Traversing Tasmania - South Tasmania

September 24, 2018

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

The Conservatory © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I love Spring. Winter can drag on in Tasmania and Spring is a welcome relief. Yes, it can be cold or wet (or cold and wet!) but the sunshine and flowers cheer me up no end. So, what do you do on a sunny Saturday in Spring? You head to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, that’s what!

Lily Pond © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If, like me, this is your first visit in too long, you’ll notice a few changes. You’ll notice the new “Hub” near the top gate, where you can find assistance, grab a map of the gardens or buy some plants. The lily pond also has a new viewing platform shaped like a series of lily pads. If, like me, the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens brings back a flood of childhood memories, you’ll be pleased to know that the main attractions are still there.

The Fernery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

My first stop is always the lily pond with its beautiful white bridge. There’s many a grand photo to be taken here, particularly in Spring. Next, I head up the hill to the Fernery. My mission as a child was to run up and down the steps around the waterfalls as fast as I could. Now, I just like the serenity.

From here, walk across and then down until you find the floral clock. Look up the hill to the gorgeous arch and then head down the hill to the Rotunda. From here, aim for the gorgeous brick wall. There are toilets to the left or you can head on through to my favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

The Japanese Gardens take serene to a whole new level. You’ll find a compact maze of beauty. This part of the garden is set up as a series of “rooms” joined by a series of cascades and ponds. A special treat for us on Saturday was that the resident kookaburra decided to pose in just about every photo I took of the Japanese Gardens!! As a kid, I absolutely loved walking over the wooden boards, watching the waterwheel turn, crossing the red bridge and clambering up Mount Fuji. You can’t do the latter nowadays but you can still view the mountain, if you can find it! On the way back to the main gardens, stop and admire my favourite fountain. Mr. Traversing Tasmania describes it as a plane wreck but I think that it’s fascinating.

From here, spy Government House through the trees and head back through the brick wall (further up this time). The Tasmanian Community Food Garden is always interesting to view and is a fabulous idea. Mind you, the garden beds stand where my second-favourite part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens used to be: The Cactus House. The cacti have now been relegated to the back part of the community garden but they are still fascinating to look at.

Sub Antarctic Plant House © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

On your right, you’ll eventually find the Conservatory. The building is beautiful and there is always a lovely display, no matter what the time of year. Before you enter though, head to a less balmy part of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. The Sub-Antarctic Plant House is just up the hill from the Conservatory and it is a blast, literally! You’ll feel the climate and admire the fauna of Macquarie Island. Brace yourself!

2018 is the 200^th anniversary of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. If you haven’t visited the gardens yet, you should. The variety of plants and programs on offer is fabulous. Or, you can ignore all the scientific names and the events and instead do what any sane child would do: just get lost. Around each corner is something new to discover. It’s like finding the walled garden in The Secret Garden.

What to Bring

If you know your way around and have limited time, you can just about squeeze the best of the Gardens into an hour. If you’d like to take your time and explore everything thoroughly, you’ll need at least two hours. This means that you’ll need to ditch your heels and don your trusty walking shoes. You’ll also need weather-appropriate clothing, sun protection and food and water.

Getting There

You’ll find the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is next door to Government House on the Royal Domain. It’s about a five-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD towards the Tasman Bridge. Turn left onto Lower Domain Road once you have passed the Aquatic Centre. There’s plenty of parking on site. You’ll also find a small car park just off Domain Highway if you’re travelling to the Gardens from the eastern shore.

Cost

Through the brick wall © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is via donation. For a relatively cheap family day out, bring your own picnic gear. If you’re hungry and haven’t come prepared, there is a kiosk (Sprout) or the main restaurant (Succulent) to choose from. You can also purchase botanically themed items from the gift shop or a small range of plants from the new “Hub”. I highly recommend the picnic option if the weather is fine as there’s nothing quite like hunting down the perfect picnic spot in the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Nearby attractions include Government House, the Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 8, 2018September 8, 2018

Fossil Cove

Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of a quiet street in the peaceful bushland south of Kingston is a secluded cove: Fossil Cove. There is no designated car park. A simple wooden sign post marks the start of the track. When we arrived, there was only one other car there. Don’t be fooled by the humble beginnings of your journey: Your destination is spectacular.

The track to Fossil Cove is easy to traverse, downhill. You’ll do the hard work on the way back up! There are well-defined stairs. Enjoy strolling through the bush and take time to explore the rock formations beside the track as you descend. I must admit that I rather like seeing the neighbouring properties too. What a place to live! In about fifteen minutes’ time, you’ll find yourself at the top of a staircase, staring out to sea.

Many delights await you. There are rock shelves and pools to explore, shells to find and an archway to walk through at low tide to a neighbouring cove. If you enjoy a spot of fishing, there are fish to be caught. When you sit down on one of the rock shelves, don’t be surprised by what lies beneath you.

Fossils

It’s easy to understand how Fossil Cove got its name. You’ll see for yourself the varied, intricate, multitude of fossils imprinted on the rock shelves. I could spend a long time admiring them. Fish, shells, from eons ago. Look up at your surroundings too. You’ll see a tree, clinging to the clifftop. There are views of the River Derwent, the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island.

What to Bring

The walk to Fossil Cove is a short one (approximately 45 minutes return) but do wear sturdy shoes as the track can be muddy. You never know how long you’ll stay exploring so bring some water and a snack. Check the tide times too. Unless you’re prepared to get very wet and walk on slippery rocks, access through the arch is limited to (very) low tide. Leave your usual beach paraphernalia behind and enjoy a different kind of waterside experience!

Getting There

Blackmans Bay is a 15-minute drive south of Hobart’s CBD via either Taroona (the scenic route) or the Southern Outlet. Once you’re in Blackmans Bay, head south on Tinderbox Road until you reach Fossil Cove Drive. When you reach the end of the cul-de-sac, park your car beside the road and begin your descent to the majestic Fossil Cove.

Cost

Fossil Cove is one of Tassie’s delightful freebies. Pay in kind by staying on the track, taking your litter away with you and leaving the cove’s contents behind for future visitors. Remember to take lots of photos! It is a truly remarkable place.

Nearby attractions include Taroona’s Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 2, 2018September 2, 2018

Waterworks Reserve

Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the west, north, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

February 10, 2018February 10, 2018

The Penitentiary

Clock Tower © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The Penitentiary in Hobart is a time capsule. At one point during the tour, I found myself thinking, “Where am I?” The guide’s descriptions and the beautifully preserved location took me to another place, another time. If you haven’t visited The Penitentiary, put it on your list of things to do. It’s fantastic!

Hobart’s landscape once looked very different. In the early 1800s, shiploads of convicts arrived in the town and required sorting. The Penitentiary, affectionately known as The Tench, was built for this purpose. Later, it was used as a gaol, with a public chapel and gallows. You won’t find much of it left but what does remain will amaze you.

Broad Arrow © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

On arriving at The Penitentiary, you’ll see the lovely clock tower. We even heard it chime – it was about a minute out but that’s pretty good for a clock that’s nearly 200 years old! You’ll also see the red brick of one of the original curved walls. It’s a lovely architectural feature but it’s even more fascinating when you run your hands over the broad arrows and thumbprints left by the convicts who made the bricks.

Inside the gates, you’ll see the shadowy outlines of the doors into the solitary confinement cells. Inside the building, stand inside a cell with the door shut. Our guide was very kind and kept it shut only for a few moments. You’ll then see the remains of the original chapel, which was converted to courtrooms when The Penitentiary became a prison.

Courtroom 2 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll journey to the courtrooms like a prisoner, through underground tunnels. What an experience! Popping up inside the historic dock really threw me! It felt like I could have been in England or perhaps back in the courtroom’s heyday. Your tour ends with a sobering visit to the gallows (and some grisly tales from your guide). The Penitentiary is not a pleasant place but it is strangely beautiful and exceedingly fascinating.

What to Bring

Courtroom 1 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bring your camera but leave everything else in the car or the museum office. Some of the tour is outside, so you’ll need to wear appropriate clothing for the season. I imagine that the guides whisk you inside the building quickly if the weather is too extreme.

Getting There

The Tench © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find The Penitentiary on the corner of Campbell and Brisbane Streets in Hobart. It’s a short drive or walk from the CBD. Make use of the limited visitor parking in a small carpark behind the building on Brisbane Street. If you miss out on this, you’ll have to pay for street parking (there are two-hour spots in Brisbane Street).

Cost

There is no cost to view the two museum rooms, the tour waiting room and the gift shop. You’ll learn a lot about The Penitentiary but you can’t see the historic site properly unless you do a guided tour. Tours cost $20 per adult, $15 concession, $12 per child or $40 for families. Make sure that you arrive in time to book a tour. Tours depart at 1pm and 2:30pm everyday and also at 10am and 11:30am on weekdays (it is closed on public holidays). Your tour will last for approximately 90 minutes but can go longer (we had booked tickets at the State Cinema and missed the last few minutes of our tour). Thank you to the National Trust for making yet another historic site come alive!

If you’re in the area for a while, there are many other fantastic places to visit in Tasmania’s south.

December 15, 2017April 25, 2018

Mount Nelson Signal Station

Signalmans Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

What do Tasmanians like to do on the weekend? Find sunshine, good food, stunning views and a little bit of adventure. The great thing is that you don’t have to travel far to do this in Tasmania. Mount Nelson Signal Station is only a short drive (or a few hours’ walk!) from Hobart’s CBD. Last weekend, I visited the historic site.

Mount Nelson Signal Station offers similar views to kunanyi/Mount Wellington but is much closer to the city. Yes, you’re not as high up but you do have a lovely view of the river and the temperature is warmer. In summer, sit out in the sun on a beanbag (perhaps with your dog). In winter, sit on the enclosed verandah of the Signal Station Brasserie. This was formerly the Signalmans Cottage and was built in 1897.

After you’ve soaked in the sun, there’s more to explore. The Mount Nelson Signal Station lookout house (built in 1910 to replace the 1811 original) hosts a very small but lovely display of historic items. You’ll find signal flags, an Ericsson wall telephone and a semaphore mechanism, as well as other historic artefacts. You’ll also learn more about the story of the signal station. Although its 24+ metre mast has been dismantled and its last message was “forgotten”, the site is not. The lookout house is very picturesque. Take time to admire its round roof, pressed metal ceiling and 180-degree view of the River Derwent.

There are two lookout platforms at the Mount Nelson Signal Station site. Due to the growth of surrounding trees, you’ll get better views from the carpark! Look up at kunanyi/Mount Wellington or down at the Tasman Bridge and Hobart. If you’ve got a spare few hours, you can even walk down to Sandy Bay or Taroona.

Getting There

View from inside © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Mount Nelson Signal Station is at the upper end of Nelson Road. You can reach it by driving up Mount Nelson from Sandy Bay. This road has several hairpin bends but allows you to see a bit of the history of the area via the houses that line the road. Alternatively, drive out of Hobart towards Kingston on the Southern Outlet or Proctor’s Road, turning left for Mount Nelson at the top of the hill. Whichever road you take, the station is approximately ten minutes’ drive from Hobart’s CBD. There is ample parking on site.

Cost

Signal Station Brasserie © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There is no cost to visit Mount Nelson Signal Station. Completing the walks is also free. There are public toilets and barbeques available for use or you can visit the Signal Station Brasserie. The lookout house is open from 9am – 4pm on weekends (or 10am – 4pm on weekdays).

If you’re staying in the area for a while, I’ve got more ideas for adventures in Tasmania’s south.

November 6, 2017September 24, 2018

Government House Tasmania

I’ve always wanted to have a peek at Government House Tasmania. Driving past, looking up at the house from below, I was intrigued. What lay behind those fields dotted with trees and those elegant stone walls? In the past, I have read about the open days in the newspaper a day too late, which was always a bit of a letdown! Yesterday, my husband told me that Government House was open. Would I like to go? YES!

Lion's Court — Lion’s Court © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We arrived 15 minutes early and there was already quite a queue to get in. I was amazed by the preparation some people had gone to, carrying camp chairs, picnic rugs and baskets of food. Weren’t we were just touring the house? When I heard bagpipes playing, I realised that this wasn’t the case!

Rose Garden and Vineyard © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There were Tasmanian societies everywhere: RSPCA Tasmania, Country Women’s Association of Tasmania, Girl Guides Tasmania, Scouts Tasmania, Surf Life Saving Tasmania (guarding the two ponds), and so on. I appreciated the free water and sunscreen available, thanks to TasWater and the Cancer Council Tasmania. Music played and the Rotary Club of Howrah had a large BBQ going. Children played in the gardens or on the tennis courts. It was a festival!

The first thing to do, of course, is to join another queue – the queue to tour the house. You’ll view a small, roped off portion of the house. Most importantly, you’ll be greeted by the Governor, which was a lovely experience. The house is absolutely gorgeous. Who knew that we had such an historic gem on our own doorstep?

Dining Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Building of Government House Tasmania was finished in 1857 and it is a beautiful building. It also contains many remarkable artefacts. A table set for eighteen guests, a giant portrait of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and stunning carpets and ceilings are but a portion of the sights you’ll see. A nearby reporter commented on how homely it looked, compared to previous setups. I have nothing to compare it to but I can say that I would not mind being a resident!

Quarry Pond © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The best thing about Government House Tasmania is the secret gardens. You’ll find access to the tennis courts through an archway in a hedge. Sidle past the tennis courts and you’ll find yourself in the rose garden, overlooking the vineyards. Glimpses of two ponds, both with their own waterfalls and one with its own sail boat, can be seen from the driveway. Visiting these is a must! On our way out, we found a garden with plaques beside three of the trees, indicating that these had been planted, some decades ago, by members of the royal family, including none other than Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

Tasman Bridge © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll enjoy the views. From the windows of Government House Tasmania, you can see the wharf at the Regatta Grounds. Ships pass, framed by ornate brickwork. Outside, the views from East Parklands of the Tasman Bridge are magnificent. It’s a special view for me – the reverse of what I’m used to seeing. Instead of whizzing past in a car, staring up at the house, I’m gazing at the bridge and the river from beneath shady trees. What a day!

Getting There

Government House Tasmania is next door to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. You can access this area via the Tasman Highway or via the Domain Highway. Parking is available at the Botanical Gardens or along the Lower Domain Road. If you’re late, there is a overflow car park for the Botanical Gardens or more roadside parking.

Cost

The Government House Tasmania open day is a free event. Tours of the state rooms, gardens and even the inner workings of the house are available once a month for a small price. Bring some money for the BBQ and for a jar of marmalade from the CWA and don’t forget to bring your camp chairs, picnic rug and basket of food!

Don’t forget to visit the stunning Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens next door! Staying in southern Tasmania? Read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s south.