Tasmania Zoo

Bushland
Pygmy Marmoset
Pygmy Marmoset © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There’s something lovely about Tasmania Zoo. Primarily, it’s the location, on a gorgeous bush block. I also enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and the ingenuity of the play equipment and fences. With one set of my grandparents being animal activists, animals in cages can make me uneasy but I’d visit Tasmania Zoo again – they’re doing good work there.

 

Great Western Tiers
Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Nestled in the rolling hills that ring the Meander Valley, Tasmania Zoo has stellar views of the Great Western Tiers. You might want to just stand in the carpark and look west for a while. It’s beautiful. When you finally do enter the zoo, it’s surrounded by native bushland. All of this makes for a tranquil setting.

 

Wildlife
Wildlife © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you enter Tasmania Zoo, you’ll be greeted by friendly staff. I highly recommend booking an animal encounter along with your entry ticket. The extra dollars paid just to hold a wombat, for example, might seem pricey but you won’t regret it when you have that bundle of furry goodness in your arms! The friendliness continues with a welcome “Hello!” from a resident cockatoo. You might even find yourself standing next to a wallaby, like we did! It’s a very welcoming environment.

 

Playground
Playground © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Sustainability is clearly a focus for the staff at Tasmania Zoo. Barriers have been made from recycled gas bottles and tyres. Our friends’ kids loved the tractor tyre cum roundabout in the playground! I found myself simultaneously admiring the animals and inventiveness of some of the enclosures.

 

Sentry Duty
Sentry Duty © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Animals. That’s why we go to zoos. Standouts for me were the meerkats, the pygmy marmosets and the Tasmanian devils. Time your visit right and you’ll get to see the meerkats fed as you enter and the devils fed as you leave (or vice versa). As always with a good zoo, you’ll come away understanding more about the animals. As an eagle circled overhead and the guide explained meerkat behaviour, I understood why these cute critters stand to attention in high places – they’re on sentry duty.

 

Jurassic Swamp Walk
Jurassic Swamp Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few other features of Tasmania Zoo that it would be remiss of me not to mention. They have a lovely array of farm animals, for instance. They also have dinosaurs… large, plastic dinosaurs! The Jurassic Swamp walk is a bit weird, to be honest, with screeching reptilian noises blasting at you from hidden speakers, but I enjoyed the walk nonetheless! Tasmania Zoo also play an active role in conserving several species that are endangered or threatened, including the Tasmanian devils.

 

What to Bring

Flat out with the Tassie devils!
Flat out with the Tassie devils! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather appropriate clothing: hats in summer; raincoats in the wet; woollies in the winter. You’ll also need sturdy shoes because you’ll be on your feet all day and you’re out and about in dusty or muddy areas too. Bring your own water bottle and snacks so that you can enjoy a cheaper day and not have to rush back to the cafe every time you get the munchies.

Getting There

Meerkats
Meerkats © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tasmanian Zoo just outside of Riverside in northern Tasmania. From Launceston, head to the West Tamar Road/Highway then take a left onto Ecclestone Road, continuing until you reach the zoo. It’ll take you about 25 minutes to drive from Launceston’s CBD to Tasmania Zoo. Alternatively, there are back-roads from the Bass Highway that you can take if you are travelling from Devonport.

Cost

Tassie Devil
Tassie Devil © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For your $28 per adult (16+), $15 per child and $25 per concession, you’ll receive access to the zoo including its free barbeque facilities, playground and jumping pillow. You could also opt to pay $17.50 per child for a lovely catered birthday party (minimum group sizes apply). I highly recommend paying the $20 extra for an animal encounter! There’s also a café and a gift shop or you can bring your own food and fun. It’s not a cheap day out for a family but it is one that you’ll remember for a long time. I have not yet forgotten the sound of a Tassie devil eating a chook!!! I have many pleasant memories too and I look forward to returning to Tasmania Zoo in the future.

 

Enjoyed the read? Read more about my travels in Tassie’s north, north west, midlands or central highlands. Travelling further afield? I’ve also traversed Tasmania’s east coast, south and west coast.

Tailrace Park

Traversing Tailrace Park
River Views
River Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is such a delight to find one of Tasmania’s hidden gems. This is, admittedly, a very small gem but it is beautiful nonetheless. And it is hidden. Even Google maps haven’t discovered it yet, or at least not the boardwalk part of it! I’ve been out to Tamar Island several times but what I didn’t realise is that there is another boardwalk that leads you out onto the Tamar River. The Tailrace Park has its own version, allowing you to emerge from the dense tree-line onto the river proper.

Yacht
Yacht © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

As the name suggests, Tailrace Park is located next to a tailrace, this one from the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. I find the tailrace itself fascinating and beautiful. First, you’ll see a recently constructed embankment beneath the road. The turbulence of the tailrace eroded the previous embankment away, such is the force of moving water. Next, you’ll spy a yacht or two as well as pelicans. We talked to someone who spotted a seal in the water just after we had visited. I guess it’s a great place for a seal spa bath!

Flora
Flora © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you reach Tailrace Park proper, keep left (you’ll need to head around the boatshed though) and you’ll find the boardwalk. This leads through the scrub and trees to a picnic table with more views of the tailrace. Walk on and you’ll find yourself on the river’s edge. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the place where the bush meets the water. This part of the river reminds me of the west coast.

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also spot some lovely sights such as the new Silos Hotel (if you look hard!) and the old shipyards. Both speak of Launceston’s past as a port. You’ll understand, when you look down at the deep mud beneath your feet, that the port’s heyday was always going to end at some point.

Tailrace Park
Tailrace Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of the boardwalk, you’ll emerge back into Tailrace Park. I must admit that I was tempted to have a go on the very tall slide. If you’ve brought some snags, you can cook them on one of the Rotary sponsored public barbecues.

Getting There

Walk
Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tailrace Park on West Tamar Road, opposite the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. It is about 5 – 10 minutes’ drive from Launceston’s CBD or a leisurely one hour walk. There is ample on-site free parking.

Cost

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Free parking, barbeques, picnic tables, a park, slides, a boardwalk, wildlife, river views… You’ll have a lot of fun for zero cost at Tailrace Park. My only regret was that I had to leave! Enjoy one Tasmania’s lovely free parks.

Read on for more adventures in Tassie’s north, midlands or north-west or take your journey one step further and cruise the Tamar River. Looking for another free, short walk? Try nearby Cataract Gorge Reserve or Tamar Island.

The Ship That Never Was

Traversing The Ship That Never Was
The Ship That Never Was
The Ship That Never Was © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Ship That Never Was is Australia’s longest running theatre show. You can watch it every night at 5:30pm in Strahan. The play is performed by The Round Earth Company and was written by historian Richard Davey about the fate of The Frederick. This was the last ship that was built by convicts in the shipyards at nearby Sarah Island. Historic? Yes. Boring? No way! I haven’t laughed so hard in a long time! This play is a masterpiece.

Ship Building
Ship Building © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I thought that a historic story would be a little dated, perhaps even snooze-inducing, but our convicts were entertaining rapscallions. In the hands of a gifted writer, their lives are a comedic tragedy. The Ship That Never Was is a poignant, laugh-out-loud tale that simultaneously allows you to experience part of Macquarie Harbour’s history. You’ll be on the edge of your seat, waiting to hear what happened to our intrepid crew.

The Round Earth Company
The Round Earth Company © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I found the actors highly entertaining. A two-person troupe, they engage the audience at every step. You never know – you might even be one of the stars of The Ship That Never Was! One of the two actors was our guide the following day on our tour of Sarah Island (as part of the Gordon River Cruise) and showed us the shipyards where part of the play is set.

The Ship That Never Was
The Ship That Never Was © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll be amazed by the set of The Ship That Never Was. We walked past the Richard Davey Amphitheatre earlier in the day, peered in and couldn’t really make sense of it. I would tell you what happens but it’s rather lovely to watch it coming together (and breaking apart) for yourself.

Getting There

Richard Davey Amphitheatre
Richard Davey Amphitheatre © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Ship That Never Was is performed in the Richard Davey Amphitheatre in summer (September to May) and runs as a film at the Risby Cove Theatrette in winter (June to August). Both venues are located on The Esplanade in Strahan and are a few minutes’ drive apart. There are coverings over the bleachers in the amphitheatre so you’ll be perfectly comfortable in the outdoor arena, even if the weather isn’t great. There is free parking at Risby Cove but paid parking only near the Richard Davey Amphitheatre (unless you’re happy to take a short walk uphill).

Cost

The Ship That Never Was
The Ship That Never Was © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

To see the summertime live performance, you’ll pay $25 per adult, $20 per concession, $12.50 per student and $2.50 per child (4 – 12 years old). Prices are much cheaper to see the film in winter. You can find up-to-date pricing here. You may think that this is expensive but it really isn’t. I would be VERY surprised if you didn’t want to go back the following night for a second viewing! I wanted to. Bring cash to purchase one of the interpretive booklets at the end of the play. It was wonderful to be a small part of Australia’s theatre history for an evening.

Staying a while? Read more about my adventures in Strahan and on the west coast.

Ocean Beach

Traversing Ocean Beach
View from Ocean Beach Lookout
View from Ocean Beach Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ocean Beach is a 30+ km beach highway (for the right vehicle at the right time of day). You’ll see towering sand dunes, rolling waves and white, white sand. It’s a wild place. Just to give you can idea of how untamed it is, Ocean Beach lies between Hell’s Gates in the south and Trial Harbour in the north. Both places were named to let other travellers know what to expect in these waters: great difficulty!

Beach Highway
Beach Highway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You can drive onto Ocean Beach with a 4WD vehicle at several points. We entered the beach at Macquarie Heads. Macquarie Heads is particularly picturesque with views of historic lighthouses, fisherman’s cottages and rock walls as well as the dangerous Hell’s Gates passage out of Macquarie Harbour. It was a delight to drive in the blue water of our GPS screen while safely on Ocean Beach!

Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

While I was walking by the waves at Ocean Beach Lookout, Mr. Traversing Tasmania tried to get the 4WD down the track to the shore but decided that he wasn’t brave enough! Ask locals for advice about when and where to access the beach. Note that there are two river mouths to cross and that you can get bogged. That’s not on my list of things to do while on holiday!

What to Bring

Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on driving your 4WD along Ocean Beach, bring recovery equipment and let someone know where you’re going and when to expect you back. It also helps to ask locals about which access points are currently safe to use. Bring your fishing gear for use at Macquarie Heads. Note that Ocean Beach is unpatrolled by lifeguards and is too dangerous for swimming. Bring food and water so that you can stay as long as you please and, as always on the west coast, bring clothing appropriate for wet, windy and/or cold weather.

Getting There

View north
View north © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you don’t have a 4WD, you can still enjoy Ocean Beach. Just follow signs from Strahan along C250, Ocean Beach Road. A sign-posted right-hand turn and a short stretch of dirt road will see you arrive at the car park at Ocean Beach Lookout. Here, walk a wild stretch of sand with views of Macquarie Heads to the south or views of Henty Dunes and rugged ranges to the north. Just being beside the ocean is wonderfully restorative. I’m told by the locals that Ocean Beach is also one of the best spots to view the sunset.

Cost

Dunes
Dunes © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Access to Tasmania’s beaches is free! This is something that I don’t take for granted. I do my part by taking all of my rubbish away with me. I also take three additional pieces of rubbish (bottle caps, gum wrappers, fishing line and the like) with me to do my bit for the ocean critters who don’t need waste in their environment. Enjoy the pristine wilderness that is Ocean Beach!

To read about more of my west coast adventures, click here.

Strahan

Traversing Strahan
Reflections
Reflections © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a lovely town for many reasons. Firstly, the west coast wilderness creeps right up to the edges of the town, giving it a fairy-tale setting. Lovely walks, such as the hike to Hogarth Falls, fall within the town’s boundaries. Secondly, it’s a picturesque port. Boats are anchored against a backdrop of misty wilderness. What a wonderful place!

Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill
Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a town that has seen many a hard time. Originally a piners and miners town, it was formed by sheer grit. The collapse of mining in recent years has meant a new fight for the town’s survival, this time through tourism ventures like Gordon River Cruises. Several industries have stood the test of time: Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a living museum and The Ship that Never Was is Australia’s longest running (and arguably funniest) theatre show.

Gordon River Cruise
Gordon River Cruise © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You should visit Strahan for many reasons, the foremost being that there is nowhere else in the world like it. On our first morning in Strahan, we awoke to views of Macquarie Harbour, which is six times as large as Sydney Harbour and approximately one thousand times wilder. On our way to the Gordon River Cruise boat, we watched a historic steam train leave its station across the bay. While waiting for our boat to board, we photographed the still waters and ancient forests before purchasing a morning pick-me-up from The Coffee Shack, a cheerful cafe run by local sisters. I would head back in a heart beat.

Abt Railway, Regatta Point
Abt Railway, Regatta Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is also the gateway to many a grand adventure. From here, you can arrange an all-terrain vehicle tour of the Henty Dunes, drive on Ocean Beach, sail overnight on the Gordon River, purchase Huon Pine at mates rates, watch Australia’s longest running play, explore World Heritage Listed wilderness or steam up the mighty Abt railway. Alternatively, just stroll around the foreshore to Regatta Point. There is so much to do in Strahan that it is quite tricky to set aside time to just relax!

What to Bring

Customs Offices
Customs Offices © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Don’t leave home without your wet-weather gear. Having sturdy walking boots, waterproof pants and a raincoat will allow you to enjoy Strahan no matter how much it rains. There is a well-stocked IGA in Strahan and a petrol station, as well as restaurants, cafes, a take-away shop and the like. However, I always bring some supplies from home too, to keep costs down and to make sure that I have everything I need. Reservations are recommended at restaurants and attractions as you may miss out otherwise. Lastly, bring your Strahan bucket-list (and a realisation that, unless you have a month, you won’t get through it).

Getting There

Fishing Wharf
Fishing Wharf © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is about four and a half hours’ drive from Hobart or four hours’ drive from Launceston. Whichever way you go, the roads can be treacherous as the West Coast receives a lot of rain, which can lead to wet or icy roads, depending on the conditions. Driving from dusk to dawn is not recommended as the wildlife are large and they are at large! It is just not worth it to hit a wombat or a wallaby. Plan to arrive in Strahan at least an hour before dark (otherwise, enjoy a very slow drive…).

Enjoy your visit to Strahan! It truly is a wonderful town and I can’t wait to return. For more things to do on the west coast, read on!

 

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill

Traversing Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill
Workshop
Workshop © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a fourth generation, family-run sawmill in Strahan. Reasons to visit include experiencing a sawmill in action, seeing vintage equipment, enjoying the waterfront view and watching a saw demonstration at approximately 3pm each day. The very best reason to visit is that you get to breathe in the glorious Huon pine scent. There’s nothing quite like it!

Vintage Saw
Vintage Saw © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

We arrived at Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill at 3:15pm. This was a fabulous time to arrive as Snowy Morrison was just about to start his museum-piece saw, bringing the mill to roaring life. It was also a dreadful time to arrive as a boatload of tourists arrived just after the saw had started, swamping the shop. If you feel panicky, close your eyes and smell the Huon Pine. It’ll all be over soon, folks!

The Morrison Family
The Morrison Family © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Being a Tasmanian has several advantages. For one, I happened to know one of the Morrison family members. This then led to me having a cuppa in Snowy Morrison’s house, admiring his gorgeous wooden furniture. If you’re not a local, you can at least have a yarn with the Morrison family at the sawmill and can admire the craftsmanship of the items in the gift shop.

Getting There

Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill
Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is located on the Esplanade in Strahan, just up from the Gordon River Cruise departure points. Daily saw demonstrations start as passengers leave the cruise boats (approximately 3pm). While it’s a four-hour drive from Hobart (or a four-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston), what you spend in petrol will be saved on Huon pine goodies!

Cost

World Heritage Cruises
World Heritage Cruises © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wonderfully, Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is free to visit! You can wander through the workshop, admire antique equipment and make a purchase from the gift shop. I would tell you how cheap my gorgeous Huon pine chopping board was except that then there won’t be any left next time I visit. Suffice to say, if you’re in Strahan and you don’t visit Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill, you’ll regret it!

Staying a while? Read about more of my adventures on Tasmania’s wild west coast.