Traversing Tasmania Archives - Page 2 of 18

September 8, 2018September 8, 2018

Fossil Cove

Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of a quiet street in the peaceful bushland south of Kingston is a secluded cove: Fossil Cove. There is no designated car park. A simple wooden sign post marks the start of the track. When we arrived, there was only one other car there. Don’t be fooled by the humble beginnings of your journey: Your destination is spectacular.

The track to Fossil Cove is easy to traverse, downhill. You’ll do the hard work on the way back up! There are well-defined stairs. Enjoy strolling through the bush and take time to explore the rock formations beside the track as you descend. I must admit that I rather like seeing the neighbouring properties too. What a place to live! In about fifteen minutes’ time, you’ll find yourself at the top of a staircase, staring out to sea.

Many delights await you. There are rock shelves and pools to explore, shells to find and an archway to walk through at low tide to a neighbouring cove. If you enjoy a spot of fishing, there are fish to be caught. When you sit down on one of the rock shelves, don’t be surprised by what lies beneath you.

Fossils

It’s easy to understand how Fossil Cove got its name. You’ll see for yourself the varied, intricate, multitude of fossils imprinted on the rock shelves. I could spend a long time admiring them. Fish, shells, from eons ago. Look up at your surroundings too. You’ll see a tree, clinging to the clifftop. There are views of the River Derwent, the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island.

What to Bring

The walk to Fossil Cove is a short one (approximately 45 minutes return) but do wear sturdy shoes as the track can be muddy. You never know how long you’ll stay exploring so bring some water and a snack. Check the tide times too. Unless you’re prepared to get very wet and walk on slippery rocks, access through the arch is limited to (very) low tide. Leave your usual beach paraphernalia behind and enjoy a different kind of waterside experience!

Getting There

Blackmans Bay is a 15-minute drive south of Hobart’s CBD via either Taroona (the scenic route) or the Southern Outlet. Once you’re in Blackmans Bay, head south on Tinderbox Road until you reach Fossil Cove Drive. When you reach the end of the cul-de-sac, park your car beside the road and begin your descent to the majestic Fossil Cove.

Cost

Fossil Cove is one of Tassie’s delightful freebies. Pay in kind by staying on the track, taking your litter away with you and leaving the cove’s contents behind for future visitors. Remember to take lots of photos! It is a truly remarkable place.

Nearby attractions include Taroona’s Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 2, 2018September 2, 2018

Waterworks Reserve

Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the west, north, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

August 13, 2018

Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre

Traversing the ruins © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I’ve found another Tasmanian treasure trove: Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre. If you visit, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the ruins (above ground) of the original Tasmania Mine and also to walk around the headframe of the Beaconsfield Gold Mine. Inside, there are several, highly interactive exhibits. View displays of mining equipment, communication equipment, the history of the local area and the stories of the mines, including the 2006 Beaconsfield Mine tragedy and rescue.

Miners' Hut — Miners’ Hut © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre taught me a lot. I now know a little bit about how to mine gold and I can tell you now that I won’t be quitting my day job because mining is tough work! Seeing the inventiveness of the miners, particularly in the desperate days of the rescue at Beaconsfield Mine, was astounding. Simple objects become game-changers in the hands of people who need a solution, fast.

The buildings that house the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre are gorgeous. The newer building, while essentially a block, is well-landscaped and the historic shell is very photogenic. You’ll enjoy viewing the historic machinery, telephones and house-hold goods. These have been donated by the local community. Who knew that industrial objects could be beautiful too? You’ll find something fascinating around every corner.

Interactive

Mine Headframe © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The absolute icing on the cake for me was that I was able to interact with most exhibits. From the red phone box, I called Mr Traversing Tasmania on the wall phone. I crawled through a tunnel, played an old piano and tried my hand at moving some of the mining equipment. It turns out that I might need to buff up a bit. Mr Traversing Tasmania also got me with the water wheel. Luckily, I was wearing my raincoat!

Family-Friendly

Machinery © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The great thing for families is that you’re allowed to touch almost everything that you can touch. Phew! The precious (or dangerous) items are stored behind barriers or glass. The Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre has clearly been planned with kids in mind. There’s a sandpit complete with a family of diggers outside under a veranda. Alternatively, your kids might want to explore an old miners hut. Look for the yellow hand symbols for interactive exhibits.

What to Bring

One of the wonderful things about visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is that you are able to walk through the yard, around the A-frame mineshaft. This does mean, however, that you’re out in the weather. Wear sturdy footwear and weather-appropriate clothes for comfort. I also recommend bringing a picnic lunch to eat in the park opposite. It is a beautifully kept park with play equipment and even a few miners’ huts to look at.

Getting There

Beaconsfield is approximately a 40-minute drive north of Launceston. You can either travel up the East Tamar Highway, crossing the Batman Bridge, or you can travel up the West Tamar Highway. In summer, pick your own berries at Hillwood Berry Farm on the eastern shore or, year-round, stop for a walk at either Tamar Island or Notley Fern Gorge on the eastern shore. Once you reach Beaconsfield, just drive towards the mine shaft. You can’t miss it! You’ll find plenty of parking at the Heritage Centre.

Cost

At $15 per adult, $12 per concession and $5 per child (children under 5 are free), visiting the Beaconsfield Mine and Heritage Centre is a bargain. Put it this way: You could pay (more) to sit through a movie, which you might or might not like and probably wouldn’t bother watching again, or you could race around like an excited kid, pressing buttons, exploring a historic site and learning more about Tassie’s history. I’d visit again in a heartbeat!

There’s lots more to see (or read about) in Tasmania’s north, north west, west coast, south, east coast, midlands or central highlands. Happy exploring!

August 5, 2018

Liffey Falls

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river — Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.

July 20, 2018July 29, 2018

Pumphouse Point

Did you know that you can stay the night in a converted pumphouse out on the waters of Tasmania’s beautiful Lake St Clair? There’s something therapeutic about arriving in the middle of nowhere, breathing in the fresh mountain air and walking 240 metres across the water to a rather grand building. This is Pumphouse Point.

When you open the giant door to the pumphouse, you’ll notice the architecture, both old and new. Modern cladding meets historic steel-framed windows. It’s a lovely combination. From the two shared lounge areas, you can admire the floor-to-ceiling bay window and its view of Lake St Clair. On a clear day, you’ll see the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Slide the panel up in the downstairs lounge area to experience the view and the bracing weather from the downstairs balcony. Refreshing!

All rooms have lovely views, an en suite and a larder. Of course, you’ll pay more for extra features. No matter which room you choose, it’s all the little touches that will make your heart sing. In the larder, you’ll find a small kitchen area (bench, sink, microwave and fridge) and a tempting selection of Tasmanian produce available for purchase. Just inside the door, take note of the backpack with picnic crockery set. The en suite was a highlight with exposed piping.

A unique feature of Pumphouse Point is that it is designed to bring people together. You are always welcome in the three shared lounge areas (one in the shore house and two in the pumphouse). These feature honesty bars, where you record the drinks you consume and pay at the end of your stay. For an additional cost, you can participate in a dinner of shared plates, much like Christmas dinner actually! It was lovely to get to know the others who were staying at Pumphouse Point with us.

If you’ve had enough of eating, sleeping, admiring the view or reading and chatting in the shared lounge areas, there’s still more to do. You could use one of the complimentary bikes to cycle around the shore of Lake St Clair (not the whole way, of course!!). There are also fishing rods for hire and complimentary rowboats to use for an afternoon picnic. We walked the property’s tracks and enjoyed more spectacular views of the pumphouse and the lake.

Before you leave, make sure that you take the time to participate in one of the daily tours of the pumphouse. Join a free tour at 9:15am daily by meeting at the pumphouse door. You’ll find the history (and the visual illusions – you’ll have to do the tour to find out!) of Pumphouse Point rather interesting. It’s wonderful to be able to see the inner workings of the pumphouse up close and personal, including the modern systems in place in a historic building.

What to Bring

Shore house © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Lake St Clair is 738 metres above sea level so, no matter what the season, prepare for unpredictable weather. To truly enjoy Lake St Clair, you’ll want to bring sturdy walking boots and waterproof clothing. Although you can purchase snacks from your larder, I also recommend bringing food, water and basic first aid supplies for hiking. Climbing one of the nearby peaks is very tempting but should not be done without preparation. If you’re staying out on the water, you’ll also need a head-torch to navigate the flume at night. You will also need a Parks Pass. You can purchase one from reception on arrival for $24 per vehicle per day.

Getting There

Pumphouse Point is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous. If possible, arrive at Pumphouse Point before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the local wildlife. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native animals.

Cost

Pumphouse Point can only be visited if you stay there overnight. The cost ranges from approximately $300 to $1500 per night depending on your choice of room, with a minimum two-night stay. This includes a hearty breakfast. I highly recommend booking a shared dinner in the shore house too. Lunch can be enjoyed in the local pub in Derwent Bridge or you can bring your own food supplies or raid your in-room larder. We stayed in a ground floor room out on the water and relished seeing the changing colours of the lake and sky. No matter what the cost, Pumphouse Point is impressive.

From Pumphouse Point, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands.