Fauna Archives - Traversing Tasmania

December 1, 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum

Founders Lake © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Way back in mid-October, we visited The Tasmanian Arboretum. My only regret is that we didn’t spend more time there! What will you find? You’ll cross lakes and streams, watch for platypus, explore quarries, wander through groves of trees from different parts of the world and learn something of the history of the area. Make sure that, at some point, you climb up a hillside. The views are lovely!

You enter The Tasmanian Arboretum via the Japanese Gardens. This part of the garden is small but worthy of some attention. The bridges are beautiful, taking you over streams and between gorgeous plants. From here, walk to the café. You might not be hungry yet but it’s worth purchasing a few snacks to take with you as you will be walking a good distance! The café is also the place where you’ll be able to grab a map and pay your entry fee (if you didn’t have cash to put in one of the boxes in the car park).

Views from the Arbor © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

From here, head wherever you want to! The Tasmanian Arboretum is a sprawling park with themed areas to explore. Click here to view a map of the arboretum and its walking trails. We enjoyed walking the Lake Circuit and admiring the views back towards the lake from the Arbor in the Tasmanian plant section. Do take the time to climb up Lime Hill Lookout, again, for the views! You can even cross Founders Lake onto a small island.

Platypus and Bird Hide © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

A real highlight of The Tasmanian Arboretum is the chance to see a platypus. The volunteers in the café will be able to tell you where the platypus currently are most likely to be spotted or you can take a chance (and find shelter!) in the Platypus and Bird Hide at the edge of the main lake. You’re more likely to see platypus in the early morning or at dusk so plan your visit accordingly.

History

Views from Lime Hill Lookout © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I wasn’t expecting local history to be such a feature of The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are two quarries to look at (or not, if, like Mr. Traversing Tasmania, you find disused quarries uninteresting!). The garden also boasts limestone formations (including small caves). If you have time, you can walk out to the Don River and an old railway track. We saw a family walking along the hand-dug tramway that runs parallel to part of the Lake Circuit and it looked to be a fantastic walk. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to follow them. Another reason for a return visit!

What to Bring

Traversing The Tasmanian Arboretum © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Bring your pram, your walker, your bike or your wheel chair because the main circuit around The Tasmanian Arboretum is a level gravel path. Fantastic! Note that, although it would be possible to take a bike off the main circuit and onto the smaller paths, bikes are restricted to the main circuit. If you are a person with a disability, you can even drive around the main circuit.

Public Barbecues © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re walking and want to explore the smaller pathways up the sides of the hill, comfortable shoes are a good idea. Always where weather appropriate clothing. You will want to bring (or buy from the café) some food and water too you’ll be visiting for a few hours at least, particularly if you’re pausing to watch for platypus. There are plenty of places to sit at a bench or table or you can bring a picnic rug. Public barbecues are available. You’ll find an amenity block near the entrance and a composting toilet a few hundred metres up the main path from the Platypus Observatory. If you wish, you can even bring your pooch (on leash) with you!

Getting There

Blossoms © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Tasmanian Arboretum is about 15 minutes’ drive south-east of Devonport. Head south on Middle Road (stop for a tour of Home Hill). Turn right in Spreyton onto Kelcey Tier Road. If you’re travelling from Ulverstone, follow the Bass Highway to Turner’s Beach and then follow the B15 and the C145 to The Tasmanian Arboretum. There are many twists and turns this way so drive carefully.

Cost

Look up! © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Entry to The Tasmanian Arboretum is for the bargain price of $5 per adult (children free). If you think that you’ll be visiting often, you can pay for a membership, which gives you free entry. The Tasmanian Arboretum is open from 9am to sunset each day. Enjoy your walk through one of Tasmania’s most interesting gardens!

There’s more to do in and around Devonport! Visit Home Hill, sail on the Julie Burgess, catch the Spirit of Tasmania to Melbourne or head further afield in Tasmania’s north west or north.

October 6, 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course

The Homestead from Hole 15 © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Dodging sheep poo while playing a round of golf probably doesn’t sound like fun but Ratho Farm Golf Course is fantastic. Disclaimer: I don’t play golf. I do, however, spend quality time walking various courses with Mr. Traversing Tasmania and I highly rate Ratho Farm.

A quality that Ratho Farm Golf Course has in bucketloads is entertainment factor. There’s poop to dodge, parts of the Clyde River to navigate, tricky holes to play and, of course, the wildlife. We visited in Spring when the lambs were newly born (or being born, as happened on our last morning there!) and it was lovely to have them as our golfing companions; the course is sheep-grazed in places. We saw a wallaby and heard a peacock.

Even if all the animals go into hiding when you visit, the course itself is enjoyably tricky. The par 70 doesn’t really indicate what lies ahead (the 5.373 km course length gives you a hint though!). What might seem at first to be a straightforward hole can bring you undone if you misplace your shot because you’re liable to land in some “rabbit scrape” (as is noted in the historic rules). Hole 15 is particularly challenging as you need to tee off cleanly to avoid the trees and the river (Mr. Traversing Tasmania succeeded on his second go!). You’ll also have to navigate over (or through) hedges in places. It’s a lot of fun to watch, if not to play!

Australia’s Oldest Golf Course

Teeing off near the Toilet.. — Teeing off near the Toilet… © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course begins and ends at the historic homestead. It’s a beautiful building. You can even hire hickory clubs to really feel part of the setting. When you tee off at the first hole, note the outdoor toilet with removable waste tray – ingenious! Ratho Farm is Australia’s oldest golf course, first created by Scottish settlers to the Central Highlands in the early 1800s. Just playing a round of golf here makes you feel like part of history.

Farm meets Golf Course © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

It’s easy to see why the Scottish Reid family chose this land for a golf course. The Clyde River meanders through the back few holes and gorgeous trees line the course. I also enjoyed the humble farming setting. Someone was burning off across the road, the farm next door had been freshly ploughed and cows and sheep created a chorus with the birds. Bliss! That said, some parts of the course were rough but this only added to the charm.

What to Bring

You can bring your own golf clubs or you can hire a set from Ratho Farm homestead. They even have hickory sets for hire if you’d like to really embrace the heritage of the course. Be prepared to scrape poop off your gear though so don’t bring anything too precious!! As always in Tasmania, be aware of the weather and dress accordingly. The Central Highlands can be very cold and at other times you can end up with a touch of sunburn, speaking from experience!

Getting There

Highland Views © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Ratho Farm Golf Course is located in Bothwell in Tasmania’s Central Highlands. You can take the scenic route between Launceston and Hobart via the Central Highlands and stop off for a round of golf. From Hobart, drive up the Midlands Highway, turning left at Melton Mowbray and following signs for Bothwell. It will take you just over an hour to reach Ratho Farm. Alternatively, drive south from Launceston via Longford and Poatina (or Deloraine via Miena), following signs for Bothwell. You’ll travel for over an hour and a half from Deloraine or just under two hours from Launceston. Whichever way you drive, the views are sensational!

Cost

You’ll pay $25 to play nine holes. The back nine are apparently easier than the front nine – take your pick! Alternatively, pay $40 to play all eighteen holes. You can hire a buggy and set of clubs for an extra $15. If you know that you’ll be there for lunch, organise this with Ratho Farm staff in advance as they are very obliging if given enough notice. Enjoy having a hit on Australia’s oldest (and quirkiest?!) golf course.

Interested in visiting Ratho Farm Golf Course? Read my sister post on Ratho Farm (coming soon!). Heading elsewhere in Tasmania? Visit historic Richmond (in the south), Woolmers Estate (in the north) or Stanley (on the north west coast – there’s a lovely golf course there) or have a round of golf at Quamby.

September 8, 2018September 8, 2018

Fossil Cove

Track start © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

At the end of a quiet street in the peaceful bushland south of Kingston is a secluded cove: Fossil Cove. There is no designated car park. A simple wooden sign post marks the start of the track. When we arrived, there was only one other car there. Don’t be fooled by the humble beginnings of your journey: Your destination is spectacular.

The track to Fossil Cove is easy to traverse, downhill. You’ll do the hard work on the way back up! There are well-defined stairs. Enjoy strolling through the bush and take time to explore the rock formations beside the track as you descend. I must admit that I rather like seeing the neighbouring properties too. What a place to live! In about fifteen minutes’ time, you’ll find yourself at the top of a staircase, staring out to sea.

Many delights await you. There are rock shelves and pools to explore, shells to find and an archway to walk through at low tide to a neighbouring cove. If you enjoy a spot of fishing, there are fish to be caught. When you sit down on one of the rock shelves, don’t be surprised by what lies beneath you.

Fossils

It’s easy to understand how Fossil Cove got its name. You’ll see for yourself the varied, intricate, multitude of fossils imprinted on the rock shelves. I could spend a long time admiring them. Fish, shells, from eons ago. Look up at your surroundings too. You’ll see a tree, clinging to the clifftop. There are views of the River Derwent, the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island.

What to Bring

The walk to Fossil Cove is a short one (approximately 45 minutes return) but do wear sturdy shoes as the track can be muddy. You never know how long you’ll stay exploring so bring some water and a snack. Check the tide times too. Unless you’re prepared to get very wet and walk on slippery rocks, access through the arch is limited to (very) low tide. Leave your usual beach paraphernalia behind and enjoy a different kind of waterside experience!

Getting There

Blackmans Bay is a 15-minute drive south of Hobart’s CBD via either Taroona (the scenic route) or the Southern Outlet. Once you’re in Blackmans Bay, head south on Tinderbox Road until you reach Fossil Cove Drive. When you reach the end of the cul-de-sac, park your car beside the road and begin your descent to the majestic Fossil Cove.

Cost

Fossil Cove is one of Tassie’s delightful freebies. Pay in kind by staying on the track, taking your litter away with you and leaving the cove’s contents behind for future visitors. Remember to take lots of photos! It is a truly remarkable place.

Nearby attractions include Taroona’s Shot Tower and, if you have a spare day, Bruny Island. Explore Tasmania’s south, east coast, midlands or central highlands or, further afield, north, north west, and west coast. Happy traversing!

September 2, 2018September 2, 2018

Waterworks Reserve

Upper Reservoir © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll find Hobart’s main water supply at the base of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You might think that this area would be protected by locked gates but this is not the case. The Waterworks Reserve teams with life. Why do Hobartians visit their local water supply? For the views, the walking tracks and the picnic sites, of course! Constructed in the 1860s, the reserve is also of historic significance.

When we visited the Waterworks Reserve, it was a gloriously sunny end-of-winter day. The grass was green, the gums drank in the sun and the mountain stood, ever-present, in the background. Blue skies, pools of water, lots of picnickers. It was a lovely sight! No matter what the weather though, you’ll enjoy the views of the bushland and of kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Once you’ve taken in the scenery, it’s time for a walk.

Walks

Historic Walls © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

There are several walking tracks that commence at the Waterworks Reserve. If you’re up for a challenge and are prepared with food, water and appropriate clothing, take a longer hike uphill. The easiest of the walks takes you around the upper reservoir. It allows you to escape the crowds of picnickers and see the reservoirs from a different perspective. Start your walk from Site 10 (at the end of the road). Here, you’ll see the historic stone walls of the reservoir. Walk into the bush, following the track and you’ll experience some of the local flora. Perhaps you’ll even see some of the fauna too! Mr. Traversing Tasmania saw a bandicoot. From here, you’ll reach a cross roads. You can either continue walking around the lower reservoir or you can pass between the reservoirs. Whichever path you choose, the final part of your journey will be along the shore, back to your starting point.

There are a few treats for you along the shoreline. If you have young ones with you, stop for a play in the playground (near the middle amenities block). Further along, near Site 9 (and another amenities block), a historic building has been turned into a museum. I enjoyed reading about Hobart’s watery past! You’d need a good 20 minutes to read all the displays or you can just enjoy looking inside the building.

Reserved Sites

Hidden Picnic Table © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The Waterworks Reserve is also a favourite spot for locals to celebrate birthdays or have a picnic. I’ve attended many a birthday party on its shores, including some of my own! Even though it was winter when we visited, all of the sites were in use, including those without shelters. You can reserve these sites by contacting the Hobart City Council. For free, find a spare picnic table or use one of the barbecues near the reserve entrance. We even discovered a picnic table hidden in near a creek bed behind a bridge. Gorgeous!

What to Bring

Through the trees © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Wear weather-appropriate clothing, particularly if you are out in the elements (not in a hut). Sturdy shoes will allow you to comfortably undertake the walk, no matter how muddy the track is. Food is a must too. If you have time, picnic like a local by bringing the barbecue tools, a blanket and a good book.

Getting There

The Waterworks Reserve is about a 10-minute drive from Hobart’s CBD on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Follow Davey Street south out of the CBD until you reach Romily Street. At the end of Romily Street, turn right onto Waterworks Road and look out for the entrance to the reserve on the right-hand side of the road. There’s plenty of parking on site. The largest car park is adjacent to Site 9. Drive carefully as there are usually children on the road.

Cost

Picnic area near Site 9 © emily@traversingtasmania 201

The reserve is open every day of the year, with 24-hour access available to pedestrians. For vehicles, gates open at 8am and close at 4pm during winter (9pm during daylight savings time). You can book sites by phoning the Hobart City Council. For up-to-date prices, see the council’s website. If you don’t need a site (shelter and/or a barbeque), visit for free and enjoy a lovely time in the picturesque foothills of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Enjoyed the read? Visit more of Tasmania’s south. Alternatively, head further afield to the west, north, north-west or east, or to the midlands or central highlands.

August 5, 2018

Liffey Falls

Locals love Liffey Falls. Are they the grandest waterfalls in Tasmania? The widest? The tallest? The longest? No. There is something incredibly captivating about Liffey Falls though. You’ll have to head there yourself to see (and hear!) what I mean.

What you’ll love most about Liffey Falls is that there are plenty of falls to see. I had forgotten how arresting the small cascades and two main falls are. The track takes you up close and personal with the falls at several stages and the sight and sound of the rushing water is breathtaking.

You’ll also enjoy the surrounding scenery. Through the trees, you can glimpse views of the Great Western Tiers. The rainforest itself is also rather lovely, with plenty of native flora (and fauna, if you’re there at the right time of day) to see. Meander Valley is beautiful and I always enjoy the drive out, even if it’s a bit rough (read more below!).

Liffey Falls - up river — Liffey Falls – up river © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

The walk to Liffey Falls is, as Goldilocks would say, just right. You’ll meander through rainforest on well-maintained tracks. Most of the track takes you right up to the river’s edge. The falls happen in many stages, leading up to the most impressive section at the end of the track. On top of that, you can safely say that you’ve been for a walk but you won’t be utterly exhausted at the end of it. That said, the hike back up isn’t necessarily easy! You might wonder, on your way down, why there are so many seats beside the track. On your way back up, you won’t be wondering anymore! The walk should take you approximately 45 minutes (return).

What to Bring

Picnic Shelter © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

I may sound like a Nanna but I always carry a backpack with food, water and basic first aid supplies and I have never regretted it. Sturdy shoes will get you through the mud and weather-appropriate clothing will allow you to enjoy your walk in comfort, if not style. Don’t forget your camera – there are many lovely photos to be taken. Note that we had no phone reception in the reserve, despite being with a carrier with excellent coverage in Tasmania, and that there are some items that you cannot bring into the reserve, including pets and bicycles. If you’re planning on having lunch in the reserve, there are gas barbecues, picnic shelters, an amenities block and drinking water available near the car park.

Getting There

If you’ve always relied on Google Maps to get you places, you’ll be in a spot of bother. From Launceston, Google Maps sends you through Bracknell. This is a lovely route with stunning views of the Great Western Tiers BUT you’ll eventually find yourself wishing you were in a 4WD. At one point, Google Maps also tried to send us to the Lower Car Park. No thank you! Instead, head to Deloraine and take the A5/Highland Lakes Road, following signs for Liffey Falls. You will have to drive approximately 4 kms on unsealed, narrow road but it’s a much better option than the complimentary massage and headache you’ll receive travelling the other way! The trip will take you about an hour and twenty minutes’ drive. Once you arrive at Liffey Falls, there’s plenty of parking.

From Hobart, you can either drive via Deloraine or Bothwell. Again, Google Maps will try to mislead you by sending you from Bothwell to Poatina. Instead, head to Miena and again take the A5. The route via Bothwell is a very scenic but is treacherous (sometimes closed) in icy/snowy weather. If it’s not wintery weather, it’ll take you about three hours to drive via Bothwell and Miena to Liffey Falls. I would allow more time as it’s lovely to stretch your legs and explore the central plateau.

Rainforest © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Do be aware that the access road from the A5 to Liffey Falls is suitable for cars only (not buses, trucks or caravans). If you’re in a bus or caravan, park at the Lower Car Park, accessed via Gulf Road from Bracknell (not Deloraine). You’ll have to take a much longer walk to the falls on a track that isn’t maintained as regularly but I can promise you that Liffey Falls are still worth the effort!

Cost

It is wonderful that many places of natural beauty in Tasmania are able to be visited free of charge. You don’t even need to purchase a Parks Pass to visit Liffey Falls State Reserve. You can also enjoy the complimentary barbecues, drinking water and toilet facilities. There are camp grounds at the Lower Car Park too. Make sure that you take all of your rubbish with you and that you respect the wildlife by driving slowly and carefully from dusk till dawn and by keeping human food for humans. Liffey Falls is certainly a refreshing place to spend a morning or afternoon!

Enjoyed traversing Liffey Falls with me? There’s more to explore in Tasmania’s nearby north, north-west and central highlands.

July 29, 2018December 4, 2018

Lake St Clair

Lake St Clair is beautiful. Snow-capped mountains to behold, crisp air to breathe, still waters to stand beside and gorgeous forests to explore. We did a network of short walks (larmairremener tabelti, Watersmeet and Platypus Bay) that form a fairly level 4.7km looped track.

larmairremener tabelti © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

No matter what your ability, you should be able to do at least the first part of the walk. You can choose to reach Watersmeet either via the main track or via the larmairremener tabelti track. The main track is wide and flat but the larmairremener tabelti track showcases the area’s unique fauna. You’ll also find interpretive panels and artworks that commemorate the Tasmanian Aboriginal people of the area. The second route also takes you alongside a stretch of the river, which is very peaceful.

All roads lead to the churning roar of Watersmeet. I wasn’t expecting the sights and sounds that awaited us. Two rivers meet to form one. I could have stood on the bridge and watched the seething waters for quite some time but Mr. Traversing Tasmania was keen to get going!

Barge wreck © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

Platypus Bay was our next stop. You’ll have views of the lake and, if you’re lucky, of a platypus too! The best times to spot a platypus are early in the morning or in the evening – the closer to dawn and dusk the better. There are hides on the track that will allow you to see the platypus without being spotted by them, as long as you are quiet. Keep walking onwards and you’ll find a lakeside beach and a wrecked barge. This provides a lovely opportunity for photos of Lake St Clair.

What to Bring

Views to ferry and Pumphouse Point © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

If you’re planning on platypus spotting, particularly in the late afternoon, remember that you may need a torch. Bring a head torch rather than relying on your phone as, if you’re anything like me, your phone is probably renowned for being close to flat at just the time you need it to be fully charged! Even though you are only travelling a short distance on relatively easy terrain, no one should set out on a bush walk without food, water, basic first aid supplies, sturdy shoes, clothing that suits the season and a map. You’ll need waterproofs on rainy days, warm clothes in winter and sun protection in summer. Grab your map and register your walk at the Visitor’s Centre, which is also the start of the walk.

Beach near campsite © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

In the Visitor’s Centre, you’ll also find a gift shop with some supplies for bush walking and an interpretive display of information about the area. It’s a welcoming space. There is also an amenities area and a cafe next to the Visitor’s Centre. If you’re planning on camping at the lovely site by the lake’s edge, you’ll be pleased to know that the amenities area has a drinking water tap and a sink for washing dishes.

Getting There

Lake St Clair is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both Launceston and Hobart. Allow at least three hours to complete the drive as the roads can be hazardous depending on the weather and time of day. If possible, arrive before dusk to avoid unwanted encounters with the many wild animals that live in the central highlands. If you have to drive after sundown, take it very slowly and carefully, for the sake of your vehicle as well as the native wildlife. Follow signs for Lake St Clair and you’ll find the Visitor’s Centre is at the end of Lake St Clair Road (C193).

Cost

Bridge to Shadow Lake track © emily@traversingtasmania 2018

You’ll need a Parks Pass to enter Lake St Clair National Park. These are available for purchase at the Visitor’s Centre and online. Tourists should purchase a one-day pass for $12 per individual or $24 per vehicle. If you’re a local or you plan to visit multiple National Parks during your Tasmanian holiday, the Parks and Wildlife Tasmania website shows you more options. Parks and Wildlife do a wonderful job of preserving, managing and providing interpretative information for our National Parks so you can rest assured that your money is being well spent! Enjoy your walk in the stunning Lake St Clair National Park.

From Lake St Clair, you can visit more of Tasmania’s central highlands. Alternatively, head west, south, north or down to the midlands. Looking for somewhere to stay? Read my article on nearby Pumphouse Point.