major cities. For this reason, I highly recommend booking breakfast and perhaps dinner for your stay. At the very least, you’ll need a plan of where you’ll eat dinner as the local pub is only open on certain nights of the week. You can choose to eat some of your meals at Nant Distillery too (expensive but lovely food). We brought our own lunch with us. Our host was very good at catering for dietary requirements which was lovely! If you give a few days’ warning, your requests will be accommodated. Having breakfast in the aged, stately dining room or cheese and wine by the fire in the lounge room is a wonderful experience. You can imagine, if you ignore anything reliant on electricity, what life might have been like for the Reid family who built the homestead.

Dining Room © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The best thing about eating at Ratho Farm is being in the homestead and getting to know the other guests over a meal. Being Tasmanian, you never know who you’ll meet where. We checked in at the same time as family friends (one of whom taught me many years ago too!), neither of us knowing that the other was going to be there. We ended up having a lovely time with them, sharing meals and playing golf together. Getting to know the other guests was also lovely.

Animals

Ratho Farm has a handful of “hairy coos” (Scottish highland cows), a peacock (heard but not seen by us), wallabies, platypus and a whole lot of sheep. At the suggestion of our host, I was up early to see the platypus in the river directly opposite our cottage. I was teased with a five second swim across the surface and then platypus got down to the business of eating (on the river bed), which meant that there were no more sightings despite me trying to wait it out! The sheep were not so shy. We saw ewes and lambs on our way to dinner, out on the golf course, on our evening walks and even in the loungeroom after dinner on our second evening. A young family had joined us for dinner in the homestead and our host brought in the two orphan lambs to entertain the kids (and us!).

What to Bring

Springtime © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll definitely need warm clothing. When we visited, in early Spring, the days heated up nicely but, being in the highlands, the temperature sure did drop overnight. I donned my beanie and gloves on the walk to dinner. Sturdy shoes for dodging the sheep poop and mud are a must! Otherwise, bring your usual creature comforts, including a good book. For tips on what to bring for a game of golf, see my post on Ratho Farm Golf Course.

Getting There

Verandah © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm is a minute’s drive north of beautiful Bothwell in Tasmania’s Central Highlands. The farm is an hour away from Hobart and an hour and a half away from Launceston. From Hobart, head north on the Midlands Highway, turning left at Melton Mowbray and following signs for Bothwell. From Launceston, drive south via Longford and Poatina (or Deloraine via Miena), following signs for Bothwell. Make sure that you allow for extra time to explore Tassie’s picturesque countryside.

Cost

Clyde River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You are welcome to visit Ratho Farm for a round of golf or a squiz at the farm anytime of the year. Staying overnight is not cheap but it is enjoyable. For a double/twin-share room, 2018 prices are $175 for a standard room or $195 per night for a premium suite. The extra $20 per night gives you either a view of the Clyde River or a working fireplace. Firewood, meals and golf are additional extras although you can sometimes find package deals available. You’ll be glad to know that, unlike similar Tasmanian establishments, there is no minimum night stay (except possibly in peak seasons) so you can book a night on your way somewhere else. Mind you, if you want to play a round of golf, I recommend booking two nights and making the most of the relaxing setting. Enjoy your stay at Ratho Farm!

If you enjoy a round of golf, read my post about Ratho Farm Golf Course. For more to do in the central highlands, click here. If you’re passing through, enjoy your trip south, north, west or to the midlands.

September 2, 2018September 2, 2018

Waterworks Reserve

Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the west, north, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

August 13, 2018

Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre

Traversing the ruins © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I’ve found another Tasmanian treasure trove: Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre. If you visit, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the ruins (above ground) of the original Tasmania Mine and also to walk around the headframe of the Beaconsfield Gold Mine. Inside, there are several, highly interactive exhibits. View displays of mining equipment, communication equipment, the history of the local area and the stories of the mines, including the 2006 Beaconsfield Mine tragedy and rescue.

Miners' Hut — Miners’ Hut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre taught me a lot. I now know a little bit about how to mine gold and I can tell you now that I won’t be quitting my day job because mining is tough work! Seeing the inventiveness of the miners, particularly in the desperate days of the rescue at Beaconsfield Mine, was astounding. Simple objects become game-changers in the hands of people who need a solution, fast.

The buildings that house the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre are gorgeous. The newer building, while essentially a block, is well-landscaped and the historic shell is very photogenic. You’ll enjoy viewing the historic machinery, telephones and house-hold goods. These have been donated by the local community. Who knew that industrial objects could be beautiful too? You’ll find something fascinating around every corner.

Interactive

Mine Headframe © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The absolute icing on the cake for me was that I was able to interact with most exhibits. From the red phone box, I called Mr Traversing Tasmania on the wall phone. I crawled through a tunnel, played an old piano and tried my hand at moving some of the mining equipment. It turns out that I might need to buff up a bit. Mr Traversing Tasmania also got me with the water wheel. Luckily, I was wearing my raincoat!

Family-Friendly

Machinery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The great thing for families is that you’re allowed to touch almost everything that you can touch. Phew! The precious (or dangerous) items are stored behind barriers or glass. The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre has clearly been planned with kids in mind. There’s a sandpit complete with a family of diggers outside under a veranda. Alternatively, your kids might want to explore an old miners hut. Look for the yellow hand symbols for interactive exhibits.

What to Bring

One of the wonderful things about visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is that you are able to walk through the yard, around the A-frame mineshaft. This does mean, however, that you’re out in the weather. Wear sturdy footwear and weather-appropriate clothes for comfort. I also recommend bringing a picnic lunch to eat in the park opposite. It is a beautifully kept park with play equipment and even a few miners’ huts to look at.

Getting There

Beaconsfield is approximately a 40-minute drive north of Launceston. You can either travel up the East Tamar Highway, crossing the Batman Bridge, or you can travel up the West Tamar Highway. In summer, pick your own berries at Hillwood Berry Farm on the eastern shore or, year-round, stop for a walk at either Tamar Island or Notley Fern Gorge on the eastern shore. Once you reach Beaconsfield, just drive towards the mine shaft. You can’t miss it! You’ll find plenty of parking at the Heritage Centre.

Cost

At $15 per adult, $12 per concession and $5 per child (children under 5 are free), visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is a bargain. Put it this way: You could pay (more) to sit through a movie, which you might or might not like and probably wouldn’t bother watching again, or you could race around like an excited kid, pressing buttons, exploring a historic site and learning more about Tassie’s history. I’d visit again in a heartbeat!

There’s lots more to see (or read about) in Tasmania’s north, north west, west coast, south, east coast, midlands or central highlands. Happy exploring!

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.