Liffey Falls

Traversing Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

Great Western Tiers
Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river
Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter
Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

Track start
Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest
Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

Liffey Falls
Liffey Falls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.

Tasmania Zoo

Bushland
Pygmy Marmoset
Pygmy Marmoset © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There’s something lovely about Tasmania Zoo. Primarily, it’s the location, on a gorgeous bush block. I also enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and the ingenuity of the play equipment and fences. With one set of my grandparents being animal activists, animals in cages can make me uneasy but I’d visit Tasmania Zoo again – they’re doing good work there.

 

Great Western Tiers
Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Nestled in the rolling hills that ring the Meander Valley, Tasmania Zoo has stellar views of the Great Western Tiers. You might want to just stand in the carpark and look west for a while. It’s beautiful. When you finally do enter the zoo, it’s surrounded by native bushland. All of this makes for a tranquil setting.

 

Wildlife
Wildlife © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

When you enter Tasmania Zoo, you’ll be greeted by friendly staff. I highly recommend booking an animal encounter along with your entry ticket. The extra dollars paid just to hold a wombat, for example, might seem pricey but you won’t regret it when you have that bundle of furry goodness in your arms! The friendliness continues with a welcome “Hello!” from a resident cockatoo. You might even find yourself standing next to a wallaby, like we did! It’s a very welcoming environment.

 

Playground
Playground © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Sustainability is clearly a focus for the staff at Tasmania Zoo. Barriers have been made from recycled gas bottles and tyres. Our friends’ kids loved the tractor tyre cum roundabout in the playground! I found myself simultaneously admiring the animals and inventiveness of some of the enclosures.

 

Sentry Duty
Sentry Duty © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Animals. That’s why we go to zoos. Standouts for me were the meerkats, the pygmy marmosets and the Tasmanian devils. Time your visit right and you’ll get to see the meerkats fed as you enter and the devils fed as you leave (or vice versa). As always with a good zoo, you’ll come away understanding more about the animals. As an eagle circled overhead and the guide explained meerkat behaviour, I understood why these cute critters stand to attention in high places – they’re on sentry duty.

 

Jurassic Swamp Walk
Jurassic Swamp Walk © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are a few other features of Tasmania Zoo that it would be remiss of me not to mention. They have a lovely array of farm animals, for instance. They also have dinosaurs… large, plastic dinosaurs! The Jurassic Swamp walk is a bit weird, to be honest, with screeching reptilian noises blasting at you from hidden speakers, but I enjoyed the walk nonetheless! Tasmania Zoo also play an active role in conserving several species that are endangered or threatened, including the Tasmanian devils.

 

What to Bring

Flat out with the Tassie devils!
Flat out with the Tassie devils! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather appropriate clothing: hats in summer; raincoats in the wet; woollies in the winter. You’ll also need sturdy shoes because you’ll be on your feet all day and you’re out and about in dusty or muddy areas too. Bring your own water bottle and snacks so that you can enjoy a cheaper day and not have to rush back to the cafe every time you get the munchies.

Getting There

Meerkats
Meerkats © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Tasmanian Zoo just outside of Riverside in northern Tasmania. From Launceston, head to the West Tamar Road/Highway then take a left onto Ecclestone Road, continuing until you reach the zoo. It’ll take you about 25 minutes to drive from Launceston’s CBD to Tasmania Zoo. Alternatively, there are back-roads from the Bass Highway that you can take if you are travelling from Devonport.

Cost

Tassie Devil
Tassie Devil © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

For your $28 per adult (16+), $15 per child and $25 per concession, you’ll receive access to the zoo including its free barbeque facilities, playground and jumping pillow. You could also opt to pay $17.50 per child for a lovely catered birthday party (minimum group sizes apply). I highly recommend paying the $20 extra for an animal encounter! There’s also a café and a gift shop or you can bring your own food and fun. It’s not a cheap day out for a family but it is one that you’ll remember for a long time. I have not yet forgotten the sound of a Tassie devil eating a chook!!! I have many pleasant memories too and I look forward to returning to Tasmania Zoo in the future.

 

Enjoyed the read? Read more about my travels in Tassie’s north, north west, midlands or central highlands. Travelling further afield? I’ve also traversed Tasmania’s east coast, south and west coast.

Quamby Estate Golf Course

Traversing Quamby Estate
Quamby Estate Golf Course
Quamby Estate Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I’m not a golfer. I do have a hit from time to time, usually when I’m 100% certain that no one is watching! If you want to know about the golf course’s features (which include Scottish-sand bunkers) or tricks for conquering challenging holes, my apologies. However, if you are interested in Tasmania’s heritage and the splendid setting of Quamby Estate Golf Course or are thinking of perhaps visiting the course for the first time, read on!

Hole 4
Hole 4 © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I have been to a handful of Tasmania’s golf courses. I’ve toured glorified paddocks (which was a lot of fun!) and gorgeous courses that left me (internally) screaming “get me out of here!” due to the faux-genteel clientele. Quamby Estate Golf Course is quite different. For one, the people are friendly. The main drawcard for me, however, is the quiet stateliness of the course.

Views of the Great Western Tiers
Views of the Great Western Tiers © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Quamby Estate Golf Course has views of rolling fields, the Great Western Tiers and Ben Lomond. On the property, the original Georgian estate house and outbuildings have been well maintained. You can stay in the estate house, making the golf course attractive for stay-and-play visitors. The original avenues of trees have been put to good use, regally lining the fairways. You’ll particularly enjoy the second hole, hidden behind a stand of trees, which includes teeing off over a lake! I didn’t mind being a non-playing partner in such a beautiful setting.

Quamby Estate
Quamby Estate © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Quamby Estate is an integral part of Tasmania’s history. Once, it was the home of the family of Sir Richard Dry, Tasmania’s first locally born premier. You won’t find interpretive placards anywhere but I can promise you that you’ll enjoy strolling through what once was the family gardens.

What to Bring

Quamby Estate Golf Course
Quamby Estate Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It goes without saying that you’ll need to wear weather-appropriate clothing, from the feet up. The wrong shoes will see you slipping over or sliding when you’re teeing off. I was just walking the course so wore sports shoes. Mr. Traversing Tasmania’s shoes are pictured above – he recommends golf shoes for grip and warm, dry feet. You’ll find that the pro-shop staff are very friendly and will kindly welcome you onto the golf course no matter what you’re wearing (jeans for me, oops!). If you’d like to look the part, wear collared polo shirts and cotton trousers/shorts/skirts (or similar).

Getting There

Driveway
Driveway © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll find Quamby Estate Golf Course about 5 minutes’ drive from the rural town of Hagley. From Launceston, drive north on the Bass Highway for approximately 25 minutes. Turn left when you see signs for Hagley, then turn right onto Hagley Station Lane (and right again onto Meander Valley Road B54). From here, follow signs for Quamby Estate (the golf course is on the estate). If you’re travelling south from Devonport, follow signs for Hagley. Turn left onto B54, following signs for Quamby Estate.

Cost

Quamby Estate
Quamby Estate © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

You’ll pay $20 for 9 holes or $25 for 18 holes (twice around the course) which is very reasonable. There is a pro-shop onsite (housed in a shipping container!) from which you can hire clubs. You can buy a Quamby Estate Golf Course membership for $465 (full members) – a social membership is $395. For current prices, see Quamby Estate’s website. Enjoy a classy day of golf!

Staying a while? Nearby Hazelbrae Nut Farm is gorgeous (and delicious) and (seasonally) the Rupertswood Farm Crop Maze is not to be missed. Further afield, you’ll find lots to do in the midlands, north and north-west of Tasmania.

Poatina Power Station

Poatina Power Station
Poatina Power Station
Poatina Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Poatina Power Station. What an incredible experience! As you approach by road, marvel at the views of the Great Western Tiers. Board a bus. Descend to the power station through an underground tunnel. Find yourself in a 1960s time capsule. Admire the engineering, the monstrous turbines, and the feat of creating electricity.

Artwork
Artwork © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

I was not expecting interior design in a power station. In the mid-1960s, when Poatina Power Station was built, aesthetics was clearly a priority! A myrtle bannister runs the length of the station. A commissioned artwork keeps time on the tiled back wall. The walls of the generators are painted bright red. Brass trim on the floor plates signals a time that was just a little bit classy. Some of the machines even have original control panels.

Traversing Poatina Power Station
Traversing Poatina Power Station © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

It’s not all about the décor though. Step onto the floor plates near an operational turbine and you’ll feel the power of it as it turns below you. Study the original drawings of the turbines and of the station. Look three floors down to the water beneath you. Ask one of the staff about what it’s like to work on the turbines, just above the water, in a noisy cavern. Admire the parts on display, including a selection of giant spanners and a turbine.

Generators
Generators © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The wonderful thing about Poatina power station is that it takes advantage of the lie of the land. From a 5.6km headrace tunnel in Great Lake above, through 1.8km of giant above-ground pipes, water falls 150m to the Poatina Station Turbines. Gravity does a lot of the work. In simple terms, the water hitting the turbines at speed causes them to spin, which creates electricity through a series of energy conversions (potential to kinetic to mechanical to magnetic to electrical).

What to Bring

Turbine
Turbine © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Safety gear is provided by Hydro Tasmania but you’ll need to wear a long-sleeved top, long pants and sturdy, covered-in shoes. It was quite warm in the power station. When possible, it is kept at a constant temperature in order to keep the machinery running smoothly so you probably won’t need a jacket. You aren’t allowed to bring food, water or other personal belongings. You should bring your phone for photo-taking, however, there’s no phone reception down there.

Getting There

Entry tunnel
Entry tunnel © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Poatina Power Station is about a two-minute drive uphill from Poatina Village. From Launceston, head south through Longford and Cressy. Keep heading south, following signs for Poatina. I absolutely love driving on the road towards the Great Western Tiers. What a view! From Hobart, you can take the highway through Bothwell before descending to Poatina. You’ll have spectacular views of the midlands.

Cost

Control panels
Control panels © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The lovely thing about Tasmania is that there are many free community events. Hydro Tasmania’s tours of Poatina Power Station may only happen occasionally but they are free and good quality. Keep an eye on Hydro Tasmania’s website and social media pages for more information about upcoming open days at power stations across Tasmania.

Read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s midlands, north and south.

Mole Creek Caves

Traversing Tasmania, Mole Creek Caves
King Solomons Cave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

How do you cool off on a hot summer’s day? Go to a place where the temperature is a cool 9°C year-round, that’s what. A place where straws, stalactites and glow worms are suspended above your head. Go where calcite crystals have grown in the dark over many, many years. Mole Creek Caves provided a magnificent refuge today, but our visit involved much more than just escaping the heat!

Mole Creek Caves

Both King Solomons Cave and Marakoopa Cave were discovered in 1906. King Solomons was found by two men chasing an unlucky wallaby. Marakoopa was found by two boys. A few years later, both caves were open to the public for tours. You can still see the oil burner used to light King Solomons Cave (which has left its inevitable mark on the crystals).

Stalactites, King Solomons Cave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

King Solomons Cave is a compact gem. When our guide turned on the lights, looking up to see stalactites was a breathtaking experience! King Solomons Cave contains a variety of magnificent calcite crystal formations, winding passageways and a stunning larger chamber. Here, you can see the original entrance to the cave and the oil burner. We even saw a Tasmanian Cave Spider, which is a very intriguing creature!

Marakoopa Cave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Marakoopa Cave is a much larger cave and has two tours. Both tours include the beautiful glow worms, which are found only in the Eastern states of Australia and in New Zealand. The first Marakoopa Cave tour takes you to its underground rivers and the second takes you up to the “Cathedral” formations. We took the second tour, which requires a higher fitness level due to having to climb a large number of stairs. We passed several magnificent flow stones, a swinging pendulite (perhaps the only one in the world!) and several magnificent shields. All of this was lit up by the brand new lighting system (replaced due to recent flooding). We saw glow worms in almost every chamber of the cave. Five glow worms had even arranged themselves in the shape of the Southern Cross, a very patriotic move on Australia Day!

Getting There

Mole Creek Karst National Park © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

The drive to Mole Creek Caves is an amazing experience in and of itself. Driving along the Bass Highway from either Devonport or Launceston takes you past several excellent food establishments and gives you a fabulous view of the Great Western Tiers. This view only improves as you drive along the B12 road to Mole Creek, passing boulder-strewn paddocks that are nestled up against the mountains. Both caves are located in the Mole Creek Karst National Park and both have fern glade walks near their entries (these are short but well worth doing). The turn off to Marapooka Cave and the main ticket office appears first and is clearly signposted. If you follow the B12 a little further, King Solomons Cave is the first turn to the right.

Cost

Marakoopa Cave © emily@traversingtasmania 2017

Tickets can be purchased from the ticket office near Marakoopa Cave or, via card only, from King Solomons Cave and you do not need a Parks Pass if you purchase a cave tour ticket. The cost for cave tours is currently $19 per adult ($15.50 concession) and $9.50 per child for one cave tour. See Parks and Wildlife for more information about prices. The cost is well worth it. Facilities have recently been updated (note that the toilets at Marakoopa Cave are now located at the ticket office, which is 500m from the cave) and the caves are such a unique experience! Further to this, extensive work has recently been done due to major flooding (Marakoopa Cave was closed for approximately six months). So, escape from the sun in summer and the wind in winter by going underground!

Read more about my adventures in Tasmania’s north here, or in the north west here.