Cafe Archives - Traversing Tasmania

November 18, 2018November 18, 2018

Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden

If you want to feel like a child again, visit the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. The hillside forms a natural amphitheatre surrounding several springs. You’ll find the garden covered in gorgeous fauna, sectioned into various culturally-themed garden “rooms”. There are bridges to cross, scents to inhale, colours to admire and many lovely places to rest. Keep an eye out for birds and waterfalls too. Although there are indeed rhododendrons aplenty, chances are that you’ll find your favourite flower somewhere in the garden. We loved walking through the wisteria archways!

We were told that we would need about three hours to see the entire garden. I don’t doubt that this is true as there are many small pathways and areas to explore. It is possible, however to have a quicker visit. If you have less time, head to the Chinese and Japanese gardens first. Make sure that you have a look at the lakes on your way there and back. You might like to ask the staff in the Tearoom for their recommendations too, which will vary according to the season.

Wisteria Archway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden is particularly picturesque in Autumn or Spring. In Spring, you can expect to see living colour everywhere! We visited in late October and the gardens were in full swing. It was incredibly beautiful! You’ll enjoy a magnificent floral display anytime from mid-September to mid-November. I have seen photographs of the gardens in Autumn too and the deciduous trees look resplendent in their yellow, orange and red hues. If you want to know what to expect to see in a particular season, have a look at the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden website here.

What to Bring

Japanese Garden © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I highly recommend bringing a picnic with you to the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, particularly when the garden is in full bloom. You will want to spend as long as possible in your favourite part of the garden so taking a rug and a spread of food with you would be an excellent idea! You can purchase food from the Tearoom overlooking the garden if you prefer. If you have young children with you, do be aware that the lakes are not fenced. You will find places to settle in for a while that are away from the water features though. As always in Tasmania, wear sturdy shoes and weather-appropriate clothing. On a hot day, I recommend visiting earlier in the morning as you will have to walk up and down the hillside to see the garden.

Getting There

From Burnie, drive for just over ten minutes towards Romaine via Mount Street or Old Surrey Road until you reach Ridgley Highway. It’s a twisting-turning route through backstreets to the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. It is well signposted though (including on the way out). When you arrive at the gardens proper, you’ll pass through two gateways, one that is open and one that wallaby-proofs the gardens. The second gate will automatically open as your car approaches. Winding down the hill, I was impressed with the flowers and the scenery but it’s just a small taster of what’s to come! You’ll find ample parking at the end of the driveway.

Cost

Tearooms © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll pay $12 per adult and $10 per concession to visit the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. When you see the enormous amount of work that has gone into establishing, maintaining and extending the gardens, you’ll understand what a bargain that is! I certainly would gladly pay the entry fee again, just to see the garden in a different season. The Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden is open daily (excluding Christmas Day and Good Friday) from 9am – 5pm with the Tearoom open from 10am – 4pm (closed from Christmas to New Years’ Day). Enjoy!

Staying a while? Visit other attractions on the north west coast or on the not-too-distant west coast.

November 5, 2018

Table Cape Tulip Farm

"Irrigation Piping Run Over by Tractor" — “Irrigation Piping Run Over by Tractor” © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you arrive at Table Cape Tulip Farm, you may wonder what you’re in for. It is a farm, so you’ll see machinery (including a shed full of historic bits and bobs), mud and mayhem. This year, I noticed piping artfully decorating one of the shed walls – a man walking by us aptly named it “irrigation piping that has been run over by a tractor”. This is the kind of place that Table Cape Tulip Farm is: an honest-to-goodness working farm.

Tulip Field © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll soon realise why locals and tourists flock here in droves each Spring. Firstly, Table Cape Tulip Farm is in an incredible location. You’ll wind your way up from Wynyard to the top of the cape. From here, the farm boasts views of the historic Table Cap Lighthouse and Bass Strait. On top of this windswept plateau, colourful fields of tulips bloom for the month of October. It is a sight to behold! This year, the field in bloom (which is rotated annually) didn’t have views of the lighthouse but the tulips did not disappoint.

Treasure © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The sight of a patch-work field of living colour stretching up over the hill is breathtaking. Even better is walking between the colourful rows. There are many special treasures hidden in the tulip fields: choosing your favourite bloom, spying an “odd-one-out” (a lone white tulip in a row of red, for instance) or even finding a tulip-painted rock! Of course, people-watching is also fun. Apparently, the thing to do this year was to bring your dog along for a great Instagram photo-shoot!! If you visit during the Bloomin’ Tulips Festival, you can pay to have your portrait taken by a professional photographer.

Tiptoe through the Tulips © emily.j@traversingtasmania 2018

The main business of Table Cape Tulip Farm is selling tulips but you won’t find many for sale during Spring. Why? Because they sell bulbs! The farm’s flower-selling season is at a completely different time of the year. Head to Van Diemen Quality Bulbs’ site for a peek at what’s on offer. One of my favourite things to do when I visit Table Cape Tulip Farm is to choose a few new varieties of tulips and daffodils to order for my garden. If you’re not fortunate to live in a tulip-friendly climate, you’ll at least have memories and photos to cherish.

What to Bring

Tulip Shed © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I always say to wear sturdy shoes when you go out and about in Tasmania, but you actually don’t have to at Table Cape Tulip Farm! If you want, you can swap your fashion shoes for a pair of sturdy blue gum boots, for free. If the ground is wet, this is particularly important as the north west coast features some of Tasmania’s richest dirt and it sticks in giant clods to your footwear! As always, do dress appropriately for the weather conditions. You’ll stay longer than you had imagined in the field of tulips and can end up frozen or sunburnt. If you’re particularly unlucky, you might end up both frozen AND burnt; it does happen in Tasmania! The farm has amenities and a small café. I highly recommend Café Umami in Wynyard, particularly for those with dietary requirements.

Getting There

Table Cape Tulip Farm is a 5-minute drive from Wynyard in Tasmania’s north west. There is plenty of parking at the farm but you are parking in a field so it’s not necessarily a smooth drive. Remember that visitor numbers swell enormously during the Bloomin’ Tulips Festival so arrive early for a park that is closer to the main attraction. The farm is open from 9am – 4:30pm daily when the flowers are in bloom (late September to late October each year). You can visit at other times of the year to buy bulbs if you phone ahead but it really is worth visiting when the flowers are in their full splendour.

Cost

The rather wonderful thing about Table Cape Tulip Farm is that kids (under 16 years old) are free! Adults cost $12 per person in 2018 ($10 per concession or $8 per student). You can purchase bulbs and gift items from the shop or treats from the café. You can also order the bulbs online if you’d prefer. Apart from your entry fee, though, the main “cost” will be displaying your gorgeous photos… Enjoy!

Staying a while? There’s plenty to do in Tasmania’s north west or, further afield, west coast and north.

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

June 16, 2018

Stanley

Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach — Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

June 10, 2018

The Nut

The Nut. An awe-inspiring volcanic plug. A stunning backdrop for photos of Stanley. A pleasant stroll? Listed as one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, the hike up to the top is no mean feat! With views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape, Table Cape and Highfield House, The Nut will quite literally take your breath away.

Tatlows Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Nut is a unique rock formation in the town of Stanley, north west Tasmania. It rises 143 metres and is a little bit like Uluru: a giant rock that appears seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Originally named Circular Head (which is now the name of the surrounding region), it was possibly called The Nut after its Tasmanian Aboriginal name, munatrik, or perhaps because not even explosives could make a dent in it.

What’s up there? You’ll find a circuit track, a Parks and Wildlife reading room, Stanley trig point and a surprising array of flora and fauna. My favourite way to do the 2.3 km circuit is to head left through the button grass first. I love to gaze out at Bass Strait and pinmatik/Rocky Cape National Park.

As you begin to go around the opposite side, you’ll have views of Smithton, Tatlows Beach, Stanley, and even directly down to the fisherman’s wharf. You’ll find fenced lookouts and plenty of benches to sit on. The most unexpected sight is a forested fairy-tale grove, replete with pademelon and even picnic tables to sit on and enjoy the serenity. You won’t want to leave!

What to Bring

Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes for climbing up and down The Nut. You’ll need a small bottle of water too. There are picnic tables at the top (turn right onto the circuit path if you want to reach them faster) so you could bring some food with you. We generally just walk the circuit, take in the views and then descend to Stanley.

Getting There

Views of pinmatik/Rocky Cape © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Drive for two and a half hours from Launceston along the Bass Highway. Stanley is well-signposted. When in Stanley, you can drive to The Nut via Browns Road (accessed via Marshall Street or Harrison Terrace). There is ample parking at the base of The Nut. Alternatively, you can park in Church Street and walk to The Nut directly from town, via a pathway between 50 and 54 Alexander Terrace.

Cost

Tatlows Beach and beyond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is free and fabulous exercise to walk up The Nut. The chairlift runs in the warmer months. Prices are $16 return and $10 one way for adults. For children, you’ll pay $10 return and $5 one way. Note that the chairlift is closed over winter and can close at any time of the year due to poor weather. If you have health issues that affect your mobility, walking up and down The Nut might be a bit taxing. I would recommend waiting for a non-winter, calm day on which to take the chairlift instead. Whichever way you ascend The Nut, you’ll be glad you’ve made the effort. The Nut’s geology, flora, fauna and views are incredible. Enjoy!

Want more information? Do another of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. Visit, in person or vicariously, Tasmania’s north west, west coast or north. Travelling further afield? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands.

June 5, 2018

Tasmania Zoo

Pygmy Marmoset © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There’s something lovely about Tasmania Zoo. Primarily, it’s the location, on a gorgeous bush block. I also enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and the ingenuity of the play equipment and fences. With one set of my grandparents being animal activists, animals in cages can make me uneasy but I’d visit Tasmania Zoo again – they’re doing good work there.

Nestled in the rolling hills that ring the Meander Valley, Tasmania Zoo has stellar views of the Great Western Tiers. You might want to just stand in the carpark and look west for a while. It’s beautiful. When you finally do enter the zoo, it’s surrounded by native bushland. All of this makes for a tranquil setting.

Wildlife © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you enter Tasmania Zoo, you’ll be greeted by friendly staff. I highly recommend booking an animal encounter along with your entry ticket. The extra dollars paid just to hold a wombat, for example, might seem pricey but you won’t regret it when you have that bundle of furry goodness in your arms! The friendliness continues with a welcome “Hello!” from a resident cockatoo. You might even find yourself standing next to a wallaby, like we did! It’s a very welcoming environment.

Playground © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Sustainability is clearly a focus for the staff at Tasmania Zoo. Barriers have been made from recycled gas bottles and tyres. Our friends’ kids loved the tractor tyre cum roundabout in the playground! I found myself simultaneously admiring the animals and inventiveness of some of the enclosures.

Sentry Duty © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Animals. That’s why we go to zoos. Standouts for me were the meerkats, the pygmy marmosets and the Tasmanian devils. Time your visit right and you’ll get to see the meerkats fed as you enter and the devils fed as you leave (or vice versa). As always with a good zoo, you’ll come away understanding more about the animals. As an eagle circled overhead and the guide explained meerkat behaviour, I understood why these cute critters stand to attention in high places – they’re on sentry duty.

Jurassic Swamp Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few other features of Tasmania Zoo that it would be remiss of me not to mention. They have a lovely array of farm animals, for instance. They also have dinosaurs… large, plastic dinosaurs! The Jurassic Swamp walk is a bit weird, to be honest, with screeching reptilian noises blasting at you from hidden speakers, but I enjoyed the walk nonetheless! Tasmania Zoo also play an active role in conserving several species that are endangered or threatened, including the Tasmanian devils.

What to Bring

Flat out with the Tassie devils! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather appropriate clothing: hats in summer; raincoats in the wet; woollies in the winter. You’ll also need sturdy shoes because you’ll be on your feet all day and you’re out and about in dusty or muddy areas too. Bring your own water bottle and snacks so that you can enjoy a cheaper day and not have to rush back to the cafe every time you get the munchies.

Getting There

Meerkats © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tasmanian Zoo just outside of Riverside in northern Tasmania. From Launceston, head to the West Tamar Road/Highway then take a left onto Ecclestone Road, continuing until you reach the zoo. It’ll take you about 25 minutes to drive from Launceston’s CBD to Tasmania Zoo. Alternatively, there are back-roads from the Bass Highway that you can take if you are travelling from Devonport.

Cost

Tassie Devil © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For your $28 per adult (16+), $15 per child and $25 per concession, you’ll receive access to the zoo including its free barbeque facilities, playground and jumping pillow. You could also opt to pay $17.50 per child for a lovely catered birthday party (minimum group sizes apply). I highly recommend paying the $20 extra for an animal encounter! There’s also a café and a gift shop or you can bring your own food and fun. It’s not a cheap day out for a family but it is one that you’ll remember for a long time. I have not yet forgotten the sound of a Tassie devil eating a chook!!! I have many pleasant memories too and I look forward to returning to Tasmania Zoo in the future.

Enjoyed the read? Read more about my travels in Tassie’s north, north west, midlands or central highlands. Travelling further afield? I’ve also traversed Tasmania’s east coast, south and west coast.