Central Highlands Archive - Tasmania

January 8, 2019January 8, 2019

Waddamana Power Station

Entrance © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The central highlands is an excellent yet underrated part of Tasmania. Boasting dramatic landscapes, world heritage wilderness, freshwater fishing, pencil pines, engineering feats of yesteryear, Australia’s oldest golf course and luxury accommodation, it is a good idea to add the area to your “must see” list. One of the fascinating things to explore in the central highlands is the power scheme. I’ve visited Pumphouse Point and Poatina Power Station (open to the public only occasionally) and can now add Waddamana Power Station to the list. Although very different to the other two sites, it is equally as impressive.

Waddamana B Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is difficult to imagine how on earth the power stations, pumphouses, watercourses and so on that criss-cross the central highlands were built in the early 1900s. When you see the terrain for yourself, you’ll understand what I mean! Many of the workers arrived on foot from Launceston, something that I don’t recommend trying out yourself! Waddamana A Power Station is the station that has been restored and is now open to the public. You can catch glimpses of Waddamana B Power Station but it is not open for inspection.

Why visit?

Exposed turbine © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find the building itself impressive. It a tribute to a bygone era where industrial buildings were both functional and beautiful. The fall of the pipes to the power station down the hillside also makes for a spectacular backdrop. Inside, visit the original offices, see the logbooks, explore a store of tools. If you’re feeling cold, sit in the heated history room and view footage of some the station’s key events. My favourite thing to do is to walk between the turbines. There is a large array of them, all restored and one stripped so that you can see the inner workings.

Turbines and alternators © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Walk to the end of the hall and have a look at the smaller exhibits too. I learnt that ceramic insulators were used originally (before the invention of polymer and plastic insulators). They are rather beautiful works of art! Upstairs, you’ll find another exhibit, this time showcasing life in Waddamana and the central highlands in the early- to mid-1900s. On your way out, make sure that you say hello to Joe the dachshund (sausage dog) and his lovely owner.

What to Bring

Traversing Waddamana Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll want to bring food and water with you. Between the drive in and out of the power station and the hour or so that you spend exploring it, you’ll have worked up an appetite and there are no cafes nearby. I also recommend dressing appropriately for the weather forecast as it can be very cold in the central highlands. The history room is the only heated part of the station, so you can shelter there if needed!

Getting There

The yard © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Waddamana Power Station is located between the towns of Miena and Bothwell. Take the A5 and then detour via the C178. Check for road closures before you start out. Even though it wasn’t snowing, we were caught out by unexpected roadworks. We had to double-back towards Bothwell, making the trip longer than anticipated. It will take you approximately one hour and forty-five minutes to drive from either Launceston or Hobart to Waddamana, if all of the roads are open. Hydro Tasmania currently advise that the roadworks are ongoing (check their website here), although you can time your trip to coincide with a break in the roadworks. Give yourself more time and enjoy the scenery!

Cost

You’ll visit Waddamana Power Station for FREE!!!! Even better, the museum is open daily from 10am – 4pm, except for major public holidays (Christmas Day, Boxing Day and Good Friday). You will shell out quite a bit in petrol to get there. That said, the central highlands region is well worth the visit.

Want to visit more of the central highlands’ power scheme? Pumphouse Point is magnificent and, although rarely open, I highly recommend exploring Poatina Power Station. Other nearby attractions include Ratho Farm (housing Australia’s oldest golf course) or you can head further afield to the west, south, north or to the midlands.

October 14, 2018October 14, 2018

Ratho Farm

I love Tasmania’s central highlands. You’ll find snow in winter and clear blue skies in summer, with the lakes and mountains giving a stunning backdrop to rural pastures year-round. Some of Tasmania’s best country is here. The early Scottish settlers obviously shared my sentiments. Ratho Farm was established in the early 1800s, along with Australia’s oldest golf course (Rath Farm Golf Course), which winds its way around the homestead. The homestead looks rather grand but is quirky! You’ll enjoy exploring the homestead, golf course and the grounds of Ratho Farm.

Accommodation

The Stables © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You can choose to stay in convict-built cottages that have been tastefully renovated. These converted farm outbuildings are grouped quite closely together, closer than I expected. If you want more privacy, the Bakery is a separate building but it is still close to other cottages. If you travel with family and friends, you can book out an entire building (or the entire site!). Ratho Farm staff suggested paying a little extra for a premium suite with views of the Clyde River and I’m glad that the Scottish penny-pinching side of me didn’t win out. Waking up to views of a spectacular purple sunset over the river on our first day there was AMAZING!

Food

Homestead © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bothwell is in rural Tasmania and is a long way from the major cities. For this reason, I highly recommend booking breakfast and perhaps dinner for your stay. At the very least, you’ll need a plan of where you’ll eat dinner as the local pub is only open on certain nights of the week. You can choose to eat some of your meals at Nant Distillery too (expensive but lovely food). We brought our own lunch with us. Our host was very good at catering for dietary requirements which was lovely! If you give a few days’ warning, your requests will be accommodated. Having breakfast in the aged, stately dining room or cheese and wine by the fire in the lounge room is a wonderful experience. You can imagine, if you ignore anything reliant on electricity, what life might have been like for the Reid family who built the homestead.

Dining Room © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The best thing about eating at Ratho Farm is being in the homestead and getting to know the other guests over a meal. Being Tasmanian, you never know who you’ll meet where. We checked in at the same time as family friends (one of whom taught me many years ago too!), neither of us knowing that the other was going to be there. We ended up having a lovely time with them, sharing meals and playing golf together. Getting to know the other guests was also lovely.

Animals

Ratho Farm has a handful of “hairy coos” (Scottish highland cows), a peacock (heard but not seen by us), wallabies, platypus and a whole lot of sheep. At the suggestion of our host, I was up early to see the platypus in the river directly opposite our cottage. I was teased with a five second swim across the surface and then platypus got down to the business of eating (on the river bed), which meant that there were no more sightings despite me trying to wait it out! The sheep were not so shy. We saw ewes and lambs on our way to dinner, out on the golf course, on our evening walks and even in the loungeroom after dinner on our second evening. A young family had joined us for dinner in the homestead and our host brought in the two orphan lambs to entertain the kids (and us!).

What to Bring

Springtime © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll definitely need warm clothing. When we visited, in early Spring, the days heated up nicely but, being in the highlands, the temperature sure did drop overnight. I donned my beanie and gloves on the walk to dinner. Sturdy shoes for dodging the sheep poop and mud are a must! Otherwise, bring your usual creature comforts, including a good book. For tips on what to bring for a game of golf, see my post on Ratho Farm Golf Course.

Getting There

Verandah © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm is a minute’s drive north of beautiful Bothwell in Tasmania’s Central Highlands. The farm is an hour away from Hobart and an hour and a half away from Launceston. From Hobart, head north on the Midlands Highway, turning left at Melton Mowbray and following signs for Bothwell. From Launceston, drive south via Longford and Poatina (or Deloraine via Miena), following signs for Bothwell. Make sure that you allow for extra time to explore Tassie’s picturesque countryside.

Cost

Clyde River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You are welcome to visit Ratho Farm for a round of golf or a squiz at the farm anytime of the year. Staying overnight is not cheap but it is enjoyable. For a double/twin-share room, 2018 prices are $175 for a standard room or $195 per night for a premium suite. The extra $20 per night gives you either a view of the Clyde River or a working fireplace. Firewood, meals and golf are additional extras although you can sometimes find package deals available. You’ll be glad to know that, unlike similar Tasmanian establishments, there is no minimum night stay (except possibly in peak seasons) so you can book a night on your way somewhere else. Mind you, if you want to play a round of golf, I recommend booking two nights and making the most of the relaxing setting. Enjoy your stay at Ratho Farm!

If you enjoy a round of golf, read my post about Ratho Farm Golf Course. For more to do in the central highlands, click here. If you’re passing through, enjoy your trip south, north, west or to the midlands.

October 6, 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course

The Homestead from Hole 15 © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Dodging sheep poo while playing a round of golf probably doesn’t sound like fun but Ratho Farm Golf Course is fantastic. Disclaimer: I don’t play golf. I do, however, spend quality time walking various courses with Mr. Traversing Tasmania and I highly rate Ratho Farm.

A quality that Ratho Farm Golf Course has in bucketloads is entertainment factor. There’s poop to dodge, parts of the Clyde River to navigate, tricky holes to play and, of course, the wildlife. We visited in Spring when the lambs were newly born (or being born, as happened on our last morning there!) and it was lovely to have them as our golfing companions; the course is sheep-grazed in places. We saw a wallaby and heard a peacock.

Even if all the animals go into hiding when you visit, the course itself is enjoyably tricky. The par 70 doesn’t really indicate what lies ahead (the 5.373 km course length gives you a hint though!). What might seem at first to be a straightforward hole can bring you undone if you misplace your shot because you’re liable to land in some “rabbit scrape” (as is noted in the historic rules). Hole 15 is particularly challenging as you need to tee off cleanly to avoid the trees and the river (Mr. Traversing Tasmania succeeded on his second go!). You’ll also have to navigate over (or through) hedges in places. It’s a lot of fun to watch, if not to play!

Australia’s Oldest Golf Course

Teeing off near the Toilet.. — Teeing off near the Toilet… © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course begins and ends at the historic homestead. It’s a beautiful building. You can even hire hickory clubs to really feel part of the setting. When you tee off at the first hole, note the outdoor toilet with removable waste tray – ingenious! Ratho Farm is Australia’s oldest golf course, first created by Scottish settlers to the Central Highlands in the early 1800s. Just playing a round of golf here makes you feel like part of history.

Farm meets Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It’s easy to see why the Scottish Reid family chose this land for a golf course. The Clyde River meanders through the back few holes and gorgeous trees line the course. I also enjoyed the humble farming setting. Someone was burning off across the road, the farm next door had been freshly ploughed and cows and sheep created a chorus with the birds. Bliss! That said, some parts of the course were rough but this only added to the charm.

What to Bring

You can bring your own golf clubs or you can hire a set from Ratho Farm homestead. They even have hickory sets for hire if you’d like to really embrace the heritage of the course. Be prepared to scrape poop off your gear though so don’t bring anything too precious!! As always in Tasmania, be aware of the weather and dress accordingly. The Central Highlands can be very cold and at other times you can end up with a touch of sunburn, speaking from experience!

Getting There

Highland Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course is located in Bothwell in Tasmania’s Central Highlands. You can take the scenic route between Launceston and Hobart via the Central Highlands and stop off for a round of golf. From Hobart, drive up the Midlands Highway, turning left at Melton Mowbray and following signs for Bothwell. It will take you just over an hour to reach Ratho Farm. Alternatively, drive south from Launceston via Longford and Poatina (or Deloraine via Miena), following signs for Bothwell. You’ll travel for over an hour and a half from Deloraine or just under two hours from Launceston. Whichever way you drive, the views are sensational!

Cost

You’ll pay $25 to play nine holes. The back nine are apparently easier than the front nine – take your pick! Alternatively, pay $40 to play all eighteen holes. You can hire a buggy and set of clubs for an extra $15. If you know that you’ll be there for lunch, organise this with Ratho Farm staff in advance as they are very obliging if given enough notice. Enjoy having a hit on Australia’s oldest (and quirkiest?!) golf course.

Interested in visiting Ratho Farm Golf Course? Read my sister post on Ratho Farm (coming soon!). Heading elsewhere in Tasmania? Visit historic Richmond (in the south), Woolmers Estate (in the north) or Stanley (on the north west coast – there’s a lovely golf course there) or have a round of golf at Quamby.

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.

November 11, 2017November 11, 2017

Poatina Power Station

Poatina Power Station. What an incredible experience! As you approach by road, marvel at the views of the Great Western Tiers. Board a bus. Descend to the power station through an underground tunnel. Find yourself in a 1960s time capsule. Admire the engineering, the monstrous turbines, and the feat of creating electricity.

I was not expecting interior design in a power station. In the mid-1960s, when Poatina Power Station was built, aesthetics was clearly a priority! A myrtle bannister runs the length of the station. A commissioned artwork keeps time on the tiled back wall. The walls of the generators are painted bright red. Brass trim on the floor plates signals a time that was just a little bit classy. Some of the machines even have original control panels.

Traversing Poatina Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It’s not all about the décor though. Step onto the floor plates near an operational turbine and you’ll feel the power of it as it turns below you. Study the original drawings of the turbines and of the station. Look three floors down to the water beneath you. Ask one of the staff about what it’s like to work on the turbines, just above the water, in a noisy cavern. Admire the parts on display, including a selection of giant spanners and a turbine.

Generators © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The wonderful thing about Poatina power station is that it takes advantage of the lie of the land. From a 5.6km headrace tunnel in Great Lake above, through 1.8km of giant above-ground pipes, water falls 150m to the Poatina Station Turbines. Gravity does a lot of the work. In simple terms, the water hitting the turbines at speed causes them to spin, which creates electricity through a series of energy conversions (potential to kinetic to mechanical to magnetic to electrical).

What to Bring

Safety gear is provided by Hydro Tasmania but you’ll need to wear a long-sleeved top, long pants and sturdy, covered-in shoes. It was quite warm in the power station. When possible, it is kept at a constant temperature in order to keep the machinery running smoothly so you probably won’t need a jacket. You aren’t allowed to bring food, water or other personal belongings. You should bring your phone for photo-taking, however, there’s no phone reception down there.

Getting There

Entry tunnel © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Poatina Power Station is about a two-minute drive uphill from Poatina Village. From Launceston, head south through Longford and Cressy. Keep heading south, following signs for Poatina. I absolutely love driving on the road towards the Great Western Tiers. What a view! From Hobart, you can take the highway through Bothwell before descending to Poatina. You’ll have spectacular views of the midlands.

Cost

Control panels © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The lovely thing about Tasmania is that there are many free community events. Hydro Tasmania’s tours of Poatina Power Station may only happen occasionally but they are free and good quality. Keep an eye on Hydro Tasmania’s website and social media pages for more information about upcoming open days at power stations across Tasmania.

Read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s midlands, north and south.