Traversing Tasmania - North West Tasmania

December 1, 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum

Founders Lake © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Way back in mid-October, we visited The Tasmanian Arboretum. My only regret is that we didn’t spend more time there! What will you find? You’ll cross lakes and streams, watch for platypus, explore quarries, wander through groves of trees from different parts of the world and learn something of the history of the area. Make sure that, at some point, you climb up a hillside. The views are lovely!

You enter The Tasmanian Arboretum via the Japanese Gardens. This part of the garden is small but worthy of some attention. The bridges are beautiful, taking you over streams and between gorgeous plants. From here, walk to the café. You might not be hungry yet but it’s worth purchasing a few snacks to take with you as you will be walking a good distance! The café is also the place where you’ll be able to grab a map and pay your entry fee (if you didn’t have cash to put in one of the boxes in the car park).

Views from the Arbor © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From here, head wherever you want to! The Tasmanian Arboretum is a sprawling park with themed areas to explore. Click here to view a map of the arboretum and its walking trails. We enjoyed walking the Lake Circuit and admiring the views back towards the lake from the Arbor in the Tasmanian plant section. Do take the time to climb up Lime Hill Lookout, again, for the views! You can even cross Founders Lake onto a small island.

Platypus and Bird Hide © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

A real highlight of The Tasmanian Arboretum is the chance to see a platypus. The volunteers in the café will be able to tell you where the platypus currently are most likely to be spotted or you can take a chance (and find shelter!) in the Platypus and Bird Hide at the edge of the main lake. You’re more likely to see platypus in the early morning or at dusk so plan your visit accordingly.

History

Views from Lime Hill Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I wasn’t expecting local history to be such a feature of The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are two quarries to look at (or not, if, like Mr. Traversing Tasmania, you find disused quarries uninteresting!). The garden also boasts limestone formations (including small caves). If you have time, you can walk out to the Don River and an old railway track. We saw a family walking along the hand-dug tramway that runs parallel to part of the Lake Circuit and it looked to be a fantastic walk. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to follow them. Another reason for a return visit!

What to Bring

Traversing The Tasmanian Arboretum © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring your pram, your walker, your bike or your wheel chair because the main circuit around The Tasmanian Arboretum is a level gravel path. Fantastic! Note that, although it would be possible to take a bike off the main circuit and onto the smaller paths, bikes are restricted to the main circuit. If you are a person with a disability, you can even drive around the main circuit.

Public Barbecues © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re walking and want to explore the smaller pathways up the sides of the hill, comfortable shoes are a good idea. Always where weather appropriate clothing. You will want to bring (or buy from the café) some food and water too you’ll be visiting for a few hours at least, particularly if you’re pausing to watch for platypus. There are plenty of places to sit at a bench or table or you can bring a picnic rug. Public barbecues are available. You’ll find an amenity block near the entrance and a composting toilet a few hundred metres up the main path from the Platypus Observatory. If you wish, you can even bring your pooch (on leash) with you!

Getting There

Blossoms © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum is about 15 minutes’ drive south-east of Devonport. Head south on Middle Road (stop for a tour of Home Hill). Turn right in Spreyton onto Kelcey Tier Road. If you’re travelling from Ulverstone, follow the Bass Highway to Turner’s Beach and then follow the B15 and the C145 to The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are many twists and turns this way so drive carefully.

Cost

Look up! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to The Tasmanian Arboretum is for the bargain price of $5 per adult (children free). If you think that you’ll be visiting often, you can pay for a membership, which gives you free entry. The Tasmanian Arboretum is open from 9am to sunset each day. Enjoy your walk through one of Tasmania’s most interesting gardens!

There’s more to do in and around Devonport! Visit Home Hill, sail on the Julie Burgess, catch the Spirit of Tasmania to Melbourne or head further afield in Tasmania’s north west or north.

November 18, 2018November 18, 2018

Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden

If you want to feel like a child again, visit the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. The hillside forms a natural amphitheatre surrounding several springs. You’ll find the garden covered in gorgeous fauna, sectioned into various culturally-themed garden “rooms”. There are bridges to cross, scents to inhale, colours to admire and many lovely places to rest. Keep an eye out for birds and waterfalls too. Although there are indeed rhododendrons aplenty, chances are that you’ll find your favourite flower somewhere in the garden. We loved walking through the wisteria archways!

We were told that we would need about three hours to see the entire garden. I don’t doubt that this is true as there are many small pathways and areas to explore. It is possible, however to have a quicker visit. If you have less time, head to the Chinese and Japanese gardens first. Make sure that you have a look at the lakes on your way there and back. You might like to ask the staff in the Tearoom for their recommendations too, which will vary according to the season.

Wisteria Archway © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden is particularly picturesque in Autumn or Spring. In Spring, you can expect to see living colour everywhere! We visited in late October and the gardens were in full swing. It was incredibly beautiful! You’ll enjoy a magnificent floral display anytime from mid-September to mid-November. I have seen photographs of the gardens in Autumn too and the deciduous trees look resplendent in their yellow, orange and red hues. If you want to know what to expect to see in a particular season, have a look at the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden website here.

What to Bring

I highly recommend bringing a picnic with you to the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, particularly when the garden is in full bloom. You will want to spend as long as possible in your favourite part of the garden so taking a rug and a spread of food with you would be an excellent idea! You can purchase food from the Tearoom overlooking the garden if you prefer. If you have young children with you, do be aware that the lakes are not fenced. You will find places to settle in for a while that are away from the water features though. As always in Tasmania, wear sturdy shoes and weather-appropriate clothing. On a hot day, I recommend visiting earlier in the morning as you will have to walk up and down the hillside to see the garden.

Getting There

From Burnie, drive for just over ten minutes towards Romaine via Mount Street or Old Surrey Road until you reach Ridgley Highway. It’s a twisting-turning route through backstreets to the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. It is well signposted though (including on the way out). When you arrive at the gardens proper, you’ll pass through two gateways, one that is open and one that wallaby-proofs the gardens. The second gate will automatically open as your car approaches. Winding down the hill, I was impressed with the flowers and the scenery but it’s just a small taster of what’s to come! You’ll find ample parking at the end of the driveway.

Cost

Tearooms © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll pay $12 per adult and $10 per concession to visit the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. When you see the enormous amount of work that has gone into establishing, maintaining and extending the gardens, you’ll understand what a bargain that is! I certainly would gladly pay the entry fee again, just to see the garden in a different season. The Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden is open daily (excluding Christmas Day and Good Friday) from 9am – 5pm with the Tearoom open from 10am – 4pm (closed from Christmas to New Years’ Day). Enjoy!

Staying a while? Visit other attractions on the north west coast or on the not-too-distant west coast.

November 5, 2018

Table Cape Tulip Farm

"Irrigation Piping Run Over by Tractor" — “Irrigation Piping Run Over by Tractor” © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you arrive at Table Cape Tulip Farm, you may wonder what you’re in for. It is a farm, so you’ll see machinery (including a shed full of historic bits and bobs), mud and mayhem. This year, I noticed piping artfully decorating one of the shed walls – a man walking by us aptly named it “irrigation piping that has been run over by a tractor”. This is the kind of place that Table Cape Tulip Farm is: an honest-to-goodness working farm.

Tulip Field © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll soon realise why locals and tourists flock here in droves each Spring. Firstly, Table Cape Tulip Farm is in an incredible location. You’ll wind your way up from Wynyard to the top of the cape. From here, the farm boasts views of the historic Table Cap Lighthouse and Bass Strait. On top of this windswept plateau, colourful fields of tulips bloom for the month of October. It is a sight to behold! This year, the field in bloom (which is rotated annually) didn’t have views of the lighthouse but the tulips did not disappoint.

Treasure © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The sight of a patch-work field of living colour stretching up over the hill is breathtaking. Even better is walking between the colourful rows. There are many special treasures hidden in the tulip fields: choosing your favourite bloom, spying an “odd-one-out” (a lone white tulip in a row of red, for instance) or even finding a tulip-painted rock! Of course, people-watching is also fun. Apparently, the thing to do this year was to bring your dog along for a great Instagram photo-shoot!! If you visit during the Bloomin’ Tulips Festival, you can pay to have your portrait taken by a professional photographer.

Tiptoe through the Tulips © emily.j@traversingtasmania 2018

The main business of Table Cape Tulip Farm is selling tulips but you won’t find many for sale during Spring. Why? Because they sell bulbs! The farm’s flower-selling season is at a completely different time of the year. Head to Van Diemen Quality Bulbs’ site for a peek at what’s on offer. One of my favourite things to do when I visit Table Cape Tulip Farm is to choose a few new varieties of tulips and daffodils to order for my garden. If you’re not fortunate to live in a tulip-friendly climate, you’ll at least have memories and photos to cherish.

What to Bring

Tulip Shed © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I always say to wear sturdy shoes when you go out and about in Tasmania, but you actually don’t have to at Table Cape Tulip Farm! If you want, you can swap your fashion shoes for a pair of sturdy blue gum boots, for free. If the ground is wet, this is particularly important as the north west coast features some of Tasmania’s richest dirt and it sticks in giant clods to your footwear! As always, do dress appropriately for the weather conditions. You’ll stay longer than you had imagined in the field of tulips and can end up frozen or sunburnt. If you’re particularly unlucky, you might end up both frozen AND burnt; it does happen in Tasmania! The farm has amenities and a small café. I highly recommend Café Umami in Wynyard, particularly for those with dietary requirements.

Getting There

Table Cape Tulip Farm is a 5-minute drive from Wynyard in Tasmania’s north west. There is plenty of parking at the farm but you are parking in a field so it’s not necessarily a smooth drive. Remember that visitor numbers swell enormously during the Bloomin’ Tulips Festival so arrive early for a park that is closer to the main attraction. The farm is open from 9am – 4:30pm daily when the flowers are in bloom (late September to late October each year). You can visit at other times of the year to buy bulbs if you phone ahead but it really is worth visiting when the flowers are in their full splendour.

Cost

The rather wonderful thing about Table Cape Tulip Farm is that kids (under 16 years old) are free! Adults cost $12 per person in 2018 ($10 per concession or $8 per student). You can purchase bulbs and gift items from the shop or treats from the café. You can also order the bulbs online if you’d prefer. Apart from your entry fee, though, the main “cost” will be displaying your gorgeous photos… Enjoy!

Staying a while? There’s plenty to do in Tasmania’s north west or, further afield, west coast and north.

July 10, 2018July 10, 2018

Highfield House

Have you seen the film The Light Between Oceans? Some of it is filmed in the township of Stanley and in Highfield House, the historic homestead that overlooks the town. Originally built for the wealthy proprietors of Van Diemen’s Land (VDL) Company, the homestead was completed in 1834. VDL traded sheep so the property is surrounded by pastures. Unfortunately, VDL failed as the land isn’t suited to sheep grazing. Fortunately, this means that you can visit this beautifully preserved homestead.

Highfield House is extraordinarily picturesque. Don’t like reading information panels? Take your time admiring the wallpapers, carpets, stonework and furniture. Head outside and there’s even more to take in. The gardens are beautiful. We visited in winter and were surprised by just how colourful the gardens were. Look beyond the house and you’ll see gorgeous views of Stanley and The Nut. Make sure that you have a look at the outbuildings too – they are stunning.

There’s more to Highfield House than just external beauty. The property is of historical importance and is a reminder of a much harder time. You can read about the struggles of VDL and also the hardships caused by the company. The Tasmanian Tiger, which is now extinct, quite liked sheep so VDL participated in its eradication. The company also treated Aboriginal Tasmanians cruelly. Despite the ironic justice, you’ll find some of the company’s own losses confronting. Make sure that you have a look at the master bedroom upstairs and the small remembrance garden outside.

What to Bring

Courtyard © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The house can be a bit cold in winter so rug up. Wear sensible shoes and remember your camera. It really is a photogenic house! There is a gift shop on site but no café. Bring a picnic to eat on the lawns (in summer) or take a short drive to the township of Stanley for a meal.

Getting There

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. There are two ways of getting to Highfield House. Either drive up the hill from Godfreys Beach via Greenhills Road or take an earlier turn up Dovecote Road. I recommend doing the loop, in either direction. Make sure that you stop at all the lookouts on the way. There are three and you’ll love the different views of The Nut and Stanley. When you arrive, you’ll find plenty of parking at Highfield Historic House.

Cost

Outbuildings © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Highfield House is open from 10am – 4:45pm daily. Make sure that you check opening hours on public holidays. You’ll need to set aside about an hour to explore the house and grounds (more if you like to read every single interpretation panel!). You’ll pay $12 per adult with discounts for children and families. The property has EFTPOS facilities. The tours are self-guided, which is rather lovely as you can just pause and take in the views, both inside and outside the house. Enjoy!

Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

June 30, 2018

Stanley Golf Club

Views of The Nut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I’m not a golfer but Mr. Traversing Tasmania is and so I occasionally find myself traversing golf courses, against my will. That said, Tasmania has some very special golf courses and they’re not necessarily the ones that have all the fanfare. Let me tell you, from a non-golfing perspective, why Stanley Golf Club is so good.

Firstly, location, location, location! Stanley Golf Club runs parallel with Tatlows Beach. You can hear the waves crashing onto the beach from the golf course. We saw three pademelons inside the golf course boundary – they weren’t too happy to see us though! You can just see the beach through the trees at some points and you’ll even be able to make out Rocky Cape and Port Latta if you know where to look.

Views from the Fourth Hole © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley Golf Club obviously has stunning views. Highlights are views of The Nut and Highfield House. You’ll enjoy the view whichever way you look as pine trees run alongside the course and Stanley’s hillsides are picturesque. The course is also well maintained (in my non-professional opinion!) which only adds to the charm.

Finally, Mr. Traversing Tasmania tells me that Stanley Golf Club makes for an enjoyable round of golf. It’s a nine-hole, Par 66 course that is challenging enough but also user-friendly. If you don’t hit straight, there’s a good chance that your ball will end up in a nearby paddock but there are stiles to climb if you need to retrieve a stray ball! Highlights for me were teeing off at the Third and having a peek at the then empty dam (golf ball anyone?) when it was having its winter maintenance. I also found a few treasures along the way, including a rather expensive golf ball.

What to Bring

Pines and hillsides © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re able to bring your own gear, this will allow you to visit anytime, which is particularly helpful on a weekend. If not, visit during opening hours (3pm – 6:30pm on Monday to Thursday, 3pm – 8pm on Friday, 11am – 6pm on Saturday or 3pm – 6pm on Sunday). I also highly recommend bringing your camera as the views are gorgeous. If the club house is open, you’ll be able to purchase some refreshments (we were finished before opening time so I can’t make any recommendations here, sorry!).

Getting There

Farmlands © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. You’ll find Stanley Golf Club at 32 Marine Esplanade (the same street as the IGA grocery store). There’s ample free parking.

Cost

Stanley Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Stanley Golf Club has a simple sign-in process. If the bar’s not open in the club house, put $15 cash and your registration slip (available in the clubhouse entryway) into the box and you’re good to go. If you need to hire clubs etc. then you’ll have to visit during opening hours. Keen for a competition? Visit on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday at 12noon. We both left with smiles on our faces (mine because The Nut makes for an excellent backdrop to anything, even golf) so I’d say that’s money well spent. Enjoy your hit at Stanley Golf Club!

Read my posts about Stanley and The Nut for more information about the town. Want to explore the region? Read about my travels in Tasmania’s north west. Travelling further afield? I’ve traversed the west coast, south, east coast, north, midlands and central highlands and can highly recommend several places to visit in each area.

June 16, 2018

Stanley

Little penguin colony © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When I was a kid, I never knew what my favourite animal was because I had too many. I particularly hated being asked, “If you could be any animal, which would you choose?” For some reason, this question would be asked of my class from time to time and I could never give an answer that I was happy with. I can now say that I’d like to be a little penguin (or a short-tailed shearwater). It has nothing to do with flying or swimming but rather with the places that they live, which also happen to be my favourite spots in Tasmania: Bruny Island in the south, Bicheno on the east coast and Stanley in the north west.

In addition to being home to a colony of little penguins, Stanley also boasts The Nut (a volcanic plug), a lovely community, a picturesque outlook, beaches, fabulous shopping, heritage sites and beef and fishing industries. I could spend weeks in Stanley. Strangely enough, as it goes against the tourist trend, my favourite time to visit is during the winter months. It’s the light. The air is clear and crisp, the fields so green and the sea so blue and the sunrises and sunsets are spectacular. And, let’s be honest, who would climb The Nut in the summer months?

If you’re travelling to Stanley just for the day or the weekend, make sure that you arrive when the shops are open. My favourites are The Angel’s Share and Hearts N Crafts. You’ll find boutique clothing and accessories as well as Tasmanian whisky and spirits at The Angel’s Share and lots of homemade goodies at Hearts N Crafts. You’re sure to find something that appeals as you wander along Church Street.

Fishing Boat © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Originally a fishing village, the fisherman’s wharf is a great spot to visit. Take a photo of the red boats against the backdrop of the sea or have a bite to eat at Hursey’s Seafood or buy frozen seafood from the Stanley Seaquarium. For a good coffee, visit Black Dog on Church Street. Locals rave about the food at Xanders too and highly recommend the summer barbecues etc. put on by them.

For a small town, Stanley has its fair share of historic buildings. A trip to Stanley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Highfield House, the impressive homestead built by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1830s. You’ll have stellar views of The Nut and Stanley from here. In town, you’ll find former-prime minister and Tasmanian premier Joseph Lyon’s birthplace. The old cottages, churches and buildings are lovely – be sure to have a good look around.

Finally, head up The Nut (you can read about my visit here) and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find the little penguin colony at Godfrey’s Beach. It’s a short but picturesque beach with gorgeous views of The Nut, Highfield House and Bass Strait. On the other side of town, you’ll find Tatlows Beach. It offers a longer walk and views of The Nut, Rocky Cape National Park, Port Latta and so on. You’ll enjoy breathing in the fresh sea air, no matter what the time of year.

What to Bring

Abbey’s Cottage © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring sturdy shoes, weather-appropriate clothing and a camera so that you can enjoy all that Stanley has to offer. I like to bring basic food supplies although the town does have a well-stocked IGA and fabulous goods in the stores on Church Street. Having a red light torch for penguin viewing is also a must along with warm clothes as this is a night-time activity. Bring a good book too. Stanley is a place for relaxing.

Getting There

Stanley is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Launceston or about a five-hour drive from Hobart. If you’re visiting for the day, you’ll find plenty of free parking in the town’s streets. The larger towns are Smithton and Wynyard. You’ll find the natural beauty of Rocky Cape National Park and Boat Harbour nearby too. If you’re visiting Tasmania, I highly recommend taking the time to explore this area as it is stunning.

Cost

Godfrey's Beach — Godfrey’s Beach © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Attractions at Stanley range in price and opening hours. For free, you can climb The Nut, walk the beaches, use the public barbecues, explore the shops, take photos and visit Joe Lyon’s Cottage. You’ll pay to visit Highfield House, Stanley Seaquarium, Stanley Golf Course and to take the chairlift up The Nut. You can also cruise around The Nut with Stanley Seal Cruises or take a helicopter flight over the area if you wish to with Osbourne Heli Tours. Basically, a trip to Stanley can be as affordable or as lavish as you would like it to be. I highly recommend making like a little penguin and visiting one of my favourite Tasmanian towns.