Traversing Tasmania

October 6, 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course

The Homestead from Hole 15 © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Dodging sheep poo while playing a round of golf probably doesn’t sound like fun but Ratho Farm Golf Course is fantastic. Disclaimer: I don’t play golf. I do, however, spend quality time walking various courses with Mr. Traversing Tasmania and I highly rate Ratho Farm.

A quality that Ratho Farm Golf Course has in bucketloads is entertainment factor. There’s poop to dodge, parts of the Clyde River to navigate, tricky holes to play and, of course, the wildlife. We visited in Spring when the lambs were newly born (or being born, as happened on our last morning there!) and it was lovely to have them as our golfing companions; the course is sheep-grazed in places. We saw a wallaby and heard a peacock.

Even if all the animals go into hiding when you visit, the course itself is enjoyably tricky. The par 70 doesn’t really indicate what lies ahead (the 5.373 km course length gives you a hint though!). What might seem at first to be a straightforward hole can bring you undone if you misplace your shot because you’re liable to land in some “rabbit scrape” (as is noted in the historic rules). Hole 15 is particularly challenging as you need to tee off cleanly to avoid the trees and the river (Mr. Traversing Tasmania succeeded on his second go!). You’ll also have to navigate over (or through) hedges in places. It’s a lot of fun to watch, if not to play!

Australia’s Oldest Golf Course

Teeing off near the Toilet.. — Teeing off near the Toilet… © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course begins and ends at the historic homestead. It’s a beautiful building. You can even hire hickory clubs to really feel part of the setting. When you tee off at the first hole, note the outdoor toilet with removable waste tray – ingenious! Ratho Farm is Australia’s oldest golf course, first created by Scottish settlers to the Central Highlands in the early 1800s. Just playing a round of golf here makes you feel like part of history.

Farm meets Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It’s easy to see why the Scottish Reid family chose this land for a golf course. The Clyde River meanders through the back few holes and gorgeous trees line the course. I also enjoyed the humble farming setting. Someone was burning off across the road, the farm next door had been freshly ploughed and cows and sheep created a chorus with the birds. Bliss! That said, some parts of the course were rough but this only added to the charm.

What to Bring

You can bring your own golf clubs or you can hire a set from Ratho Farm homestead. They even have hickory sets for hire if you’d like to really embrace the heritage of the course. Be prepared to scrape poop off your gear though so don’t bring anything too precious!! As always in Tasmania, be aware of the weather and dress accordingly. The Central Highlands can be very cold and at other times you can end up with a touch of sunburn, speaking from experience!

Getting There

Highland Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course is located in Bothwell in Tasmania’s Central Highlands. You can take the scenic route between Launceston and Hobart via the Central Highlands and stop off for a round of golf. From Hobart, drive up the Midlands Highway, turning left at Melton Mowbray and following signs for Bothwell. It will take you just over an hour to reach Ratho Farm. Alternatively, drive south from Launceston via Longford and Poatina (or Deloraine via Miena), following signs for Bothwell. You’ll travel for over an hour and a half from Deloraine or just under two hours from Launceston. Whichever way you drive, the views are sensational!

Cost

You’ll pay $25 to play nine holes. The back nine are apparently easier than the front nine – take your pick! Alternatively, pay $40 to play all eighteen holes. You can hire a buggy and set of clubs for an extra $15. If you know that you’ll be there for lunch, organise this with Ratho Farm staff in advance as they are very obliging if given enough notice. Enjoy having a hit on Australia’s oldest (and quirkiest?!) golf course.

Interested in visiting Ratho Farm Golf Course? Read my sister post on Ratho Farm (coming soon!). Heading elsewhere in Tasmania? Visit historic Richmond (in the south), Woolmers Estate (in the north) or Stanley (on the north west coast – there’s a lovely golf course there) or have a round of golf at Quamby.

September 24, 2018

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

The Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I love Spring. Winter can drag on in Tasmania and Spring is a welcome relief. Yes, it can be cold or wet (or cold and wet!) but the sunshine and flowers cheer me up no end. So, what do you do on a sunny Saturday in Spring? You head to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, that’s what!

Lily Pond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If, like me, this is your first visit in too long, you’ll notice a few changes. You’ll notice the new “Hub” near the top gate, where you can find assistance, grab a map of the gardens or buy some plants. The lily pond also has a new viewing platform shaped like a series of lily pads. If, like me, the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens brings back a flood of childhood memories, you’ll be pleased to know that the main attractions are still there.

The Fernery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

My first stop is always the lily pond with its beautiful white bridge. There’s many a grand photo to be taken here, particularly in Spring. Next, I head up the hill to the Fernery. My mission as a child was to run up and down the steps around the waterfalls as fast as I could. Now, I just like the serenity.

From here, walk across and then down until you find the floral clock. Look up the hill to the gorgeous arch and then head down the hill to the Rotunda. From here, aim for the gorgeous brick wall. There are toilets to the left or you can head on through to my favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

The Japanese Gardens take serene to a whole new level. You’ll find a compact maze of beauty. This part of the garden is set up as a series of “rooms” joined by a series of cascades and ponds. A special treat for us on Saturday was that the resident kookaburra decided to pose in just about every photo I took of the Japanese Gardens!! As a kid, I absolutely loved walking over the wooden boards, watching the waterwheel turn, crossing the red bridge and clambering up Mount Fuji. You can’t do the latter nowadays but you can still view the mountain, if you can find it! On the way back to the main gardens, stop and admire my favourite fountain. Mr. Traversing Tasmania describes it as a plane wreck but I think that it’s fascinating.

From here, spy Government House through the trees and head back through the brick wall (further up this time). The Tasmanian Community Food Garden is always interesting to view and is a fabulous idea. Mind you, the garden beds stand where my second-favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens used to be: The Cactus House. The cacti have now been relegated to the back part of the community garden but they are still fascinating to look at.

Sub Antarctic Plant House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

On your right, you’ll eventually find the Conservatory. The building is beautiful and there is always a lovely display, no matter what the time of year. Before you enter though, head to a less balmy part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. The Sub-Antarctic Plant House is just up the hill from the Conservatory and it is a blast, literally! You’ll feel the climate and admire the fauna of Macquarie Island. Brace yourself!

2018 is the 200^th anniversary of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. If you haven’t visited the gardens yet, you should. The variety of plants and programs on offer is fabulous. Or, you can ignore all the scientific names and the events and instead do what any sane child would do: just get lost. Around each corner is something new to discover. It’s like finding the walled garden in The Secret Garden.

What to Bring

If you know your way around and have limited time, you can just about squeeze the best of the Gardens into an hour. If you’d like to take your time and explore everything thoroughly, you’ll need at least two hours. This means that you’ll need to ditch your heels and don your trusty walking shoes. You’ll also need weather-appropriate clothing, sun protection and food and water.

Getting There

You’ll find the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is next door to Government House on the Royal Domain. It’s about a five-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD towards the Tasman Bridge. Turn left onto Lower Domain Road once you have passed the Aquatic Centre. There’s plenty of parking on site. You’ll also find a small car park just off Domain Highway if you’re travelling to the Gardens from the eastern shore.

Cost

Through the brick wall © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is via donation. For a relatively cheap family day out, bring your own picnic gear. If you’re hungry and haven’t come prepared, there is a kiosk (Sprout) or the main restaurant (Succulent) to choose from. You can also purchase botanically themed items from the gift shop or a small range of plants from the new “Hub”. I highly recommend the picnic option if the weather is fine as there’s nothing quite like hunting down the perfect picnic spot in the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Nearby attractions include Government House, the Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 8, 2018September 8, 2018

Fossil Cove

Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of a quiet street in the peaceful bushland south of Kingston is a secluded cove: Fossil Cove. There is no designated car park. A simple wooden sign post marks the start of the track. When we arrived, there was only one other car there. Don’t be fooled by the humble beginnings of your journey: Your destination is spectacular.

The track to Fossil Cove is easy to traverse, downhill. You’ll do the hard work on the way back up! There are well-defined stairs. Enjoy strolling through the bush and take time to explore the rock formations beside the track as you descend. I must admit that I rather like seeing the neighbouring properties too. What a place to live! In about fifteen minutes’ time, you’ll find yourself at the top of a staircase, staring out to sea.

Many delights await you. There are rock shelves and pools to explore, shells to find and an archway to walk through at low tide to a neighbouring cove. If you enjoy a spot of fishing, there are fish to be caught. When you sit down on one of the rock shelves, don’t be surprised by what lies beneath you.

Fossils

It’s easy to understand how Fossil Cove got its name. You’ll see for yourself the varied, intricate, multitude of fossils imprinted on the rock shelves. I could spend a long time admiring them. Fish, shells, from eons ago. Look up at your surroundings too. You’ll see a tree, clinging to the clifftop. There are views of the River Derwent, the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island.

What to Bring

The walk to Fossil Cove is a short one (approximately 45 minutes return) but do wear sturdy shoes as the track can be muddy. You never know how long you’ll stay exploring so bring some water and a snack. Check the tide times too. Unless you’re prepared to get very wet and walk on slippery rocks, access through the arch is limited to (very) low tide. Leave your usual beach paraphernalia behind and enjoy a different kind of waterside experience!

Getting There

Blackmans Bay is a 15-minute drive south of Hobart’s CBD via either Taroona (the scenic route) or the Southern Outlet. Once you’re in Blackmans Bay, head south on Tinderbox Road until you reach Fossil Cove Drive. When you reach the end of the cul-de-sac, park your car beside the road and begin your descent to the majestic Fossil Cove.

Cost

Fossil Cove is one of Tassie’s delightful freebies. Pay in kind by staying on the track, taking your litter away with you and leaving the cove’s contents behind for future visitors. Remember to take lots of photos! It is a truly remarkable place.

Nearby attractions include Taroona’s Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 2, 2018September 2, 2018

Waterworks Reserve

Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the west, north, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

August 13, 2018

Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre

Traversing the ruins © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I’ve found another Tasmanian treasure trove: Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre. If you visit, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the ruins (above ground) of the original Tasmania Mine and also to walk around the headframe of the Beaconsfield Gold Mine. Inside, there are several, highly interactive exhibits. View displays of mining equipment, communication equipment, the history of the local area and the stories of the mines, including the 2006 Beaconsfield Mine tragedy and rescue.

Miners' Hut — Miners’ Hut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre taught me a lot. I now know a little bit about how to mine gold and I can tell you now that I won’t be quitting my day job because mining is tough work! Seeing the inventiveness of the miners, particularly in the desperate days of the rescue at Beaconsfield Mine, was astounding. Simple objects become game-changers in the hands of people who need a solution, fast.

The buildings that house the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre are gorgeous. The newer building, while essentially a block, is well-landscaped and the historic shell is very photogenic. You’ll enjoy viewing the historic machinery, telephones and house-hold goods. These have been donated by the local community. Who knew that industrial objects could be beautiful too? You’ll find something fascinating around every corner.

Interactive

Mine Headframe © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The absolute icing on the cake for me was that I was able to interact with most exhibits. From the red phone box, I called Mr Traversing Tasmania on the wall phone. I crawled through a tunnel, played an old piano and tried my hand at moving some of the mining equipment. It turns out that I might need to buff up a bit. Mr Traversing Tasmania also got me with the water wheel. Luckily, I was wearing my raincoat!

Family-Friendly

Machinery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The great thing for families is that you’re allowed to touch almost everything that you can touch. Phew! The precious (or dangerous) items are stored behind barriers or glass. The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre has clearly been planned with kids in mind. There’s a sandpit complete with a family of diggers outside under a veranda. Alternatively, your kids might want to explore an old miners hut. Look for the yellow hand symbols for interactive exhibits.

What to Bring

One of the wonderful things about visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is that you are able to walk through the yard, around the A-frame mineshaft. This does mean, however, that you’re out in the weather. Wear sturdy footwear and weather-appropriate clothes for comfort. I also recommend bringing a picnic lunch to eat in the park opposite. It is a beautifully kept park with play equipment and even a few miners’ huts to look at.

Getting There

Beaconsfield is approximately a 40-minute drive north of Launceston. You can either travel up the East Tamar Highway, crossing the Batman Bridge, or you can travel up the West Tamar Highway. In summer, pick your own berries at Hillwood Berry Farm on the eastern shore or, year-round, stop for a walk at either Tamar Island or Notley Fern Gorge on the eastern shore. Once you reach Beaconsfield, just drive towards the mine shaft. You can’t miss it! You’ll find plenty of parking at the Heritage Centre.

Cost

At $15 per adult, $12 per concession and $5 per child (children under 5 are free), visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is a bargain. Put it this way: You could pay (more) to sit through a movie, which you might or might not like and probably wouldn’t bother watching again, or you could race around like an excited kid, pressing buttons, exploring a historic site and learning more about Tassie’s history. I’d visit again in a heartbeat!

There’s lots more to see (or read about) in Tasmania’s north, north west, west coast, south, east coast, midlands or central highlands. Happy exploring!

August 5, 2018

Liffey Falls

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river — Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.