Waterworks Reserve

Traversing Waterworks Reserve
Upper Reservoir
Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

kunanyi/Mount Wellington
kunanyi/Mount Wellington © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls
Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

Museum
Museum © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table
Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees
Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

Upper Reservoir
Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9
Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the westnorth, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

Liffey Falls

Traversing Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

Great Western Tiers
Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river
Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter
Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

Track start
Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest
Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.

Tailrace Park

Traversing Tailrace Park
River Views
River Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is such a delight to find one of Tasmania’s hidden gems. This is, admittedly, a very small gem but it is beautiful nonetheless. And it is hidden. Even Google maps haven’t discovered it yet, or at least not the boardwalk part of it! I’ve been out to Tamar Island several times but what I didn’t realise is that there is another boardwalk that leads you out onto the Tamar River. The Tailrace Park has its own version, allowing you to emerge from the dense tree-line onto the river proper.

Yacht
Yacht © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

As the name suggests, Tailrace Park is located next to a tailrace, this one from the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. I find the tailrace itself fascinating and beautiful. First, you’ll see a recently constructed embankment beneath the road. The turbulence of the tailrace eroded the previous embankment away, such is the force of moving water. Next, you’ll spy a yacht or two as well as pelicans. We talked to someone who spotted a seal in the water just after we had visited. I guess it’s a great place for a seal spa bath!

Flora
Flora © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you reach Tailrace Park proper, keep left (you’ll need to head around the boatshed though) and you’ll find the boardwalk. This leads through the scrub and trees to a picnic table with more views of the tailrace. Walk on and you’ll find yourself on the river’s edge. There is something hauntingly beautiful about the place where the bush meets the water. This part of the river reminds me of the west coast.

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also spot some lovely sights such as the new Silos Hotel (if you look hard!) and the old shipyards. Both speak of Launceston’s past as a port. You’ll understand, when you look down at the deep mud beneath your feet, that the port’s heyday was always going to end at some point.

Tailrace Park
Tailrace Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of the boardwalk, you’ll emerge back into Tailrace Park. I must admit that I was tempted to have a go on the very tall slide. If you’ve brought some snags, you can cook them on one of the Rotary sponsored public barbecues.

Getting There

Walk
Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tailrace Park on West Tamar Road, opposite the Trevallyn Hydroelectric Power Station. It is about 5 – 10 minutes’ drive from Launceston’s CBD or a leisurely one hour walk. There is ample on-site free parking.

Cost

Tamar River
Tamar River © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Free parking, barbeques, picnic tables, a park, slides, a boardwalk, wildlife, river views… You’ll have a lot of fun for zero cost at Tailrace Park. My only regret was that I had to leave! Enjoy one Tasmania’s lovely free parks.

Read on for more adventures in Tassie’s north, midlands or north-west or take your journey one step further and cruise the Tamar River. Looking for another free, short walk? Try nearby Cataract Gorge Reserve or Tamar Island.

Bridestowe Lavender Estate

Traversing Bridestowe Lavender Estate
Bridestowe Lavender Estate
Bridestowe Lavender Estate © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I have visited Bridestowe Lavender Estate before, in winter. Even then, it was impressive. In summer, the lavender is in bloom, making the farm a must-see. Fields of purple follow the contours of the land, pointing to the distant Mount Arthur. It is a spectacular sight!

Bridestowe Lavender Estate
Bridestowe Lavender Estate © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You can wander through the fields for as long as you like. Once the hazy smell of the lavender, the beautiful view of Mount Arthur and the thrill of taking the perfect shot have worn off, there’s more to do. Walk down to the dam, picnic under the oak trees or stroll near the pines, admiring the intriguing statues. When you’re finished, head to the buildings.

Ice-cream!
Ice-cream! © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You now have choices. Ice-cream first? A lavender blend is available from the very cute truck. What about Devonshire tea? Lavender scones and lavender tea with lavender jam on the side await you in the café. Prefer retail therapy? The Bridestowe Lavender Estate gift store is bursting at the seams with lavender produce, including the famous Bobbie the Bear. When you’re done eating and shopping, join a guided tour.

The Distillery
The Distillery © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

As Bridestowe Lavender Estate is a historic property, the lavender distillery is well worth having a look at. The farm was founded in 1921 and relocated to Nabowla in the mid-1940s. The distillery is a quiet testament to times gone by. You’ll find antique bottles, signs, tins and equipment, as well as a brief explanation of the distilling process.

What to Bring

Lavender Fields
Lavender Fields © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It sounds obvious, given that you are visiting a farm, but do wear sturdy shoes. Even in summer, it will rain at times and the red earth turns to mud quite quickly! Wear weather-appropriate clothing and take your camera with you. Selfie-sticks are very popular (and useful) but I still can’t bring myself to use one!

Getting There

Mount Arthur
Mount Arthur © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Bridestowe Lavender Estate is approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Launceston. It is located in Nabowla, which is north-east of Lilydale. Allow extra time for sight-seeing. We stopped at Lilydale Falls Reserve on the way for a short walk as the falls are very peaceful and picturesque. You could also visit one of the well-known wineries in the area, such as Pipers Brook Vineyard or Jansz Tasmania. There is ample parking at Bridestowe Lavender Estate. Instead of driving, you can take a bus (either as a tour or just as public transport) from Launceston to the estate.

Cost

Gift Shop
Gift Shop © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll pay $10 per person to visit Bridestowe Lavender Estate when the flowers are in bloom. If you are a local or a Friend of Bridestowe (you can sign up for free on Bridestowe Lavender Estate’s website), you’ll get in for free! You can also visit the estate out of season free of charge. The shop and café both have EFTPOS facilities but I’m not sure about the ice-cream truck so take a little bit of cash with you. The estate is open from 9am to 5pm daily (except Christmas Day). Enjoy walking through the fields of lavender and soaking in a little bit more of Tasmania’s unique history.

Staying a while? Read about my adventures in Tasmania’s north and east coast.

Leven Canyon

Traversing Leven Canyon
Leven Canyon
Leven Canyon © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Today, it snowed at Leven Canyon in Tasmania’s north west. I know this because I was there. By there, I mean at Cruikshanks Lookout, high above the thundering rapids, being blasted with snow. It was awesome!

 

Picnic Area
Picnic Area © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

We arrived to a scene from a fairy-tale. Trees towered above us. Ferns surrounded the picnic area. The ground was covered in snow. If we had wanted to, we could have made a fire in the barbeque hut and cooked lunch but I’m glad that we continued to the lookout instead. It was perfect timing.

Track
Track © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Access to the lookouts is via the Fern Walk (from the lower picnic area) or via the path to Cruikshanks Lookout. The walk can be done as a circuit. I recommend visiting Cruikshanks Lookout first as you can then descend the almost-600 steps to the track below instead of ascending them.

Cruikshanks Lookout
Cruikshanks Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

When we reached Cruikshanks Lookout, it had just started snowing. The lookout juts out from the hill and is very exposed. Hold on to your hat! The Leven River roared below us and limestone cliffs stood around us at a commanding 300 metres. The wind whipped snow into our faces. It was an incredible sight: Leven Canyon seen through a veil of snow.

Forest Steps
Forest Steps © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Descend the (many!) Forest Steps to the Edge Lookout below for another spectacular view. This time, you’re much closer to the rapids but still at quite a height above them. As always with Tasmania, the weather can change at any moment. When we stepped out onto the Edge Lookout, we were greeted with the warmth of the sun (and a small pocket of phone reception!).

Leven River
Leven River © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

From the Edge Lookout, it’s an easy walk back to the carpark. Well, almost! There might not be any steps but the uphill trudge was hard-going! The track is well-maintained. There are benches at regular intervals along the circuit’s tracks. These are essentially horizontal signposts, showing you how far you are from the nearest location (car park, bridge, lookout) in either direction and are a great motivation to keep going!

Getting There

Roadside View
Roadside View © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The Leven Canyon Lookout is approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Ulverstone via the B15 or the B17 (the latter goes past the turnoff to Wings Wildlife Park). The drive there was very picturesque, with snow beside the road and on the distant mountain tops. As always with Tasmania’s country roads, take care on corners, particularly on icy days like today. When you arrive at Leven Canyon, there is ample car parking. Watch out for our native animals.

Cost

Leven Canyon
Leven Canyon © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

There are no entry fees at Leven Canyon. Toilet and wood-fired barbeque facilities are available for public use. Do not light the barbeques during a total fire ban! There are also plenty of picnic tables for public use. It’s a great spot to visit.

You can read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s beautiful north west here.