Bay of Fires

Sunrise, Bay of Fires
Bay of Fires
Bay of Fires © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bay of Fires was named by explorer Tobias Furneaux who sailed by in 1773 and saw the fires lit by the Aboriginal people. These promoted plant growth and kept mammals, an important food-source, close to the coast. The area continues to be an important place for the Tasmanian Aboriginal community. A large midden at one end of Jeanneret Beach has yielded many Aboriginal artifacts. Another sacred site in the area is larapuna (Eddystone Point), which is also a large midden. Respect these sacred sites by adhering to signage and fencing.

Binalong Bay
Binalong Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Today, the Bay of Fires is renowned for granite rocks covered with fiery orange lichen. It is also famous for its pure white sand and turquoise waters.  Due to its unique flora and fauna, the Bay of Fires is a conservation area. You can access approximately half of the coast by car. It is much harder to access the northern half of Bay of Fires in Mount William National Park. You can walk through with local tourism companies or you can sail past like Furneaux. I saw the area from the water on a Bay of Fires Eco Tours cruise, which you can read about here.

Taylors Beach
Taylors Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The southern part of the Bay of Fires Conservation Area stretches from Binalong Bay through to The Gardens and contains several excellent campsites. You can camp here for up to four weeks at a time. Amenities are limited (drop toilets) and you will need to bring your own water but the location is sensational! If you have a motorhome, Swim Cart beach gives you an amazing view and excellent beach access for surf fishing (swimming is not advised). The most popular camping site is Cosy Corner. For more information about camping in the Bay of Fires, see the Parks and Wildlife website.

Shacks, Taylors Beach
Shacks, Taylors Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There are many holiday rentals in Binalong Bay or the area near The Gardens. I’ve found that renting directly from an owner (when possible) is a better experience. There are no general stores in the Bay of Fires area so pick up supplies in nearby St. Helens on your way in. You can purchase a coffee at Moresco Restaurant or the Bay of Fires Eco Tours at Titley’s Shack.

Grants Lagoon
Grants Lagoon © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The beauty of the Bay of Fires is that it is largely uncommercialised. You can cruise the bay (read about my experience here) or do a four-day walking tour departing from Launceston. There is also a viewing platform and information boards at The Gardens. You’ll be swimming, kayaking, fishing, walking the pristine beaches, encountering the wildlife and just taking in one of the most picturesque places on the planet.

Getting There

The Gardens
The Gardens © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bay of Fires is about a three-hour drive from Launceston and a four-hour drive from Hobart. From Launceston or Hobart, take the Midlands Highway to Campbell Town then turn onto the Lake Leake road to the East Coast. Alternatively, drive northeast from Launceston to Scottsdale (via Lilydale or Myrtle Park). If driving from Hobart, you can follow the coast the entire way. Wherever you are travelling from, allow yourself additional time to explore the regions that you are passing through as there are some top-notch attractions along the way.

Cost

Binalong Bay
Binalong Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There is no cost for visiting the southern section of the Bay of Fires Conservation Area from Binalong Bay to The Gardens. If you choose to visit Mount William National Park, you need to have a Parks Pass. You can enjoy the Bay of Fires for a relatively low cost if you are camping or having a day at the beach. Enjoy the pristine waters and beautiful wildlife of the Bay of Fires!

Read about my other journeys on Tasmania’s stunning east coast here.

Bay of Fires Eco Tours

Lichen
Bay of Fires Eco Tours
Bay of Fires Eco Tours © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On a sunny, calm day, we took to the seas in the exquisite Bay of Fires on Infurneaux. The sole ship in the Bay of Fires Eco Tours fleet, it is luxurious! The seats are very comfy, which doesn’t sound too important, but it will be once you’ve been sitting for three hours! We were provided with warm, waterproof jackets.

Bay of Fires Eco Tours
Bay of Fires Eco Tours © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

To prepare for your journey, limit your cups of tea beforehand! I had one too many and needed to use the loo on board. While I can now tick that off my bucket list, it’s probably best if you don’t need to use it at all! Another thing that you need to be aware of is that, while it might be a hot day on the sand, it’s always much colder out on the water. Wear layers (lovely Tasmanian merino is a great idea) but don’t wear a hat as it may end up overboard. If you think that your head might get cold, wear a hooded jacket or jumper. Even though the boat has a canopy, I would also recommend wearing sunscreen due to the sun, wind and spray. If you experience sea-sickness, see my Bruny Island Cruises post for tips from the Ancient Mariner (Dad).

Aboriginal Midden, Jeanneret Beach
Aboriginal Midden, Jeanneret Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Your journey through the Bay of Fires will take you up the coast, showing you a range of beaches and sites. The Aboriginal midden (bone and shell heap) at the end of Jeanneret Beach is enormous and it’s a privilege to see it from offshore. You’ll also have a few opportunities to take stellar photographs of the lichen-covered granite rocks from the sea. Our guide paused to show us various bird life, including a gorgeous sea eagle and several black-crested cormorants. We sailed very close to Sloop Rock (named so because it looks like a ship rising up out of the water). This rock plunges 18 metres down to the ocean floor and is quite a sight to behold. The best part of the tour, in my opinion, is seeing Mount William National Park. The park is quite hard to get to so it was very special to see Anson’s Bay, the Park’s pristine beaches, Bay of Fires Lodge, Eddystone Point Lighthouse and Mount William itself from the water.

 

Eddystone Point Lighthouse
Eddystone Point Lighthouse © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

At larapuna (the Aboriginal name for the area where Eddystone Point Lighthouse stands), you’ll have the opportunity for a complimentary biscuit and a fabulous photo of the Lighthouse and the Keeper’s Cottages. After this, you’ll take to the open waters in search of wildlife.

 

Shy Albatross
Shy Albatross © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We saw three shy albatross (one of which wasn’t shy at all and posed for several pictures!) on the return journey. These birds are beautiful. We also encountered a lone seal who was a bit annoyed that we were interrupting his meal. Pufferfish, anyone? It was then a lovely boat-ride, with only a pot-hole or two, back to base.

Brown Fur Seal
Brown Fur Seal © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

 

Getting There

Titley's Shack, Binalong Bay
Titley’s Shack, Binalong Bay © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For instructions on how to get to the Bay of Fires, read my post about the region. Once you’ve made it to St. Helens, follow signs for Binalong Bay and then drive along the coast, past Moresco Restaurant, until you reach Titley’s Shack on the left (look for Bay of Fires Eco Tours signage).

 

Cost

Sloop Rock
Sloop Rock © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As for similar cruises in Tasmania such as Bruny Island Cruises (you can read about my experience here), adults cost $135, children (5-years-old and above) cost $85 and a family costs $380. There are two shorter afternoon cruises which cost slightly less. It would be fabulous to see the small seal colony at St. Helens Island and I am considering doing this tour in the future. I recommend doing the full Bay of Fires tour instead of The Gardens tour, if time permits. Seeing Eddystone Point Lighthouse is well worth it!

To read about my other journeys on Tasmania’s stunning east coast, click here.