Lake St Clair

Traversing Lake St Clair
Lake St Clair
Lake St Clair © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti
larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

Watersmeet
Watersmeet © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck
Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point
Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite
Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Hut
Hut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track
Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

Stanley

The Nut and Stanley
Little penguin colony
Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

The Angel's Share
The Angel’s Share © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat
Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

Highfield House
Highfield House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Tatlows Beach
Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach
Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

The Nut

Traversing The Nut
The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Nut. An awe-inspiring volcanic plug. A stunning backdrop for photos of Stanley. A pleasant stroll? Listed as one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, the hike up to the top is no mean feat! With views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape, Table Cape and Highfield House, The Nut will quite literally take your breath away.

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Nut is a unique rock formation in the town of Stanley, north west Tasmania. It rises 143 metres and is a little bit like Uluru: a giant rock that appears seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Originally named Circular Head (which is now the name of the surrounding region), it was possibly called The Nut after its Tasmanian Aboriginal name, munatrik, or perhaps because not even explosives could make a dent in it.

Stanley Trig Point
Stanley Trig Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

What’s up there? You’ll find a circuit track, a Parks and Wildlife reading room, Stanley trig point and a surprising array of flora and fauna. My favourite way to do the 2.3 km circuit is to head left through the button grass first. I love to gaze out at Bass Strait and pinmatik/Rocky Cape National Park.

Picnic
Picnic © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

As you begin to go around the opposite side, you’ll have views of Smithton, Tatlows Beach, Stanley, and even directly down to the fisherman’s wharf. You’ll find fenced lookouts and plenty of benches to sit on. The most unexpected sight is a forested fairy-tale grove, replete with pademelon and even picnic tables to sit on and enjoy the serenity. You won’t want to leave!

What to Bring

The Nut
The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes for climbing up and down The Nut. You’ll need a small bottle of water too. There are picnic tables at the top (turn right onto the circuit path if you want to reach them faster) so you could bring some food with you. We generally just walk the circuit, take in the views and then descend to Stanley.

Getting There

Views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape
Views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Drive for two and a half hours from Launceston along the Bass Highway. Stanley is well-signposted. When in Stanley, you can drive to The Nut via Browns Road (accessed via Marshall Street or Harrison Terrace). There is ample parking at the base of The Nut. Alternatively, you can park in Church Street and walk to The Nut directly from town, via a pathway between 50 and 54 Alexander Terrace.

Cost

Tatlows Beach and beyond
Tatlows Beach and beyond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is free and fabulous exercise to walk up The Nut. The chairlift runs in the warmer months. Prices are $16 return and $10 one way for adults. For children, you’ll pay $10 return and $5 one way. Note that the chairlift is closed over winter and can close at any time of the year due to poor weather. If you have health issues that affect your mobility, walking up and down The Nut might be a bit taxing. I would recommend waiting for a non-winter, calm day on which to take the chairlift instead. Whichever way you ascend The Nut, you’ll be glad you’ve made the effort. The Nut’s geology, flora, fauna and views are incredible. Enjoy!

Want more information? Do another of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. Visit, in person or vicariously, Tasmania’s north west, west coast or north. Travelling further afield? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands.

Tasmania Zoo

Bushland
Pygmy Marmoset
Pygmy Marmoset © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There’s something lovely about Tasmania Zoo. Primarily, it’s the location, on a gorgeous bush block. I also enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and the ingenuity of the play equipment and fences. With one set of my grandparents being animal activists, animals in cages can make me uneasy but I’d visit Tasmania Zoo again – they’re doing good work there.

 

Great Western Tiers
Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Nestled in the rolling hills that ring the Meander Valley, Tasmania Zoo has stellar views of the Great Western Tiers. You might want to just stand in the carpark and look west for a while. It’s beautiful. When you finally do enter the zoo, it’s surrounded by native bushland. All of this makes for a tranquil setting.

 

Wildlife
Wildlife © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you enter Tasmania Zoo, you’ll be greeted by friendly staff. I highly recommend booking an animal encounter along with your entry ticket. The extra dollars paid just to hold a wombat, for example, might seem pricey but you won’t regret it when you have that bundle of furry goodness in your arms! The friendliness continues with a welcome “Hello!” from a resident cockatoo. You might even find yourself standing next to a wallaby, like we did! It’s a very welcoming environment.

 

Playground
Playground © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Sustainability is clearly a focus for the staff at Tasmania Zoo. Barriers have been made from recycled gas bottles and tyres. Our friends’ kids loved the tractor tyre cum roundabout in the playground! I found myself simultaneously admiring the animals and inventiveness of some of the enclosures.

 

Sentry Duty
Sentry Duty © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Animals. That’s why we go to zoos. Standouts for me were the meerkats, the pygmy marmosets and the Tasmanian devils. Time your visit right and you’ll get to see the meerkats fed as you enter and the devils fed as you leave (or vice versa). As always with a good zoo, you’ll come away understanding more about the animals. As an eagle circled overhead and the guide explained meerkat behaviour, I understood why these cute critters stand to attention in high places – they’re on sentry duty.

 

Jurassic Swamp Walk
Jurassic Swamp Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few other features of Tasmania Zoo that it would be remiss of me not to mention. They have a lovely array of farm animals, for instance. They also have dinosaurs… large, plastic dinosaurs! The Jurassic Swamp walk is a bit weird, to be honest, with screeching reptilian noises blasting at you from hidden speakers, but I enjoyed the walk nonetheless! Tasmania Zoo also play an active role in conserving several species that are endangered or threatened, including the Tasmanian devils.

 

What to Bring

Flat out with the Tassie devils!
Flat out with the Tassie devils! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather appropriate clothing: hats in summer; raincoats in the wet; woollies in the winter. You’ll also need sturdy shoes because you’ll be on your feet all day and you’re out and about in dusty or muddy areas too. Bring your own water bottle and snacks so that you can enjoy a cheaper day and not have to rush back to the cafe every time you get the munchies.

Getting There

Meerkats
Meerkats © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tasmanian Zoo just outside of Riverside in northern Tasmania. From Launceston, head to the West Tamar Road/Highway then take a left onto Ecclestone Road, continuing until you reach the zoo. It’ll take you about 25 minutes to drive from Launceston’s CBD to Tasmania Zoo. Alternatively, there are back-roads from the Bass Highway that you can take if you are travelling from Devonport.

Cost

Tassie Devil
Tassie Devil © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For your $28 per adult (16+), $15 per child and $25 per concession, you’ll receive access to the zoo including its free barbeque facilities, playground and jumping pillow. You could also opt to pay $17.50 per child for a lovely catered birthday party (minimum group sizes apply). I highly recommend paying the $20 extra for an animal encounter! There’s also a café and a gift shop or you can bring your own food and fun. It’s not a cheap day out for a family but it is one that you’ll remember for a long time. I have not yet forgotten the sound of a Tassie devil eating a chook!!! I have many pleasant memories too and I look forward to returning to Tasmania Zoo in the future.

 

Enjoyed the read? Read more about my travels in Tassie’s north, north west, midlands or central highlands. Travelling further afield? I’ve also traversed Tasmania’s east coast, south and west coast.

Tailrace Park

Traversing Tailrace Park
River Views
River Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is such a delight to find one of Tasmania’s hidden gems. This is, admittedly, a very small gem but it is beautiful nonetheless. And it is hidden. Even Google maps haven’t discovered it yet, or at least not the boardwalk part of it! I’ve been out to Tamar Island several times but what I didn’t realise is that there is another boardwalk that leads you out onto the Tamar River. The Tailrace Park has its own version, allowing you to emerge from the dense tree-line onto the river proper.

Yacht
Yacht © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

As the name suggests, Tailrace Park is located next to a tailrace, this one from the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. I find the tailrace itself fascinating and beautiful. First, you’ll see a recently constructed embankment beneath the road. The turbulence of the tailrace eroded the previous embankment away, such is the force of moving water. Next, you’ll spy a yacht or two as well as pelicans. We talked to someone who spotted a seal in the water just after we had visited. I guess it’s a great place for a seal spa bath!

Flora
Flora © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you reach Tailrace Park proper, keep left (you’ll need to head around the boatshed though) and you’ll find the boardwalk. This leads through the scrub and trees to a picnic table with more views of the tailrace. Walk on and you’ll find yourself on the river’s edge. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the place where the bush meets the water. This part of the river reminds me of the west coast.

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also spot some lovely sights such as the new Silos Hotel (if you look hard!) and the old shipyards. Both speak of Launceston’s past as a port. You’ll understand, when you look down at the deep mud beneath your feet, that the port’s heyday was always going to end at some point.

Tailrace Park
Tailrace Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of the boardwalk, you’ll emerge back into Tailrace Park. I must admit that I was tempted to have a go on the very tall slide. If you’ve brought some snags, you can cook them on one of the Rotary sponsored public barbecues.

Getting There

Walk
Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tailrace Park on West Tamar Road, opposite the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. It is about 5 – 10 minutes’ drive from Launceston’s CBD or a leisurely one hour walk. There is ample on-site free parking.

Cost

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Free parking, barbeques, picnic tables, a park, slides, a boardwalk, wildlife, river views… You’ll have a lot of fun for zero cost at Tailrace Park. My only regret was that I had to leave! Enjoy one Tasmania’s lovely free parks.

Read on for more adventures in Tassie’s north, midlands or north-west or take your journey one step further and cruise the Tamar River. Looking for another free, short walk? Try nearby Cataract Gorge Reserve or Tamar Island.

East Beach

Traversing East Beach
Low Head Lighthouse
Low Head Lighthouse © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I visited East Beach last week for a quick swim on a hot day. When I arrived, I realised how much I’d forgotten about the location. For one, I’d forgotten that Low Head Lighthouse is visible from the beach. I had also forgotten that there is a giant sand dune at the other end of the beach. As if all of this wasn’t enough, East Beach faces onto Bass Strait. Whichever way you look, it’s a spectacular sight.

Dunes
Dunes © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

East beach is a surf beach. This might make you think twice about going there, particularly with kids, but it is a great beach for swimming. While I was there, kids in floaties swam in the surf with their dad and a toddler played with his father in the shallows. The water was warm and clear, the waves were gentle and the sun shone brightly. I would return there in a heartbeat.

Pebbles
Lichen and Pebbles © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The beach is also good for exploring. Lichen-covered rocks (like those found at Bay of Fires) can be found at the lighthouse end of East Beach, along with many interesting pebbles and shells. The  dunes are rich with coastal flora and a good walk along the shore will take you to the impressively tall sand dunes.

What to Bring

Dunes
Dunes © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For an enjoyable day at any beach, always check the weather and wear appropriate clothing. In winter, you’ll need to rug up as the coast can be cold. In summer, bring your bathers so that you can go for a swim (the water is beautiful!) and wear sunscreen and protective clothing. You won’t find a store nearby so bring some food and water. Low Head Pilot Station is three minutes’ drive away and has a café if you’d prefer that.

Getting There

East Beach
East Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

East Beach is about 45 minutes’ drive north of Launceston. Stay on the East Tamar Highway until it turns into Low Head Road. Turn right when you reach Gunn Parade (or East Beach Road – they create a loop). You’ll find ample parking at the beach near the picnic area.

Cost

East Beach Tourist Park
East Beach Tourist Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As with all public beaches in Tasmania, you can access the beach for free. East Beach has a basic toilet and change-room block available for public use. You can also use the adjacent picnic table and barbecue facilities. Nearby East Beach Tourist Park has wood carvings on display that are sure to entertain the kids. Enjoy your day!

On your way to or from East Beach, I recommend visiting Low Head Pilot Station and Lighthouse, the Bass & Flinder’s Centre and Watch House at George Town and Hillwood Berry Farm. I’ve also visited several other places in Tasmania’s north and on the east coast – happy travels!