Traversing Tasmania - North Tasmania

August 13, 2018

Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre

Traversing the ruins © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I’ve found another Tasmanian treasure trove: Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre. If you visit, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the ruins (above ground) of the original Tasmania Mine and also to walk around the headframe of the Beaconsfield Gold Mine. Inside, there are several, highly interactive exhibits. View displays of mining equipment, communication equipment, the history of the local area and the stories of the mines, including the 2006 Beaconsfield Mine tragedy and rescue.

Miners' Hut — Miners’ Hut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre taught me a lot. I now know a little bit about how to mine gold and I can tell you now that I won’t be quitting my day job because mining is tough work! Seeing the inventiveness of the miners, particularly in the desperate days of the rescue at Beaconsfield Mine, was astounding. Simple objects become game-changers in the hands of people who need a solution, fast.

The buildings that house the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre are gorgeous. The newer building, while essentially a block, is well-landscaped and the historic shell is very photogenic. You’ll enjoy viewing the historic machinery, telephones and house-hold goods. These have been donated by the local community. Who knew that industrial objects could be beautiful too? You’ll find something fascinating around every corner.

Interactive

Mine Headframe © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The absolute icing on the cake for me was that I was able to interact with most exhibits. From the red phone box, I called Mr Traversing Tasmania on the wall phone. I crawled through a tunnel, played an old piano and tried my hand at moving some of the mining equipment. It turns out that I might need to buff up a bit. Mr Traversing Tasmania also got me with the water wheel. Luckily, I was wearing my raincoat!

Family-Friendly

Machinery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The great thing for families is that you’re allowed to touch almost everything that you can touch. Phew! The precious (or dangerous) items are stored behind barriers or glass. The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre has clearly been planned with kids in mind. There’s a sandpit complete with a family of diggers outside under a veranda. Alternatively, your kids might want to explore an old miners hut. Look for the yellow hand symbols for interactive exhibits.

What to Bring

One of the wonderful things about visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is that you are able to walk through the yard, around the A-frame mineshaft. This does mean, however, that you’re out in the weather. Wear sturdy footwear and weather-appropriate clothes for comfort. I also recommend bringing a picnic lunch to eat in the park opposite. It is a beautifully kept park with play equipment and even a few miners’ huts to look at.

Getting There

Beaconsfield is approximately a 40-minute drive north of Launceston. You can either travel up the East Tamar Highway, crossing the Batman Bridge, or you can travel up the West Tamar Highway. In summer, pick your own berries at Hillwood Berry Farm on the eastern shore or, year-round, stop for a walk at either Tamar Island or Notley Fern Gorge on the eastern shore. Once you reach Beaconsfield, just drive towards the mine shaft. You can’t miss it! You’ll find plenty of parking at the Heritage Centre.

Cost

At $15 per adult, $12 per concession and $5 per child (children under 5 are free), visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is a bargain. Put it this way: You could pay (more) to sit through a movie, which you might or might not like and probably wouldn’t bother watching again, or you could race around like an excited kid, pressing buttons, exploring a historic site and learning more about Tassie’s history. I’d visit again in a heartbeat!

There’s lots more to see (or read about) in Tasmania’s north, north west, west coast, south, east coast, midlands or central highlands. Happy exploring!

August 5, 2018

Liffey Falls

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river — Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.

May 20, 2018December 11, 2018

Tailrace Park

River Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is such a delight to find one of Tasmania’s hidden gems. This is, admittedly, a very small gem but it is beautiful nonetheless. And it is hidden. Even Google maps haven’t discovered it yet, or at least not the boardwalk part of it! I’ve been out to Tamar Island several times but what I didn’t realise is that there is another boardwalk that leads you out onto the Tamar River. The Tailrace Park has its own version, allowing you to emerge from the dense tree-line onto the river proper.

As the name suggests, Tailrace Park is located next to a tailrace, this one from the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. I find the tailrace itself fascinating and beautiful. First, you’ll see a recently constructed embankment beneath the road. The turbulence of the tailrace eroded the previous embankment away, such is the force of moving water. Next, you’ll spy a yacht or two as well as pelicans. We talked to someone who spotted a seal in the water just after we had visited. I guess it’s a great place for a seal spa bath!

When you reach Tailrace Park proper, keep left (you’ll need to head around the boatshed though) and you’ll find the boardwalk. This leads through the scrub and trees to a picnic table with more views of the tailrace. Walk on and you’ll find yourself on the river’s edge. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the place where the bush meets the water. This part of the river reminds me of the west coast.

Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also spot some lovely sights such as the new Silos Hotel (if you look hard!) and the old shipyards. Both speak of Launceston’s past as a port. You’ll understand, when you look down at the deep mud beneath your feet, that the port’s heyday was always going to end at some point.

At the end of the boardwalk, you’ll emerge back into Tailrace Park. I must admit that I was tempted to have a go on the very tall slide. If you’ve brought some snags, you can cook them on one of the Rotary sponsored public barbecues.

Getting There

You’ll find Tailrace Park on West Tamar Road, opposite the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. It is about 5 – 10 minutes’ drive from Launceston’s CBD or a leisurely one hour walk. There is ample on-site free parking.

Cost

Free parking, barbeques, picnic tables, a park, slides, a boardwalk, wildlife, river views… You’ll have a lot of fun for zero cost at Tailrace Park. My only regret was that I had to leave! Enjoy one Tasmania’s lovely free parks.

Read on for more adventures in Tassie’s north, midlands or north-west or take your journey one step further and cruise the Tamar River. Looking for another free, short walk? Try nearby Cataract Gorge Reserve or Tamar Island.

March 4, 2018

Quamby Estate Golf Course

I’m not a golfer. I do have a hit from time to time, usually when I’m 100% certain that no one is watching! If you want to know about the golf course’s features (which include Scottish-sand bunkers) or tricks for conquering challenging holes, my apologies. However, if you are interested in Tasmania’s heritage and the splendid setting of Quamby Estate Golf Course or are thinking of perhaps visiting the course for the first time, read on!

I have been to a handful of Tasmania’s golf courses. I’ve toured glorified paddocks (which was a lot of fun!) and gorgeous courses that left me (internally) screaming “get me out of here!” due to the faux-genteel clientele. Quamby Estate Golf Course is quite different. For one, the people are friendly. The main drawcard for me, however, is the quiet stateliness of the course.

Views of the Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Quamby Estate Golf Course has views of rolling fields, the Great Western Tiers and Ben Lomond. On the property, the original Georgian estate house and outbuildings have been well maintained. You can stay in the estate house, making the golf course attractive for stay-and-play visitors. The original avenues of trees have been put to good use, regally lining the fairways. You’ll particularly enjoy the second hole, hidden behind a stand of trees, which includes teeing off over a lake! I didn’t mind being a non-playing partner in such a beautiful setting.

Quamby Estate is an integral part of Tasmania’s history. Once, it was the home of the family of Sir Richard Dry, Tasmania’s first locally born premier. You won’t find interpretive placards anywhere but I can promise you that you’ll enjoy strolling through what once was the family gardens.

What to Bring

It goes without saying that you’ll need to wear weather-appropriate clothing, from the feet up. The wrong shoes will see you slipping over or sliding when you’re teeing off. I was just walking the course so wore sports shoes. Mr. Traversing Tasmania’s shoes are pictured above – he recommends golf shoes for grip and warm, dry feet. You’ll find that the pro-shop staff are very friendly and will kindly welcome you onto the golf course no matter what you’re wearing (jeans for me, oops!). If you’d like to look the part, wear collared polo shirts and cotton trousers/shorts/skirts (or similar).

Getting There

Driveway © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find Quamby Estate Golf Course about 5 minutes’ drive from the rural town of Hagley. From Launceston, drive north on the Bass Highway for approximately 25 minutes. Turn left when you see signs for Hagley, then turn right onto Hagley Station Lane (and right again onto Meander Valley Road B54). From here, follow signs for Quamby Estate (the golf course is on the estate). If you’re travelling south from Devonport, follow signs for Hagley. Turn left onto B54, following signs for Quamby Estate.

Cost

You’ll pay $20 for 9 holes or $25 for 18 holes (twice around the course) which is very reasonable. There is a pro-shop onsite (housed in a shipping container!) from which you can hire clubs. You can buy a Quamby Estate Golf Course membership for $465 (full members) – a social membership is $395. For current prices, see Quamby Estate’s website. Enjoy a classy day of golf!

Staying a while? Nearby Hazelbrae Nut Farm is gorgeous (and delicious) and (seasonally) the Rupertswood Farm Crop Maze is not to be missed. Further afield, you’ll find lots to do in the midlands, north and north-west of Tasmania.

February 4, 2018November 18, 2018

Crestview Blueberry Farm

I’m still deciding which is my favourite pick-your-own fruit farm in Tasmania. Crestview Blueberry Farm is definitely a contender. Does it have a café? No. Public amenities? No (there is a porta-loo though). A sealed car park? No. What is does have is an abundance of gorgeous blueberries for a very reasonable price. That’s a win for me!

Picking your own fruit has many benefits. Firstly, you’re out in the great outdoors. Secondly, you see how your fruit grows (and why it’s so expensive to have it picked and packaged for you!). Wonderfully, Crestview Blueberry Farm is an organic farm. Finally, you can choose your own fruit. Some people are very fussy pickers, selecting only the plumpest fruit but I tend to have a fill-the-freezer attitude! Take friends and family and it’s a community event.

Blueberries are a fantastic berry. They are easy to eat, freeze well and make a delicious addition to smoothies. You can even use them as ice-cubes on a hot summer’s day. My picking tips are to look for the dark-blue (almost grey) berries, check for marks/splits and remove stalks (you don’t want to pay for those!). Crouch down inside the bush then look up and you’ll find glorious bunches of blueberries!

Blueberry Rows © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Of course, it’s not all fun and games! I have plenty of scratches on my arms and crouching down inside a blueberry bush is hard work. There are creepy crawlies; you’ll find spiders scurrying out of your blueberry bucket (they are often quite small – nothing to worry about!). I highly recommend the adventure of picking your own berries though.

What to Bring

Although blueberry bushes are shady, it’s hot work picking the berries so you’ll need sun protection and drinking water. There is a porta-loo available at the farm or you can use the public amenities at Lilydale Waterfall Reserve, which is about a five minute drive away. If you bring your own food, there are a few spots to sit and eat or you can purchase food in Lilydale. You’ll need to bring cash as credit card/EFTPOS facilities are not available.

Getting There

Crestview Blueberry Farm is a half-hour drive north of Launceston via Lilydale. Don’t make a special trip out unless you know that it is open; check the farm’s Facebook page or ring ahead first. From Lilydale, keep travelling north but take care as there are some sharp turns just after the Lilydale Waterfall Reserve. At the top of the hill after the turns, you’ll find the farm on the right-hand side of the road – it is clearly signposted but has a tricky driveway to navigate. You’ll find plenty of parking but it is on gravel and grassed areas. If you’re using Google Maps to navigate, just type in Crestview (and nothing else) or the physical address (524 Golconda Road, Lebrina).

Cost

Crestview Blueberry Farm is open in January and February (sometimes March too). Have a look at their Facebook page for up-to-date opening hours and farm closures. This year (2018), I paid $7 per k/g for blueberries (remember to bring enough cash). When you enter the farm shed, you’ll see a stack of white buckets. Take one and fill it and you’ll have approximately 3.5kg of blueberries. Last time I checked supermarket prices for a tiny, tiny punnet of blueberries, that’s a fabulous price!

Looking for more to do in the area? Head to Bridestowe Lavender Estate or choose your own adventure in Tasmania’s midlands, north or not too far away east coast.

January 27, 2018

Greens Beach

Our swimming spot... — Our swimming spot… © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Two days ago, we went for a beautiful swim at Greens Beach. Following the coastal track around to a rocky outcrop, the water was clear, cool and deep. We saw a school of tiny fish, a jellyfish and something that looked pufferfish-esque. Today, the tide was out. Way out. A lady sat in a deck-chair in the exact spot that I had been out-of-my-depth in the ocean two days before. Welcome to Greens Beach!

Low tide © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Greens Beach is very popular with families. When the tide is in, its shallow expanse makes for warm water and a kind environment for beginner swimmers. If you like deeper water, walk out on the coastal track or on the rocks. When the tide is out, my only recommendation is to get in (once you’ve made the long walk across the sand to the water!) and enjoy yourself. If swimming isn’t your thing, you can walk along the beach or around the headland to West Head Lookout. There’s also a nearby golf course if you prefer a different sort of walk.

Views of Low Head Lighthouse make Greens Beach very picturesque. Like East Beach (on the other side of the Tamar River), you’ll also see the distinctive orange of lichen covered rocks. There are more treasures to be found in the rock pools.

What to Bring

Bring all the usual beach gear – towel, swimmers, sun-protective gear, water, friends, flotation devices and, of course, your deck chair. The takeaway shop across the road was doing a roaring trade when we visited the beach; I hear that they do very good chips.

Getting There

View of Low Head Lighthouse from the rocks © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It’ll take you about 50 minutes to drive from Launceston to Greens Beach on the West Tamar Highway. Stay on the highway until Beaconsfield. After the petrol station in Beaconsfield, turn left, following signs for Greens Beach (C720). If you do stay on the A7, you’ll just take a scenic tour to Beauty Point (which I highly recommend!) before making it to Greens Beach. You’ll find parking spaces at the beach front and in nearby streets.

Cost

Swimming © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

All public beaches in Tasmania are free to access. You can also use the barbecues and amenities for free. If you’re feeling particularly sporty, there’s exercise equipment to use and there’s also a playground for the kids. All in all, Greens Beach is a great place to go adventuring!

Staying in Tasmania? There’s plenty to explore in the nearby north, midlands and north west regions.