Strahan

Traversing Strahan
Reflections
Reflections © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a lovely town for many reasons. Firstly, the west coast wilderness creeps right up to the edges of the town, giving it a fairy-tale setting. Lovely walks, such as the hike to Hogarth Falls, fall within the town’s boundaries. Secondly, it’s a picturesque port. Boats are anchored against a backdrop of misty wilderness. What a wonderful place!

Morrison's Huon Pine Sawmill
Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is a town that has seen many a hard time. Originally a piners and miners town, it was formed by sheer grit. The collapse of mining in recent years has meant a new fight for the town’s survival, this time through tourism ventures like Gordon River Cruises. Several industries have stood the test of time: Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill is a living museum and The Ship that Never Was is Australia’s longest running (and arguably funniest) theatre show.

Gordon River Cruise
Gordon River Cruise © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You should visit Strahan for many reasons, the foremost being that there is nowhere else in the world like it. On our first morning in Strahan, we awoke to views of Macquarie Harbour, which is six times as large as Sydney Harbour and approximately one thousand times wilder. On our way to the Gordon River Cruise boat, we watched a historic steam train leave its station across the bay. While waiting for our boat to board, we photographed the still waters and ancient forests before purchasing a morning pick-me-up from The Coffee Shack, a cheerful cafe run by local sisters. I would head back in a heart beat.

Abt Railway, Regatta Point
Abt Railway, Regatta Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is also the gateway to many a grand adventure. From here, you can arrange an all-terrain vehicle tour of the Henty Dunes, drive on Ocean Beach, sail overnight on the Gordon River, purchase Huon Pine at mates rates, watch Australia’s longest running play, explore World Heritage Listed wilderness or steam up the mighty Abt railway. Alternatively, just stroll around the foreshore to Regatta Point. There is so much to do in Strahan that it is quite tricky to set aside time to just relax!

What to Bring

Customs Offices
Customs Offices © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Don’t leave home without your wet-weather gear. Having sturdy walking boots, waterproof pants and a raincoat will allow you to enjoy Strahan no matter how much it rains. There is a well-stocked IGA in Strahan and a petrol station, as well as restaurants, cafes, a take-away shop and the like. However, I always bring some supplies from home too, to keep costs down and to make sure that I have everything I need. Reservations are recommended at restaurants and attractions as you may miss out otherwise. Lastly, bring your Strahan bucket-list (and a realisation that, unless you have a month, you won’t get through it).

Getting There

Fishing Wharf
Fishing Wharf © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Strahan is about four and a half hours’ drive from Hobart or four hours’ drive from Launceston. Whichever way you go, the roads can be treacherous as the West Coast receives a lot of rain, which can lead to wet or icy roads, depending on the conditions. Driving from dusk to dawn is not recommended as the wildlife are large and they are at large! It is just not worth it to hit a wombat or a wallaby. Plan to arrive in Strahan at least an hour before dark (otherwise, enjoy a very slow drive…).

Enjoy your visit to Strahan! It truly is a wonderful town and I can’t wait to return. For more things to do on the west coast, read on!

 

Redwater Creek Railway

Traversing Redwater Creek Railway
Turntable
Turntable © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

One of my friends describes Cradle Mountain as “a tiny bowl of goodness”. Between Cradle Mountain and the Bass Highway, you’ll find another tiny bowl of goodness: The Redwater Creek Railway. Open on the first full weekend of each month, the railway is well preserved, enthusiastically shared with visitors and has a stunning view. It’s also just plain fun!

View of Mount Roland
View of Mount Roland © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Redwater Creek Railway is an experience not to be missed. The carriage is beautiful, as is the Krauss engine that pulls it. It takes you from the station at Sheffield for a short run to Victoria Station East, about five minutes away. What a difference a short train ride makes! Hop off and take a photo of Mount Roland. I’m told that there are plans to extend operations to provide another train station, pending approval of course. On the return journey, you might even be invited to ride in the engine.

Turning the Engine
Turning the Engine © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Back at the station, watch (or, lucky me, ride in!) the engine as it is turned on the tiniest turntable I’ve ever seen. The engine is then reattached to the carriage and it’s time for the next lot of passengers to leave. The half-hour turnaround means that you can make a short stop while you are on your way to other places in the region, such as Cradle Mountain. If you have time, there’s still plenty more to do.

Model Trains
Model Trains © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

For the young and young at heart, there is a model railway to view. Stand on the box (even if you’re an adult because the view is far superior!) and watch Thomas whizz past. He’s not the only train and nor is he the fastest. The Redwater Creek Model Railway Club have banded together to display the best of their trains and the best of their craftsmanship. We were thrilled to find it open on a Saturday as it is usually open only on Sundays in winter (there is a volunteer keen to open on Saturdays though). The one thing that you will miss out on if you visit on a Saturday is a ride on a miniature train. It looks like I’ll just have to visit the Redwater Creek Railway again!

Cafe Fireplace
Cafe Fireplace © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I recommend exploring the grounds, outbuildings and station. Take time to have a good look at the murals (Sheffield is known as the town of murals). Have a closer inspection of the tiny turntable. There is a small coffee shop on site. Have a bite to eat while warming up in front of a fire housed in a tiny boiler! You’ll see a few references to Steam Fest around the site. If you visit Redwater Creek Railway on the March long weekend, you’ll get to be part of this experience. I missed out this year but hope to be there next year.

Getting There

Redwater Creek Railway
Redwater Creek Railway © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Redwater Creek Railway is open on the first full weekend of each month on both Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 4pm. Located in Sheffield, the railway is 30 minutes’ drive from Devonport (via Spreyton). It is just under an hour away from Cradle Mountain on the C136 and just over an hour away from Launceston. From Launceston, take the Bass Highway to Elizabeth Town and turn left just past Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm. Take care on Tasmania’s roads as they can have unexpected twists and turns.

Cost

Krauss Engine
Krauss Engine © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You can ride the train at Redwater Creek Railway for just $7 per adult, $5 per pensioner or $4 per child. Children under 5 ride for free. This price includes a lovely ticket and admission to the grounds and the model railway shed. Don’t have time for a train ride? You can take photographs of the train from the platform for $2 instead. Next time you drive through Sheffield, stop and experience a tiny part of Tasmania’s goodness.

To read more about my travels in Tasmania’s North West, click here. To read about my adventures in Tasmania’s North, click here.

Launceston Tramway Museum

Traversing the Tramway
Launceston Tramway Museum © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

What do you do on a day when rain is imminent? Easy! You visit the museum. But which one? There are many museums of varying sizes and specialties in Tasmania. I visited two museums this weekend: one of our smallest and one of our biggest. Happily for me, they are actually almost next door to one another at the Inveresk Precinct: The Launceston Tramway Museum and the Queen Victoria Museum.

Imagine a world gone by. A world where your transport options include walking, riding a horse, driving (if you’re lucky), or catching a bus, train or tram. Like several Australian cities, Launceston had its own tram network and you can learn all about it at the tiny, fantastic Launceston Tramway Museum.

Two Trams
Two Trams © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Inside the museum, you can explore the interior of two very different trams, both of which tell the story of Launceston’s trams. You can see the glory of the restored Tram 8. It is a fine piece of craftsmanship, carefully built from local timbers such as Huon pine and blackwood. Sit inside it and imagine yourself back to the early- to mid-1900s. Behind it sits the dilapidated Tram 25. Inside this tram, you’ll learn how some of the trams have spent their retirement. They have been converted into summer houses, shacks or sheds, used as dining booths in restaurants or even turned, temporarily, into a clinic. Tram 25 was most famously a chook shed and is displayed to reflect this part of its history.

Launceston Tramway Museum
Launceston Tramway Museum © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The rest of the museum is dedicated to the stories of the twenty-nine trams. This is a great read for locals; I’ve dined in two of the trams. You can also view displays about the lives of the conductors and about why trams have curved roofs (and how this design was improved over time). Children will be happily entertained in the children’s tram (a purpose-built area). The best is yet to come though!

Your entry to the Launceston Tramway Museum includes a ride on the last of the trams: Tram 29. Beautifully restored, this tram leaves from outside the museum approximately every 45 minutes and takes you on a short journey up the line to the roundhouse (ironically, this can no longer be used as a roundhouse due to the low roof design) and then back down the line to the station (now a State Government building). Note that this grand old tram is a showpiece and it is not the same as riding the tourist tram in Melbourne! This is a whole new experience entirely.

Tram 29
Tram 29 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Getting There

Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It is easy to find the Inveresk Precinct as the QVMAG is located here too. It is about a fifteen-minute walk from Launceston’s CBD or you can park at the precinct for $3 per day. We spent about three hours at the precinct visiting the two museums and a café. Once you’re at the precinct, look for the tram tracks and follow them to Blue Café. It’s a lovely place for a cuppa and they cater well for food allergies too. Next door to the café, in two sheds, is the Launceston Tramway Museum. They open from 10am – 4pm every day except Sunday and public holidays and the tram runs from Wednesday to Saturday (by prior arrangement, it can also run on the Monday and Tuesday for groups).

Cost

Tram 29 Interior
Tram 29 Interior © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Entry to the museum costs $5 per adult, $4.50 per senior, $2 per child and children under 6-years-old are free! The cost includes entry to the museum and a short ride on Tram 29. What a bargain! Next time you’re in Launceston, particularly if rain is forecast, enjoy a visit to the Launceston Tramway Museum and a journey on a finely crafted tram.

To read more about my journeys in northern Tasmania, click here.