Convicts Archives - Traversing Tasmania

June 16, 2018

Stanley

Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach — Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

May 6, 2018May 20, 2018

The Ship That Never Was

The Ship That Never Was is Australia’s longest running theatre show. You can watch it every night at 5:30pm in Strahan. The play is performed by The Round Earth Company and was written by historian Richard Davey about the fate of The Frederick. This was the last ship that was built by convicts in the shipyards at nearby Sarah Island. Historic? Yes. Boring? No way! I haven’t laughed so hard in a long time! This play is a masterpiece.

Ship Building © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I thought that a historic story would be a little dated, perhaps even snooze-inducing, but our convicts were entertaining rapscallions. In the hands of a gifted writer, their lives are a comedic tragedy. The Ship That Never Was is a poignant, laugh-out-loud tale that simultaneously allows you to experience part of Macquarie Harbour’s history. You’ll be on the edge of your seat, waiting to hear what happened to our intrepid crew.

The Round Earth Company © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I found the actors highly entertaining. A two-person troupe, they engage the audience at every step. You never know – you might even be one of the stars of The Ship That Never Was! One of the two actors was our guide the following day on our tour of Sarah Island (as part of the Gordon River Cruise) and showed us the shipyards where part of the play is set.

You’ll be amazed by the set of The Ship That Never Was. We walked past the Richard Davey Amphitheatre earlier in the day, peered in and couldn’t really make sense of it. I would tell you what happens but it’s rather lovely to watch it coming together (and breaking apart) for yourself.

Getting There

The Ship That Never Was is performed in the Richard Davey Amphitheatre in summer (September to May) and runs as a film at the Risby Cove Theatrette in winter (June to August). Both venues are located on The Esplanade in Strahan and are a few minutes’ drive apart. There are coverings over the bleachers in the amphitheatre so you’ll be perfectly comfortable in the outdoor arena, even if the weather isn’t great. There is free parking at Risby Cove but paid parking only near the Richard Davey Amphitheatre (unless you’re happy to take a short walk uphill).

Cost

To see the summertime live performance, you’ll pay $25 per adult, $20 per concession, $12.50 per student and $2.50 per child (4 – 12 years old). Prices are much cheaper to see the film in winter. You can find up-to-date pricing here. You may think that this is expensive but it really isn’t. I would be VERY surprised if you didn’t want to go back the following night for a second viewing! I wanted to. Bring cash to purchase one of the interpretive booklets at the end of the play. It was wonderful to be a small part of Australia’s theatre history for an evening.

Staying a while? Read more about my adventures in Strahan and on the west coast.

February 10, 2018February 10, 2018

The Penitentiary

Clock Tower © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The Penitentiary in Hobart is a time capsule. At one point during the tour, I found myself thinking, “Where am I?” The guide’s descriptions and the beautifully preserved location took me to another place, another time. If you haven’t visited The Penitentiary, put it on your list of things to do. It’s fantastic!

Hobart’s landscape once looked very different. In the early 1800s, shiploads of convicts arrived in the town and required sorting. The Penitentiary, affectionately known as The Tench, was built for this purpose. Later, it was used as a gaol, with a public chapel and gallows. You won’t find much of it left but what does remain will amaze you.

Broad Arrow © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On arriving at The Penitentiary, you’ll see the lovely clock tower. We even heard it chime – it was about a minute out but that’s pretty good for a clock that’s nearly 200 years old! You’ll also see the red brick of one of the original curved walls. It’s a lovely architectural feature but it’s even more fascinating when you run your hands over the broad arrows and thumbprints left by the convicts who made the bricks.

Inside the gates, you’ll see the shadowy outlines of the doors into the solitary confinement cells. Inside the building, stand inside a cell with the door shut. Our guide was very kind and kept it shut only for a few moments. You’ll then see the remains of the original chapel, which was converted to courtrooms when The Penitentiary became a prison.

Courtroom 2 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll journey to the courtrooms like a prisoner, through underground tunnels. What an experience! Popping up inside the historic dock really threw me! It felt like I could have been in England or perhaps back in the courtroom’s heyday. Your tour ends with a sobering visit to the gallows (and some grisly tales from your guide). The Penitentiary is not a pleasant place but it is strangely beautiful and exceedingly fascinating.

What to Bring

Courtroom 1 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bring your camera but leave everything else in the car or the museum office. Some of the tour is outside, so you’ll need to wear appropriate clothing for the season. I imagine that the guides whisk you inside the building quickly if the weather is too extreme.

Getting There

The Tench © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find The Penitentiary on the corner of Campbell and Brisbane Streets in Hobart. It’s a short drive or walk from the CBD. Make use of the limited visitor parking in a small carpark behind the building on Brisbane Street. If you miss out on this, you’ll have to pay for street parking (there are two-hour spots in Brisbane Street).

Cost

There is no cost to view the two museum rooms, the tour waiting room and the gift shop. You’ll learn a lot about The Penitentiary but you can’t see the historic site properly unless you do a guided tour. Tours cost $20 per adult, $15 concession, $12 per child or $40 for families. Make sure that you arrive in time to book a tour. Tours depart at 1pm and 2:30pm everyday and also at 10am and 11:30am on weekdays (it is closed on public holidays). Your tour will last for approximately 90 minutes but can go longer (we had booked tickets at the State Cinema and missed the last few minutes of our tour). Thank you to the National Trust for making yet another historic site come alive!

If you’re in the area for a while, there are many other fantastic places to visit in Tasmania’s south.

December 15, 2017April 25, 2018

Mount Nelson Signal Station

Signalmans Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

What do Tasmanians like to do on the weekend? Find sunshine, good food, stunning views and a little bit of adventure. The great thing is that you don’t have to travel far to do this in Tasmania. Mount Nelson Signal Station is only a short drive (or a few hours’ walk!) from Hobart’s CBD. Last weekend, I visited the historic site.

Mount Nelson Signal Station offers similar views to kunanyi/Mount Wellington but is much closer to the city. Yes, you’re not as high up but you do have a lovely view of the river and the temperature is warmer. In summer, sit out in the sun on a beanbag (perhaps with your dog). In winter, sit on the enclosed verandah of the Signal Station Brasserie. This was formerly the Signalmans Cottage and was built in 1897.

After you’ve soaked in the sun, there’s more to explore. The Mount Nelson Signal Station lookout house (built in 1910 to replace the 1811 original) hosts a very small but lovely display of historic items. You’ll find signal flags, an Ericsson wall telephone and a semaphore mechanism, as well as other historic artefacts. You’ll also learn more about the story of the signal station. Although its 24+ metre mast has been dismantled and its last message was “forgotten”, the site is not. The lookout house is very picturesque. Take time to admire its round roof, pressed metal ceiling and 180-degree view of the River Derwent.

There are two lookout platforms at the Mount Nelson Signal Station site. Due to the growth of surrounding trees, you’ll get better views from the carpark! Look up at kunanyi/Mount Wellington or down at the Tasman Bridge and Hobart. If you’ve got a spare few hours, you can even walk down to Sandy Bay or Taroona.

Getting There

View from inside © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Mount Nelson Signal Station is at the upper end of Nelson Road. You can reach it by driving up Mount Nelson from Sandy Bay. This road has several hairpin bends but allows you to see a bit of the history of the area via the houses that line the road. Alternatively, drive out of Hobart towards Kingston on the Southern Outlet or Proctor’s Road, turning left for Mount Nelson at the top of the hill. Whichever road you take, the station is approximately ten minutes’ drive from Hobart’s CBD. There is ample parking on site.

Cost

Signal Station Brasserie © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There is no cost to visit Mount Nelson Signal Station. Completing the walks is also free. There are public toilets and barbeques available for use or you can visit the Signal Station Brasserie. The lookout house is open from 9am – 4pm on weekends (or 10am – 4pm on weekdays).

If you’re staying in the area for a while, I’ve got more ideas for adventures in Tasmania’s south.

December 2, 2017

Convict Farm Walk

Suspension Bridge © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Last weekend, we did the Convict Farm Walk between Woolmers and Brickendon estates in Longford. At 45 minutes one way, it’s a relatively short walk through fields with some interesting sights along the way. Being able to walk between the two estates was a treat as I really like both of them.

View from Woolmers © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We set out from Woolmers, out the back gate of the Main House, following signs for the Convict Farm Walk. Here, you’ll have sweeping views of the plains below and the mountains in the distance. You can see Brickendon Farm Village below as a small cluster of buildings. Even if you don’t have time to do the walk, stand on the hillside and take in the view!

Pump House © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

At the bottom of the hill, you’ll reach and river and the suspension bridge that spans it. This is open from 9am – 5pm daily. You won’t be able to bring prams, wheelchairs, etc. over the bridge as it is very narrow. It was a lot of fun to walk across its two spans, swinging above the water. Look up and down the river as there are some great views to be had of the pump house from the bridge.

Through the fields © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

From here, it’s about two and a half kilometres to Brickendon. You’ll pass a clay pit (now grassed over) and interpretive signs about the lives and work of the convicts. Take in the views of the Great Western Tiers to your left and the mountains (Ben Lomond, Mount Barrow, etc.) to your right. Walking through wheat stalks and watching the farm in operation was also intriguing. We passed a field of sheep bleating a constant chorus of “maaaaaa!!!” It is an amusing experience to be under surveillance by sheep!!

Take the five-minute detour to the jetty. There’s a lot of serenity with the pump going… watch The Castle if you don’t know what I mean! It is a lovely feeling to be by the water though, watching it flowing past on its way to Longford. From here, it’s a short stroll to Brickendon Farm Village.

At Brickendon Farm Village, you’ll find photogenic historic buildings and a whole lot of animals! We said hello to a white horse, large cows, turkeys, geese, ducks, chickens, a pig and, best of all, Spring lambs!!! They were just gorgeous! It took us a long time to leave! One of the staff members spent some time with us, introducing us to the lambs, which was lovely. From the Farm, you can walk on to the homestead at Brickendon (which is a private residence) and surrounding gardens. We chose to head back to Woolmers.

What to Bring

Woolmers Estate © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll need good walking shoes as, between the two estates and the walk, you’ll spend 3+ hours on your feet. The suspension bridge would also be difficult to cross in inappropriate footwear. Depending on the season, you’ll also need sun protection and/or waterproof clothing. Carry basic first aid supplies, a little bit of food and plenty of water with you. There is a café at Woolmers to relax in and plenty of places to sit down at both ends of the walk.

Getting There

Convict Farm Walk from Brickendon © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You can begin the Convict Farm Walk at either estate. Both are about a two-minute drive out of Longford or you can turn into Woolmers Lane directly from the Midlands Highway. You’ll find ample free, all-day parking at both sites. Ask staff at reception for directions to the start of the track.

Cost

White Horse © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

If you just wanted to do the Convict Farm Walk, and not look at either site, you could probably do the walk for free. I paid for a self-guided tour of the historic sites at both ends as I like to support local enterprises. Both are worth having a good look around, even if you’ve been before, as they are quite different in each season. Make sure that you tell the receptionist at the second site that you have come from the first as you’ll then get a discount. It cost us $24 per adult to visit both sites and do the Convict Farm Walk, which I think is very reasonable!

Enjoy your time at Woolmers and Brickendon! I’ve visited several places in Tasmania’s nearby midlands, north and central highlands if you’re interested in more ideas for your own adventures.

November 26, 2017December 2, 2017

Woolmers Estate

If I could sit all day on the verandah beneath the wisteria at Woolmers Estate, I would. Winter is an excellent time to visit as the purple of the wisteria contrasts beautifully with the house. I thought that I had missed out this year but I managed to see a tiny patch of wisteria on the last weekend in Spring!

Also in bloom in Spring are the roses. Woolmers Estate is home to the magnificent National Rose Garden. If you don’t yet know your David Austins from your… well… other roses, you’ll find that a rose has many names and not all smell as sweet! The vast collection deserves a good half-hour stroll through. Old and young alike will also enjoy finding the flash of orange in the pond at the bottom of the garden.

The Wool Shed and the Cider Shed © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Woolmers Estate is a fabulous place to visit at any time of the year. Even if the flowers aren’t blooming, you could spend many hours exploring the grounds and historic buildings. These include the Blacksmith’s Shop, Stables and Servants’ Kitchen (now a café). You can even stay in some of the historic buildings. My favourite building is the picturesque Wool Shed. Treasures I’ve found around the property are the turret-like smoking room in the garden, a “twin thunder box” in the garden wall, a tiny vintage car and the wine cellar. Soon, Woolmers will also boast a first-rate function centre and restaurant.

Servants' Kitchen — Servants’ Kitchen © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Listed Convict Site, Woolmers was once the home of six generations of Thomas Archer. Established in approximately 1817, the buildings show the fullness of the lives of the Archers. You’ll learn about their innovation, successes (one played golf in the Australian Open) and tragedies. Unlike nearby Brickendon, which was founded by Thomas Archer I’s brother, William, Woolmers is no longer a working farm. This is because Thomas Archer VI was a recluse who had no children, leaving the property as a time-capsule for future generations to enjoy. While I’m very thankful for this, it’s quite a poignant realisation that such an inventive line of the Archer family is no more.

The Main House © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You must tour the house. This will cost more, and your guide will most likely take you through very slowly (my husband can’t stand this!), but you won’t fully understand the family until you view their private quarters. You’ll notice many points of difference between this house and others like it. Keep an eye out for the crockery set with the family crest (a bear paw holding an arrow), the shutters to protect from bush-rangers, the camera collection, the servants’ bell and the lack of mid-ceiling electric lighting. The latter was so that the aesthetics of the rooms would not be marred by the newfangled invention of electricity. This was a family who paved their own way.

Getting There

Woolmers is located just south of Longford. You can reach it from the Midlands Highway, about five minutes’ drive south of Perth (Woolmers Estate is well signposted). Alternatively, drive through Longford down Wellington Street and Woolmers Lane until you reach the estate. You’ll enjoy driving down the hedged country lanes.

Cost

Function Centre © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Current prices are $14 per adult or $32 for a family for self-guided tours. You’ll pay $20 per adult, $7 per child or $45 for a family. If this is your first visit to Woolmers, do the house tour. It’s well worth it! Opening hours are 9am – 4pm daily. Note that Woolmers Estate is closed on several public holidays (see their website for more details).

Today, we walked between Woomers and Brickendon. Read about our experience here. You can also explore other places in Tasmania’s midlands – it’s a wonderful part of Tasmania!