Ocean Beach

Traversing Ocean Beach
View from Ocean Beach Lookout
View from Ocean Beach Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ocean Beach is a 30+ km beach highway (for the right vehicle at the right time of day). You’ll see towering sand dunes, rolling waves and white, white sand. It’s a wild place. Just to give you can idea of how untamed it is, Ocean Beach lies between Hell’s Gates in the south and Trial Harbour in the north. Both places were named to let other travellers know what to expect in these waters: great difficulty!

Beach Highway
Beach Highway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You can drive onto Ocean Beach with a 4WD vehicle at several points. We entered the beach at Macquarie Heads. Macquarie Heads is particularly picturesque with views of historic lighthouses, fisherman’s cottages and rock walls as well as the dangerous Hell’s Gates passage out of Macquarie Harbour. It was a delight to drive in the blue water of our GPS screen while safely on Ocean Beach!

Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

While I was walking by the waves at Ocean Beach Lookout, Mr. Traversing Tasmania tried to get the 4WD down the track to the shore but decided that he wasn’t brave enough! Ask locals for advice about when and where to access the beach. Note that there are two river mouths to cross and that you can get bogged. That’s not on my list of things to do while on holiday!

What to Bring

Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on driving your 4WD along Ocean Beach, bring recovery equipment and let someone know where you’re going and when to expect you back. It also helps to ask locals about which access points are currently safe to use. Bring your fishing gear for use at Macquarie Heads. Note that Ocean Beach is unpatrolled by lifeguards and is too dangerous for swimming. Bring food and water so that you can stay as long as you please and, as always on the west coast, bring clothing appropriate for wet, windy and/or cold weather.

Getting There

View north
View north © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you don’t have a 4WD, you can still enjoy Ocean Beach. Just follow signs from Strahan along C250, Ocean Beach Road. A sign-posted right-hand turn and a short stretch of dirt road will see you arrive at the car park at Ocean Beach Lookout. Here, walk a wild stretch of sand with views of Macquarie Heads to the south or views of Henty Dunes and rugged ranges to the north. Just being beside the ocean is wonderfully restorative. I’m told by the locals that Ocean Beach is also one of the best spots to view the sunset.

Cost

Dunes
Dunes © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Access to Tasmania’s beaches is free! This is something that I don’t take for granted. I do my part by taking all of my rubbish away with me. I also take three additional pieces of rubbish (bottle caps, gum wrappers, fishing line and the like) with me to do my bit for the ocean critters who don’t need waste in their environment. Enjoy the pristine wilderness that is Ocean Beach!

To read about more of my west coast adventures, click here.

Macquarie Heads

Traversing Macquarie Heads
Macquarie Heads
Macquarie Heads © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Macquarie Heads are the headlands that meet at Hell’s gates, the narrow, shallow entrance of Macquarie Harbour. There are loud quad bikes, dirt-bikes and 4WDs everywhere, combined with a crisscross of kids and fishing rods. If you’ve seen the classic Australian film The Castle, you’ll be saying, “Ah, the serenity!” with a smile on your face. Noisy neighbours aren’t your only problem either. As we were walking back from the beach, a tiger snake (that’s a bad one, folks!) silently slithered away from the path. So… don’t go to Macquarie Heads? Well, actually, it was fantastic.

Macquarie Harbour
Macquarie Harbour © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strangely for the west coast, which has an average of 2.4 metres of rain each year, it was a fabulously sunny day. Many took the opportunity to go fishing. A few keen people went for a swim. I was content to paddle and gaze at the view of the harbour, ringed by mountains, and the lighthouses.

Lighthouse
Lighthouse © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are two gorgeous white lighthouses at Macquarie Heads. These have helped sailors to navigate the narrow, shallow passage into the harbour for many years. You’ll also see three fisherman’s cottages (inaccessible by road but apparently available as holiday rentals, accessed via boat). If you know where to look, you can just make out the two rock walls that were created by convicts in the 1800s in an effort to keep the channel deep enough and safe enough to sail through. It’s a photographer’s delight!

What to Bring

Lighthouse
Lighthouse © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It’s the west coast so you’ll need your sunscreen, sunhat, beanie, scarf, gloves and your wet-weather gear. If you’re planning on staying for a few hours or longer, I’d recommend bringing your rod and tackle and trying your hand at catching lunch. You’ll also need to bring your own food, water and firewood (if fires are permitted at the time of year that you visit).

Getting There

Ocean Beach "Road"
Ocean Beach “Road” © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Macquarie Heads is about a twenty-minute drive from Strahan on Macquarie Heads Road. You’ll see clear signs from Strahan. The road is partly sealed, partly dirt and is very picturesque with more views of Macquarie Harbour as well as pine forests. Once you reach the campsite, keep driving until you reach the final car park. You can also drive your 4WD onto the beach if the conditions are right (see my post on Ocean Beach for more on beach driving). Ask locals to show you the best entry to the beach (one is extremely sandy and best avoided).

Cost

Hell's Gates
Hell’s Gates © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Macquarie Heads is free to visit for the day. You’ll find the best smelling bench-seat dunny (toilet) and glorious views. To camp, you’ll pay a small fee but have the benefits of grassed sites, a caretaker, a boat ramp and those views. Next time you’re in Strahan, take the time to see a very historic, very picturesque part of Macquarie Harbour.

Read more about my adventures on Tasmania’s wild west coast.